By Valentina Lubomirski
  • Copy link to share with friends

Beyond the diamond-pointed stone facade of Fortezza da Basso in Florence, Italy, leading fashion industry professionals and celebrities arrive in style. It’s a sunny yet windy winter morning. As a result, long coats of wool, leather, and feathered puffers trail behind visitors. Photographers and press stand with their cameras ready. Guests in Manolo Blahnik’s and Gucci leather footwear head toward the entrance. It is the first day of this year’s Pitti Uomo street style phenomenon. Classic Italian suits and custom tailored garments mingle with innovative streetwear, creating a variety of styles that dominate the scale from trendy to traditional.

Florence doesn’t officially have a fashion week. However, twice a year the city welcomes a spectacle of style and taste. At the centre of the high fashion flurry is Pitti Uomo. This trade show has made waves in Florence’s cultural activities, transforming into a social hub and bringing worldwide visitors into town to see the latest menswear trends.

The Pitti Uomo trade show in Fortezza da Basso is reserved for the industry. However a series of social events take place throughout Florence during the week. Each day, models, influencers and notable guests step out of their Renaissance hotels and walk the cobbled medieval streets on their way to events. High end fashion stores throughout town host cocktail hours for buyers and guests. In the evenings, music softly thumps from within historic villas in the hills as fashion brands celebrate their collection launches.

Pitti Uomo’s special projects, runway shows, parties and installations shed a glittering spotlight on Florence for international visitors.  Pitti Uomo is part of Pitti Immagine, a collection of fashion trade events happening throughout the year in Italy. Each February and June, Pitti Immagine hosts a menswear fair and showcases new collections from well established and emerging brands. The event has become unquestionably influential, presenting riveting conceptions and reinventions to menswear in recent years.

"

"Classic Italian suits and custom tailored garments mingle with innovative streetwear, creating a variety of styles that dominate the scale from trendy to traditional. "

Pitti Uomo’s first edition took place in 1972 in the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti. In 1982, the event moved to its current location in Fortezza da Basso, a fourteenth century fortress and exhibition centre today. Since then the show has drawn an international following of retailers, editors and industry professionals. However, the phenomenon of Pitti Uomo was the transition from an industry-exclusive trade show to a groundbreaking cultural experience for everyone in Florence.

Worldwide coverage shares Pitti Uomo street style media. The event has come to be known as a unique experience for visitors. During the week, well dressed fashion enthusiasts flaneur around town and outside red carpet barriers, hoping to catch a photographer’s eye. Those who cannot travel to Florence watch online as influencers share the daily outfits, parties and experiences. Attention on Pitti Uomo’s leading position in the menswear fashion industry has turned Florence’s biannual men’s fashion week into an unmissable cultural event.

Innovative Menswear

Inside the fair at Fortezza da Basso, a covered open space is replete with vendor’s stands, displaying their Autumn/Winter 2022 collections. As expected, visitors enter the fair in head-turning outfits, and many of them dismantle standard conceptions of fashion. Playful garment combinations and the cherry-on-top details that make an outfit pop were everywhere.

The trade show’s reputation for innovation shone this year, emphasising technology’s role in fashion, and sustainable practices. An area was dedicated to sustainable brands and environmentally conscious designers. In an effort to inspire change toward a sustainable industry, Pitti Uomo 2022 took a new initiative during this edition. A series of interviews with fashion innovators who strive to keep sustainable practices at the forefront of their work was launched. Interviewers asked N Palmer, Figure Decorative and Philip Huang, among others, about their approach to sustainable design, and the biggest obstacles faced in producing responsible clothing. The intention was to open a conversation among designers, visitors and customers about the future of sustainable fashion.

"

"In the evenings, music softly thumps from within historic villas in the hills as fashion brands celebrate their collection launches."

Street Style

The trade show fair isn’t the only attraction, however. The street style at Pitti Uomo is a fashion show itself. Visitors and fashion lovers around the Fortezza and Santa Maria Novella area look especially sharp during this week. Cozy outfits are made fashionable despite comfort taking over post-pandemic ready-to-wear fashion. Careful attention to the combination of textures between outerwear and inner layers highlighted classic Italian winter style with contemporary streetwear.

The street style influence of Pitti Uomo has influenced ladies and gentlemen alike. Standing at the counter in Piazza Repubblica’s Paszkowski Cafe, a lady takes off her cashmere-lined leather gloves and Louis Vuitton fabric face mask and reaches for a tiny espresso cup. At the door, a gentleman in a tailored navy coat and matching fedora carries his wife’s Bottega Veneta purse for her as they step into the sunny winter afternoon. Indeed, Pitti Uomo takes over Florence, producing a fascinating scene to visitors in the city.

Runways and Parties

Florence paints a beautiful backdrop to the varied events hosted by Pitti Uomo and other fashion brands. Several micro events hosted by special guests. In addition, curated installations and long awaited runway shows turn up throughout the week. In recent years Off-White, LuisaViaRoma and Salvatore Ferragamo have held shows during Pitti Uomo. They transformed some of the city’s most beautiful locations into runways. The iconic Piazzale Michelangelo made the perfect scenery under the stars for LuisaViaRoma’s runway show in 2019.  Pitti Uomo’s reach has come far, and women’s collections have been displayed as well. This show featured Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, and Alessandra Ambrosio, among other world renowned high fashion models. In addition, there was a special performance by Lenny Kravitz.

Two of Florence’s top fashion schools, Marangoni and Polimoda, have participated by hosting runway shows to display the graduating students’ final collections.

Thousands of high-calibre international guests drawn toward Florence for such events. The evening celebrations must match the tone of the week. In previous years, the historical Palazzo Corsini and Palazzo Pitti, as well as the iconic Manifattura Tabacchi have set the stage for Pitti parties.

This trade show has created a full swing in the city’s social and cultural substance. The outfits seen at Pitti Uomo, both on the runways and in the street, mark the beginning of the new seasons, regularly impacting worldwide trends. The event is known for the remarkable medley between classic menswear and unique street style. Runways showcase the top designers and summer time parties promise to be remembered forever. Pitti Uomo’s 102nd  edition in June 2022 for S/S 2023 is sure to set expectations high.

Valentina Lubomirski

Valentina Lubomirski is a writer, poet and artist. Raised in Brazil, Italy and the UK, traveling has shaped her work and notion of art, history, and global cultures. By practicing mindfulness in her experiences and writing, she explores the human will to travel, seek adventure, and learn from our world.