They say you cannot just eat good food – you must talk about the escapade after. A tale of a magical culinary experience must be told, and it is of the most tender beef one can ever have. The said marvel is to be found at Under Grain.
Under Grain is one of only five Malta’s Michelin star restaurants, and it is situated no place else but at the basement level of Rosselli – AX Privilege. Rosselli is an award-winning five-star luxury boutique hotel in Valletta, consisting of 25 designer rooms and suites. Located in a traditional 17th Century building, it is oozing with elegance and sophistication while taking guests on a journey back in time to the glorious Renaissance epoque and early Baroque.
The complex consists of three venues: Under Grain, Grain Street, and Over Grain. Grain Street is located on the ground level, and is also a Michelin Bib Gourmand accolade holder, delivering hearty street food and is served by the very same staff from the Under Grain Michelin Star Restaurant. The list of places to dine does not end here: guests are invited to admire the Valletta skyline with uninterrupted views at the Over Grain, that is on the rooftop level of the historic building, and doubles as a sun deck and a rooftop pool.
The shining star of Rosselli is Under Grain – with Chef Victor Borg running the show, who is a ‘household name in Malta’. With immense love ad passion for his work, Borg has worked with chef Gordon Ramsay at his very first restaurant Aubergine when it earned its’ second Michelin star. Chef Victor Borg has also worked in the two Michelin Star restaurant Bagatelle in Norway, and owned Mangetout that was voted the best overall restaurant in Malta for seven years.
The restaurant follows a theme of tailoring, honouring the craft of tailors and the amount of precision and skill the trade requires. With sowing machines, ties hanging from a bookshelf, a well-tailored suit on a mannequin and other themed details, the ambience sparks curiosity from the first moment of walking in.
And just like the craft of tailoring, cooking is an art form in itself: it requires that same precision and skill to deliver the exceptional fine dining experience everyone comes here to live through. The menu at Under Grain changes every season, therefore, every ingredient is kept to the freshest standards. Diners can choose from a specific but varied A La Carte menu, with three options for each course. A six-course tasting menu is also available with an optional wine pairing.
To start, guests are surprised with a triple amuse-bouche of different flavours to get the tastebuds going. After the guests are left wanting more, the experience starts off with Sopressini with clams, fricassée of peas and morels being one of the three started options. The delicate texture of the pasta and the perfect dance of pungent flavours is a journey to remember.
For the main course, prepare for the best Slow-cooked rump of Australian Wagyu beef you have ever had, with pizza of confit onions, Cantabrian anchovies, ox tongue, black garlic, and parmesan. Even Ernest Hemingway would have had difficulty to relay the tenderness and perfection of the steak in question. And for the finale, chef Victor Borg’s favourite baked and glazed white chocolate cheesecake with passion fruit sorbet will steal away every heart. Pair the sweet creation with a glass of the Maltese Guze Passito sweet wine to complete the course.
For the restaurant goers who prefer a more casual fine dining experience, Grain Street is a sublime choice. With a menu designed for sharing, it is a prime lunch destination in Valletta. Give the Mediterranean inspired cuisine a try with roasted wild seabass, cherry tomatoes, anchovies, and rosemary ‘aigre-doux’, or the flavoursome frittata of spaghettoni with pancetta and brie. Every option is cooked with care and apparent perfectionism and is full gusto and essence. Gran Street also prides themselves in the noteworthy wine list that is sold both by the glass and by the bottle: Côtes du Rhône “Heritage Vieilles Vignes” Ogier 2019 being just one remarkable example.
As a truly magical culinary experience, Under Grain, Grain Street and Over Grain will remain in the hearts of many. Whether it is a casual meal to share, or a luxurious fine dining evening, there is something for everyone.