The Luxury Travel Magazine
The Luxury Travel Magazine
Lovers of the barley-bree will tell you that there is something a bit more special about whisky from Scotland than other spirits. Beyond its amber color that catches the light in a certain way as it swirls around the dram or the taste with notes of the peat which is burned in the malting process to halt the germination of barley; lovers of whiskey appreciate its meaning.
It comes from a rich heritage, from the lands around Scotland, and is only made from four ingredients – water, barley, yeast, and yes, time. But beyond that what affords whisky the admiration of legions, is the skill, knowledge, craftsmanship, and the tradition that takes place in the distillery. The head distiller is to be revered in these distilleries for his expertise in stewarding each release of whisky under their watch. One of the most respected master distillers in the industry is John MacDonald, who after 18 years and a storied career at the helm, has recently handed over his keys to the Balblair Scottish Highlands Whisky Distillery.
The Scottish Highlands are a special place where you’ll see rugged mountains, pristine rivers and lochs, sheep by the millions, and of course those iconic rust-colored Scottish cattle. It rains a lot there and the weather is often unpleasant. The people from this part of the world are stoic and proud and you’ll see them dressed in their itchy tweed clothing made to fend off the chill. Instead of complaining about the rain, they’ll tell you it just means there will be more whisky that year. It is in this place where Balblair was born in 1790. It is one of Scotland’s most esteemed distillers and the oldest working distillery in the highlands.
To tour the Balblair Scottish Highlands Whisky Distillery is to visit a hallowed place. It is located on the shores of the Dornach Firth, an islet to the North Sea, and surrounded by farmlands, rolling hills, and lush greenery. The distillery is made of rough stone walls with a four-story high red smokestack at its center. For hundreds of years, whisky has been produced there. The distillery’s age-old charm is evident in every corner, from the sturdy stone walls to the original wooden beams. Walking through these buildings, visitors can almost feel the centuries of whisky-making history that have taken place within their walls. To walk the cobble passages only further cements one’s admiration for the distillery that has produced barrel after barrel of whisky since the Victorian Era.
The tour offers an in-depth look into each stage of the whisky-making process. From the malting of barley followed by visiting the fermentation tanks or washbacks where they’ll see, smell, and even hear the yeast consuming the barley’s sugars to produce the first fermentation or wash. From there, the next step is the distillery rooms to see these two-story high copper pot stills where the wash is heated to form steam that rises to the long neck of the stills and descends as liquid. It is fascinating to see the clear and highly potent 80% alcohol flow in a rushing river through the glass windows of the spirit safe.
The next step is to place the new make spirit or, what we would call moonshine, into casks where it will sit for at least three years before it can be called whisky. For 18 years, John MacDonald and his team decided when the whisky was ready to be released, as well as which cask to use. That is the significance of the barrel room as that is where time passes. Over the years and even decades, the maturation process takes place in that room, filled with rows of oak casks. John is quick to inform, that they are never stacked more than three barrels high as the height will impact the heat and conditions and thus varying the product inside.
Visitors can see and smell the barrels, which play a crucial role in developing the whisky’s flavor and character be it American oak or Spanish sherry casks, the decision of the distiller where to place the spirit will influence the final product. All of these decisions and processes contribute to the rich and complex flavors for which Balblair is known. The sight of these aging barrels, some marked with dates that span decades, underscores the patience and expertise involved in crafting high-quality whisky. This along with the entire behind-the-scenes look helps visitors appreciate the meticulous effort that goes into every bottle of Balblair whisky.
One of the highlights of visiting Balblair is the tasting experience. Guests have the opportunity to sample a selection of Balblair whiskies, often including aged expressions such as 12-year, 15-year, and 18-year-old malts. The tastings are conducted by knowledgeable staff who guide visitors through the flavor profiles and nuances of each whisky, making it a memorable and educational experience.
Balblair Scottish Highlands Whisky Distillery has consistently produced high-quality whisky for almost 250 years. For the last 18 of those years, it was led by their master distiller, John MacDonald. John MacDonald’s career in the whisky industry is a testament to his passion for the art of distillation. Spanning nearly 35 years, his journey has been marked by significant achievements and contributions, especially during his tenure as the distillery manager at Balblair.
John MacDonald’s entry into the whisky industry began at Glenmorangie Distillery, one of Scotland’s most renowned whisky producers. Starting as a warehouseman, he rose through the ranks over 17 years, ultimately becoming the Assistant Distillery Manager.
In 2006, MacDonald made a pivotal move to Balblair Distillery. His decision to join Balblair was driven by his admiration for the whisky produced there, a sentiment strong enough that he accepted the position without even reading the contract. This bold step marked the beginning of nearly two decades of tenure during which he would leave an indelible mark on the distillery.
As distillery manager, John MacDonald oversaw operations at Balblair for nearly 18 years. His leadership period was characterized by a commitment to maintaining high standards of production and his leadership in sustainability initiatives. Notably, he oversaw the installation of thermal vapor recompression (TVR) technology, which significantly improved the distillery’s energy efficiency. These initiatives not only reduced the distillery’s carbon footprint but also set a standard for sustainability in the industry. MacDonald’s expertise and passion for whisky made him one of the most sought-after brand ambassadors globally.
Commenting on his retirement, John said: ‘My time as Distillery Manager at Balblair has been a huge honor and a job that I have thoroughly enjoyed over the years. Balblair is an exceptional single malt whisky that I’ve been so proud to craft and represent over the years, following in the footsteps of a long line of makers going back to 1790. I want to say a huge thank you to the distillery team, past and present, for their craftsmanship, dedication, and friendship, with a particular mention to Assistant Manager Norman Laing, who is the best in the business and whose help has been invaluable. I also want to offer a warm welcome to David and wish him the very best of luck in the role. I’ve had the pleasure of working alongside him in the past few months and I know that Balblair is in very good hands for future generations.
John MacDonald’s contributions to the whisky industry have been widely recognized. He was honored as a Keeper of the Quaich, an accolade that acknowledges exceptional contributions to Scotch whisky. This recognition is a testament to his dedication and the high regard in which he is held by his peers. As MacDonald retired in May 2024, he left behind a robust legacy at Balblair. His nearly two decades of stewardship have left the distillery in a stronger position, both in terms of production quality and sustainability practices.
It was somewhere between the changing of the guards and a royal coronation. His successor, David Rogerson, who came from Speyburn Distillery, steps into a role that has been profoundly shaped by MacDonald’s influence.
Rogerson tells the story of his passion for whisky being passed down from his father who would share with his young son his admiration for the spirit and the heritage, craftsmanship, and prestige found in each dram. After a trip with his father to visit some of the finest distillers in Islay in his teen years, young David found his calling. His first job was at a pub, then after college at a craft beer company, all the while biding his time until he would get the chance in the big leagues and the world of whisky. His chance came at Speyburn and now the steps into the well-worn and large shoes of John MacDonald. His vision is to maintain the standards and traditions of MacDonald and his predecessors as well as to find his role in moving the brand forward. He plans to focus on sustainability as well as experimental expressions to continue to delight Balblair’s customers.
MacDonald’s career reflects a deep commitment to the art of whisky making and a significant impact on the industry. His stewardship of Balblair over the past 18 years was a job well done. His legacy will live on just as that of the master distillers before him have. He and his efforts are part of the Balblair heritage. Visiting the Balblair Distillery is an experience that those who appreciate whisky will cherish. There’s nothing like having a dram of your favorite spirit in the place where it began in decades past.
