By Madison Sotos
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In the place where it was born, whisky is often referred to as ‘the water of life’. This is a place where the air is crisp and fresh beyond belief. The land is green and rich in resources. Plus, the sky is often grey, home to fickle clouds that withhold and expel drizzles in capricious turns. This is Scotland. Amidst a backdrop of majestic hills, deep green forests, and perpetually moody skies, Scotland’s beloved national drink came into being. Now, visitors from all over the world gather in Speyside every spring to celebrate the earthy amber spirit at the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

With its bright, golden hue and the fiery sting as it travels down into the stomach, whisky has the power to heat the body and soul from the inside out. Thus, when the chill spring breeze floats inland off the North Sea, enjoying a dram is the best way to warm up.

River Spey, Speyside, Scotland

Huddled between Aberdeenshire and Inverness at the foot of the Highlands, the Speyside region boasts the highest number of whisky distilleries in Scotland. For this reason, there’s no better place to enjoy the beverage best-liked by Winston Churchill, Mark Twain, and Ava Gardner.

Every May in Speyside, blue hyacinths bloom and rare sunshine teases through the hovering mist. Also every May, the region’s distilleries fling open their doors to welcome guests of the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival. Even those usually closed to the public offer exclusive access to festivalgoers. Once there, attendees will enjoy six days of tastings and over 700 events dedicated to celebrating (and imbibing) the water of life.

Background

First launched in 1999, the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival aims to celebrate Scotland’s single malt whiskies and the people dedicating their lives to making it. From its founding to today, the festival has become the premiere whisky tasting event in Scotland. In fact, it is now one of the most renowned in the world. In light of this, it’s recently begun drawing guests from over fifty different countries.

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"With its bright, golden hue and the fiery sting as it travels down into the stomach, whisky has the power to heat the body and soul from the inside out."

The Water of Life: Whiskies and Distilleries

Perhaps the most elusive experience in the region, a tour of Speyside Distillery is nearly impossible to score year-round. The region’s namesake whisky-maker is typically closed to the general public. Yet, for six days only, this boutique distillery generously opens its doors to attendees of the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

Known as one of the most beautiful distilleries in Scotland, its stone façade and active waterwheel dating back to the 18th century liken Speyside Distillery to a fairy-tale cottage. The waterwheel adds to the distillery’s charm, but also serves a higher purpose. It harnesses water from the River Tromie, which is subsequently used to make whisky. Thus, to drink Speyside Distillery’s whisky is to drink in the Scottish wilderness, literally. Supposedly, their award-winning SPEY whisky was even beloved by royals. Legend claims that Lord Byron gifted a crate to King George III to celebrate his 1815 marriage.

Speyside Distillery blanketed in snow

Another prestigious distillery that often partners with the festival is Tamdhu Distillery. Tamdhu uses only 100% sherry oak casks shipped from Spain to mature their whiskies. As a result, their products have a deep butterscotch colour. Their rich, fruity flavours are redolent of citrus and berries. Past guests have been given VIP tours of the Tamdhu Distillery, Warehouse, and Cooperage. Here, water from the River Spey and malted barley combine to create the liquid gold libation.

Activities 

A love of whisky is at the heart of the Speyside Whisky Festival. This is a fact well-proven through the festival team’s ingenuity in connecting any and every activity back to the water of life.  For example, the land’s finest whiskies may be paired with toasted marshmallows and the warmth of a bonfire. Or perhaps they will be best enjoyed in a riverside tasting along the serpentine River Spey.

Enjoy the water of life along the waters of the Spey

On the Spirit of the Spey river cruises, guests sip warming libations in the crisp open air while canoeing through the Highlands. Oaky whiskies are paired with the aroma of Caledonian pine forests trailing in from Cairngorms National Park. For those who enjoy working for their rewards, there is the ‘Heart of Speyside Trail Run and Riverside Tasting’. Willing participants join a brisk run beginning at the cast-iron Telford Bridge and ending with well-earned alcoholic refreshments riverside.

Furthermore, the festival sponsors a ‘Whisky School’ for the intellectually inclined wishing to learn more about the malt-whisky-making process. Especially dedicated whisky enthusiasts will be lucky to snag one of the 16 spaces available in the school each year. Those who do will be well-rewarded with a diploma that is sure to impress.

Venues 

Apart from world-renowned whiskies and innovative events, the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival boasts a series of stunning venues. From the banks of the River Avon to luxury hotels, every setting is bound to wow its beholders.

Gordon Castle
Gordon Castle Walled Garden

One such venue is the Gordon Castle Walled Garden, an eight-acre garden that surges with vivacity and colour. The garden is home to 250 espalier fruit trees bearing plums, gauges, and pears. Plus, it boasts an orchard with every variety of fruit tree imaginable, including 100-year old apricot trees. Colours run amuck in their vegetable patch, littered with topaz orange carrots, deep purple aubergine, and vermillion red tomatoes. When enjoying a dram here, the whisky heating the back of the throat may be accompanied by the scent of fresh rosemary from the herb garden. Otherwise, hints of sweet caramel or full-bodied fruits on the tastebuds may mingle with the spiced vanilla aroma of blooming crocus.

The impressive title of ‘Scotland’s Oldest Whisky Hotel’ goes to The Craigellachie, which also plays host to several festival events. Decorated in warm, neutral tones, it creates for the perfect atmosphere in which to relax by the fire with a potent beverage. The hotel is home to the world-famous Quaich Bar, which has 1,000 whiskies on offer, and offers unparalleled views of the sloping valley of Speyside.

Quaich Bar at The Craigellachie
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"Whisky is more than a buzzy beverage or a quick and tasty shock to the system. It is a direct rendition of Scotland’s beautiful wilderness and natural offerings, translated into something more easily bottled."

Where to Stay

When not imbibing the water of life or exploring the otherworldly landscapes of Speyside, guests of the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival will need somewhere to lay down their heads. The region has a plethora of luxury hotels tucked away within its bucolic hills.

Amongst these is the Dowans Hotel, a rejuvenated Victorian mansion formerly belonging to a Baron. At their bar, ‘The Still’, guests can choose from a range of over 500 single malt whiskies.  To line the stomach, try ‘57’, which serves only dishes made with locally sourced and seasonal produce.

Ruins of Auchindoun Castle

For those wanting to take full advantage of the medieval history of Scotland, the Castle Bothy and Castle Byre may be the ideal stay. These two separate units were formerly part of a barn at Parkhead Farm. Indeed, they are still surrounded by unspoiled farmlands, but have also received a few updates. Features such as underfloor heating and a wood-burning stove ensure the cosiest stay. However, the real draw is their proximity to the 550-year-old ruins of Auchindoun Castle. The lonely grandeur of the 15th century former Scottish stronghold adds to the majesty of the already ethereal landscape.

Whisky bottles along River Spey - the water of life

At the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival, it is easy to see why the national drink of Scotland is lovingly called the water of life. Whisky is more than a buzzy beverage or a quick and tasty shock to the system. It is a direct rendition of Scotland’s beautiful wilderness and natural offerings, translated into something more easily bottled. Bringing dedicated whisky-makers together with enthusiastic aficionados, Speyside acts as the ideal gathering place for everyone with an appreciation for the drink and the land that birthed it.

Madison Sotos

Madison is a travel writer from Washington DC currently based in Edinburgh, Scotland. She has enjoyed extensive travels, primarily throughout Europe and is a lover of the arts and the outdoors. She is also partial to fine vegetarian cuisine and enjoys sampling local wines and spirits.