By Eibhlis Gale-Coleman
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“Negotiate a river by following its bends, enter a country by following its customs,” a Cambodian proverb tells listeners. And, at Phum Baitang, you can luxuriously immerse yourself in Cambodian customs, architecture, cuisine, and culture. Across 20 acres of native rice paddies and greenery, traditional Khmer villas wait for your arrival. Breathe in. Breathe out. Inhale the lingering scent of the fresh lemongrass growing across the property. Guests will find an off the path holiday where Cambodia’s traditional customs are upheld and flawlessly blended with creature comforts at the Phum Baitang.

On the outskirts of the addictive clutches of Siem Reap’s centre, the Phum Baitang promotes a slower-paced life. Situated deep within its private lands, the property offers a blend of centrality and rural living. And, only 20-minutes from Angkor Wat, the hotel is an idyllic stay for guests wishing to explore the famed Angkor temples complex.

A man in a white shirt and with a hat cycles along a wide path. Cambodian plant life and native trees line the sides of the path.

Phum Baitang is built on old farming land. At the centre of the property sits the 100-year-old farmhouse – which now welcomes guests as the Sunset Lounge, with cocktails and ultimate refreshment comforts. However, for Phum Baitang, life as a hotel began in 2015 with the help of designers AW2 and Arnaud Zannier. Homage and history are themes much adhered to within the realm of Phum Baitang and beyond into the wider city. Siem Reap’s Angkor Wat is over 1000-years old, seemingly freezing the rest of the city in time with its conserved heritage.

Walking into the resort, 45 private villas of choice greet you. True to Khmer architecture, each villa sits on stilts, with traditional bamboo-woven walls and characteristic wooden features and framing. Better still, guests can unwind in their private pool or stretch out on a day bed on their own terrace.

The traditional interior of a lodge at the Phum Baitang, Cambodia.

Twenty-five villas feature a private terrace for guests’ exclusive use, while 20 include a private ‘plunge pool’ – perfect for cool relief from the Cambodian heat. All villas come with the latest amenities, striking the delicate balance between luxury and a traditional aesthetic. For music lovers, the integrated sound system and Bluetooth connectivity are points of appreciation. While, alternatively, the LCD TV and mini-bar offer the ideal combination for a relaxing movie night.

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"“Negotiate a river by following its bends, enter a country by following its customs,” a Cambodian proverb tells listeners."

The villa interiors are an architect’s heaven: picture high beamed ceilings and entirely aged-wooden constructions. Wicker seating and traditional comforts are spread abundantly through each villa, creating a home-from-home that you’ll never want to leave.

When it comes to dining, guests have two restaurant choices. At Hang Bay restaurant, guests can expect a wider range of international dishes – great for those with specific comfort food in mind. However, for traditional Cambodian food, choose the Bar Phsar.

The Bar Phsar treats diners to expansive views over Phum Baitang’s gardens and paddies while offering delicious Cambodian cuisine. For a starter, perhaps a salad? The ‘Spicy Papaya Salad’ is served with ‘shrimp, local crab, and tonle sap dry fish’. Then, once you’ve worked up your appetite, look for the Khmer Corner on the menu. Diners have numerous traditional options, including ‘spicy beef with kale’, ‘pan fried sanday nom benh chok’, and ‘fried squid with green pepper corn’. To finish your experience, the ‘mango sticky rice with coconut ice cream’ is a firm favourite.

A chef at Phum Baitang smiles as he cooks a flaming dish.

Once you are comfortably full, head on to The Sunset Lounge and take a seat in a rattan chair. Here you can indulge in a vintage tipple or fine glass of wine as the sun sinks over Phum Baitang.

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"Breathe in. Breathe out. Inhale the lingering scent of the fresh lemongrass growing across the property."

Aside from sunset watching, there are plenty of ways to unwind and rejuvenate at Phum Baitang. The on-site Spa Temple offers incredible facilities and treatments – well-deserving of a half or full-day.

Whether you prefer to focus on muscle conditioning and growth at the fully-equipped fitness suite, take a class at the yoga pavilion, or head straight for the water, Spa Temple has the experience to suit varied preferences. For a swim, the outdoor pool is a stunning spot. 50-metres long, the infinity pool stretches out from the spa building to overlook the rice paddies and private greenery below. And, inside, a sauna and steam room provide the perfect chance to clear the senses and revitalise.

For those wanting an extra bit of luxury, you can book in for a spa treatment. With seven treatment rooms and expertly trained spa therapists and beauticians, you can relax in safe hands. The spa derives inspiration ‘from the medieval splendour of the Khmer Empire’ and focuses on the centrality of water in Cambodian culture to wash away impurities and cleanse the mind and soul. Treatments prioritise organic, locally sourced ingredients and products, creating as authentic and natural an experience as possible.

Two white-covered spa beds with rolled towels placed decoratively at the head.

The ‘Splendors Ritual’ is a popular treatment choice and aids circulation and reduces pains through a ‘centuries-old recipe of warmed herbs and spices’. Ground manually with a mortar and pestle, the natural ingredients are mixed with softening rose water and spread across the body. As your body is left to absorb the goodness, you can relax with a stress-alleviating scalp massage. To finish, you enjoy an ‘onkuin seed oil massage’, with the whole process taking place up to a glorious hour and a half.

Of course, you can take advantage of the Absolute Touch for feet and hands for beauty-focused treatments. These options include an 80-minute intensive therapy – working on cuticles, reshaping, polishing, and softening hardened skin. The Absolute Touch treatments are ideal for an intensive fix for those worn from all the sightseeing and travel.

The saying might be “When in Rome,” but here when in Cambodia, we need to recommend Phum Baitang. The Phum Baitang hotel allows visitors to immerse themselves in Cambodian customs and the serenity of rural living, all close to Siem Reap’s action and major attractions such as Angkor Wat. The property has a glowing reputation and has hosted the likes of Angelina Jolie since its highly anticipated opening in 2015. The Phum Baitang is one to book, not miss.

Eibhlis Gale-Coleman

Eibhlis Gale – Coleman is a freelance writer from the UK who is driven by a fierce love of adventure, unique cultural experiences, native animals, and good coffee. She is a passionate traveller and has explored Europe, Southeast Asia, North Africa, and Australia. Currently based between Leeds and London, Eibhlis balances life in the capital with frequent retreats back home to the Yorkshire Dales.