By Olivia Weaver
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Some individuals eat to live, while others live to eat. On the busiest, most stressful of days, eating while standing up or directly from the fridge can be a method of survival. However, one of life’s greatest pleasures can be found by tasting food that is almost too gorgeous to eat. Gourmands across the UK, and around the world, keep their ears pricked for the mention of up-and-coming restaurants serving the most innovative offerings of haute cuisine. etch. by Steven Edwards, a Michelin Plate restaurant, has been turning heads and salivating mouths.   

etch. by Steven Edwards is relatively new on the restaurant scene, yet despite the absence of a decades-long track record, it has proven to be a formidable force to be reckoned with in the UK. Situated in Hove, Sussex, etch. is a multi-award-winning restaurant, serving a seasonal menu of four, five, seven, or nine courses displaying an expert curation of locally sourced produce. Ink, a contemporary Speakeasy-style cocktail bar, can be found below the restaurant. The distinguished wine list featuring over 200 varieties to choose from celebrates Sussex producers. etch.’s take on modern British cuisine has earned the restaurant 3 AA rosettes, a Michelin Plate, and the 89th spot in 2022’s Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards – making it one of the top 100 UK restaurants to receive that recognition. It is the fourth time etch. has climbed to the top 100 and it is the only Sussex-based restaurant to make the list.   

Foodies may recognize Steven Edwards if they keep a finger on the pulse of the culinary world. He was one of the youngest winners of BBC MasterChef: The Professionals, slicing up the competition in 2013 at the age of 26. As a classically trained chef restaurateur, Steven continued down the culinary arts path with his creation of the company etch., which was backed by a local entrepreneur, Steve Barrey. In the early days, they set up pop-up restaurants across the country. After three years of sweet pop-up success, at impressive locations such as the Latymer, Blenheim Palace, and Nyetimber Vineyard – Steven struck edible gold when he discovered the perfect pairing for his first restaurant: Brighton & Hove met etch. Steven opened etch. by Steven Edwards, the soon-to-be Michelin Plate restaurant on everyone’s lips (literally), in March 2017.

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"At etch., rich yellow duck egg yolk is plated with buttered girrole mushrooms, nasturtium, smoked duck ham, and a side helping of toasted duck fat brioche. "

The most popular dish at etch. is the marmite brioche, served with seaweed butter. Marmite is arguably one of the most divisive and classically British flavors – famously, you either love it or loathe it. Now, patrons can even opt to carry this bread and butter home with them in a sleek black carrier bag. etch.’s open kitchen and bar is where the culinary and mixology magic happens. Guests are at eye level with the simmering action, as chef’s cook, plate, and prepare signature dishes. etch. prioritizes sustainability, with Head Chef George Boarer changing menus monthly, and even weekly for the sample tasting menus, to avoid overusing ingredients – and utilize fresh local produce when it’s in season.  

Vibrant colors are married with bold flavors to create enticing and aesthetically pleasing dishes. The restaurant truly shines in its approach to making so-called “boring” ingredients incredibly exciting. For instance, their exhilarating version of the classic breakfast staple – eggs and toast, or more affectionately known as “dippy eggs” in England. At etch., rich yellow duck egg yolk is plated with buttered girrole mushrooms, nasturtium, smoked duck ham, and a side helping of toasted duck fat brioche.  

etch. plays host to a revolving door of guest chefs, who work in the restaurant on a temporary basis. Recently, Nikita Pathakji, one of the latest rising stars to win MasterChef: The Professionals, was welcomed at etch. to contribute her Asian-inspired style of fine dining. 

Guest Chef Nikita Pathakji

Steven Edwards, Sam Weatherill, and George Boarer make up the culinary dream team at the core of the Michelin Plate restaurant’s success. The UK restaurant industry has faced monumental challenges in recent years, including the Covid-19 pandemic, Brexit, and the cost-of-living crisis. However, Head Chef George Boarer stands out as an unwavering bastion of strength for the team at etch., who rely on his mentorship. He has also been recognized as one of the UK’s 30 under 30 hospitality professionals in the Acorn Awards – a highly prestigious industry award for chefs. 

It’s clear that the restaurant’s success is due in large part to such a friendly and supportive team dynamic, with team members steadfast in their focus on driving the restaurant’s innovative approach to food forward. Steven Edwards commented: “George has grown as a chef and become a good friend since joining us in 2017 and along with myself and restaurant manager Sam Weatherill he is integral to the successful running of etch.” 

Restaurant Manager Sam Weatherill

Restaurant Manager Sam Weatherill is the brains behind the exquisite wine list offered at etch. He has carefully curated the wine list since the restaurant opened in 2017. Championing English, particularly Sussex producers, alongside lesser-known grape varieties and regions – Sam saw the fruits of his labor acknowledged when etch. was awarded the International Wine Challenge (IWC) Contemporary Restaurant Wine list of the Year 2023. 

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"The team at etch. has figured out how to capitalize on the Great British public’s army of taste buds, with chefs wielding kitchen utensils like tools of mass creation. "

The interior design and layout of etch. has been purposefully developed to create a lively, warm, and relaxing atmosphere where patrons can either slowly sip a cocktail, enjoy a midday meal, or celebrate a special occasion with champagne and a nine-course supper. Visitors of this particular Michelin Plate restaurant will notice striking artwork and antlers placed on the walls, visually lifted with comfortable ambient lighting. The private dining room and chef’s table, aesthetically influenced by world-class artist Magnus Gjoen, can seat up to 8 guests for a delectable five, seven, or nine-course meal served by their very own chef and waiter.    

Ink, the subterranean cocktail bar, was previously a tattoo parlor. Minimalistic, jet-black décor, interspersed with spatterings of neon artwork by Ben Slow culminates in a highly intimate space for guests. The menu has been tailored to offer interesting resurrections of classic cocktails, alongside brand-new concoctions. ‘Mi Dispiace Signor Negroni’ consists of Tom Cat Blueberry Gin, Etch Bitter Liquor, and Greek Yoghurt Wash. Non-drinkers can enjoy creatively named combinations, such as ‘Bumble in the Jungle’, a mixture of cherry, cranberry, raspberry, pineapple and star anise bitters, with sage and lime. Ink is an ideal spot for those who wish to escape the demands of the outside world for a little while, served by the safe hands of experienced mixologists. 

The team at etch. has figured out how to capitalize on the Great British public’s army of taste buds, with chefs wielding kitchen utensils like tools of mass creation. They could draw the line there and easily maintain the steady stream of accolades and awards that keep rolling in, proving the restaurant’s success within the scrutinizing eyes of the industry. However, this Michelin Plate restaurant has etched its place into the Brighton & Hove community, too.  

A firm fixture for the local staff it employs, etch. presents itself as an inspirational business model to diners and community members in equal measure. A restaurant that has not only survived, but thrived in the bubbling melting pot of boiling point conditions: the Covid-19 pandemic, Brexit, and the cost-of-living crisis. The world is watching etch. and it’s an exquisite feast for the senses. 

Olivia Weaver

Olivia is a British and American travel writer based in Cambridgeshire, England. Before settling in the UK, she experienced life in the US, Belgium, and Germany, which developed her desire to see the world. When Olivia travels, she loves discovering unique places in untapped locations, connecting with the local people, and eating exceptional food. She writes to inspire readers to cultivate their taste for adventure.