By Ruby Conway
  • Copy link to share with friends

Suited and gowned, opulent ladies and debonair gentleman picnic on the sprawling grounds of the Glyndebourne estate. With champagne in one hand and strawberries and cream in the other, the 90-minute interval of a world-class opera performance stretches out before them. Collars ruffle and swish skirts dance in the mid-may breeze as the courtly crowd soak up the golden-hour hues. It is a picture of quintessential, ‘prim and proper’ Englishness: croquet on perfect grassy lawns, flawlessly trimmed hedges and blooming English gardens, all against the backdrop of sheep-studded, pastoral hills and chiming operatic notes.

Sited in the Sussex countryside, a stone’s throw from the English South Coast, the prestigious Glyndebourne opera house boasts a series of yearly performances. But none is more famed than their summer festival which takes place from May to August annually. The crème de la crème of the English high-society calendar, it has become something of a bourgeois summer tradition. A summertime day at Glydebourne comprises of a superlative theatrical opera performance, interspersed with elegant luncheons and genteel courtyard strolls. ‘Opera’s not a church, it’s a social event’ chimes the institution’s current Venetian director Damiano Michieletto, and he couldn’t be more accurate.

The grand, antiquated manor house of Glyndebourne estate and its adjoining opera house has been the sight of this festival ever since 1934. First conceptualised by partners John Christie and Audrey Mildmay, the Glyndebourne institution has since been passed down the family line. Firstly to George Christie in 1962 and in 2000, to the current festival chairman Gus Christie. With over 120 live opera performances every year, reaching approximately 150,000 people, the opera house has accommodated some of the finest musicians and directors worldwide.

"

"It is a picture of quintessential, ‘prim and proper’ Englishness: croquet on perfect grassy lawns, flawlessly trimmed hedges and blooming English gardens, all against the backdrop of sheep-studded, pastoral hills and chiming operatic notes."

From romance, to tragedy, revenge and farce, Glyndebourne has it all, boasting a variety of theatrical narratives every festival season, both traditional and contemporary. This year’s festival hosted a diverse performance programme: The Wreckers, Le Nozze di Figaro, La Bohème, Alcina, Don Pasquale and Poulenc Double Bill. In this dome of glossy woodbeams, operatic notes are beautifully amplified, the venue acoustics outstanding. From arias to chorales and coloraturas, all ring with a romantic charm at Glyndebourne. Lavish costumes and striking makeup abound, from period stockings and wigs to frilly Georgian frocks. The romance, grand theatrics and high emotion of any performance at this venue will enchant.

And in the elongated interval, there is an array of culinary options to partake in. Fine-dine in Middle and Over Wallop (their sister restaurant Gavin La Chapelle boasts a Michelin star) and enjoy a ‘three-course seasonal gastronomic experience’ lit by ambient Swarnovski crystal chandeliers. Or step into Mildmay and indulge in a pre-performance afternoon tea: all quaint china, tea stands and patisserie delights. Alternatively, lounge on Glynebourne’s lawns with a quaint and traditional English picnic basket, home-made or pre-prepared by Glyndebourne’s culinary experts. Crusty artisan bread, matured cheddar, British charcuterie, crudites, salmon and salads: the banquet spread out on a red-and-white chequered picnic blanket. Relish a crisp glass of English sparkling wine from Nyetimber, the fine wine partnered with the festival.

"

"A summertime day at Glydebourne comprises of a superlative theatrical opera performance, interspersed with elegant luncheons and genteel courtyard strolls."

Confirmation of its legacy, Glyndebourne has even been the subject of its Anthony Asquith’s 1955 film On Such a Night (1955). This cinematic short is a love letter to Glyndebourne itself: an America visits Lewis to see the South Downs, only to be swept off his feet by the Glyndebourne opera festival. Ladies with bouffant hair dos and poodle cuts, wearing red velvet capes and silk gowns, roam the eloquent grounds. The protagonist gazes in wonder at the courtly spectacle before him, transported to an aristocratic fairy-tale. He is even more enchanted by the opera itself, shot cinematically in all its glory. Falling in love from a distance, the performer ‘the new countess’ is the opera’s true vision for this man: an English rose in a large, billowing pink regency gown, bellowing her operatic notes. ‘The music still haunted me’, he comments post-performance. The vintage aesthetic reveals the iconic tradition of the festival in all its romantic wonder.

To experience a quaint English world from times of yore, step into Glyndebourne Opera festival. Be romanced and charmed by the gorgeous pastoral setting, the talented performers and composers, and all the gourmet culinary delights. Find yourself equally haunted by this outstanding opera experience.

Ruby Conway

Ruby Conway is an English culture and travel writer, interested in the ethical exploration of other cultures and their epistemologies. She finds inspiration in literature, history, architecture, film and food. Ruby’s wanderlust has lead her across South East Asia, Central and East Europe, collecting an array of unique experiences.