By Shannon Edwards
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The experience of dining at the Behind Michelin Star Restaurant is akin to watching a live theatre performance. But instead of observing a dancer twirl on stage, your eyes are glued to each of the restaurant’s six chefs, who dash calmly from one end of the kitchen to the next. You’ve watched them slice, dice, chop and stir while the low sound of lounge-style music hums in the background. Opened less than a year ago by chef-patron Andy Beynon, Behind is emerging as one of London’s finest Michelin starred restaurants.

The Behind Michelin Star Restaurant is a chef’s table restaurant tucked away at the end of Hackney’s London Fields and sources an optimal selection of fresh, seasonal and sustainable produce to create their fabulous seafood-focused tasting menu. Set in a simple yet stylish space, this Michelin starred restaurant is a must-visit for those keen on a rather unconventional fine dining experience. Here, guests get an insider’s view into a process that more often than not remains behind closed doors: the lively buzz of a restaurant kitchen at meal times.

Photo credit: John Carey.

Launched in October of 2020, the restaurant is Beynon’s first personal, self-funded venture. Prior to opening its doors, the talented, well-connected chef worked at some iconic Michelin starred restaurants, under chefs such as Claude Bosi (Hibiscus) and Phil Howard (The Square). Perhaps his most well-known stunt, however, was his role as development chef under Jason Atherton at Pollen Street Social. Given Beynon’s impressive background, it is unsurprising that Behind was awarded its first Michelin star after just 20 days of trading. This is among the fastest ever awarding’s of a Michelin star.

The chef’s table concept has been around for years, stemming from a longstanding tradition that saw at home chefs assuming an additional role when serving friends and family: the entertainer. In today’s contemporary restaurants, the concept is usually an invitation-only advantage for select clientele. However, this is slowly beginning to change. Beynon himself has innovatively adapted the typically exclusive, VIP experience into one that every patron can immerse themselves in when they visit Behind.

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"…just like those original at home chefs, the chefs at this restaurant are the entertainers too – serving up their creations and interacting with the customers with a friendly, professional demeanor."

Photo credit: Lateef Okunnu.

Sitting at the curved counter, diners have a full view of the kitchen that sits in the centre of the dining room. Guests are able to observe the chefs preparing and plating each and every dish. And just like those original at home chefs, the chefs at this restaurant are the entertainers too – serving up their creations and interacting with the customers with a friendly, professional demeanor. “For me, the service is as much a part of the meal as the food itself, which is why the entire menu will be served by us, the chefs. This is the chance for our diners to get a look “behind” the scenes of a busy kitchen,” says Beynon.

The interior design of the restaurant is best described as contemporary and industrial, yet cozy. The dining surface, a wide, curved counter trimmed with accents of black and copper, encircles the restaurant’s kitchen. There are 18 seats available, their plush, royal blue appearance adding a subtle and elegant pop of colour to the contemporary space. The industrial-esque atmosphere is topped off by visible piping and the sleek, suspended light fixtures which trickle from above, each warm yellow bulb encased in a glass orb.

Photo credit: John Carey.

Behind is open Tuesday through Saturday for one lunch sitting and one dinner sitting. Every guest is served at the same time. A fun element that the restaurant incorporates is offering diners the chance to choose whether they would like to see the menu before-hand or not. It is exciting to be spontaneous and go in blind – unaware of the elegant works of art that are going to be placed before you. And when they are served up, their visual and fragrant beauty will do all the talking.

Native lobster muffin. Photo credit: John Carey.

The restaurant features an eight-course tasting menu, with each dish as intricate, balanced and vibrant as the next. While the menu is altered seasonally, there are a few signatures which should be on your radar. One dish in particular stands out for us: the native Cornish blue lobster served atop an English muffin and dressed with yuzu, a Japanese citrus with a strong aroma. Another signature dish is Behind’s creatively plated mushroom ‘tea and toast’, which appears as if it has been constructed for the purpose of being a home for a petite forest fairy rather than your dinner. After a quick swig of their pre-dessert potion – spiced bramble sour topped with an apple skin foam – it’s time to wrap up with the delicate chocolate, salted pine and ricotta dessert.

Mushroom ‘tea and toast.’ Photo credit: John Carey.
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"Another signature dish is Behind’s creatively plated mushroom ‘tea and toast’, which appears as if it has been constructed for the purpose of being a home for a petite forest fairy rather than your dinner."

Patrons may also choose to indulge in the wine-pairing alongside the 8-course tasting menu, with the options ranging from classic Chablis to new world Grenache. Alternatively, the wine bar which sits adjacent to the dining area is another fabulously elegant space with an extensive wine and cocktail list perfect for that pre or post dinner drink.

‘Chef’s cocktail’ – spiced bramble sour with apple skin foam. Photo credit: John Carey.

While many chefs might have felt it unfair to be reviewed so soon after opening, chef Andy Beynon’s outlook was the complete opposite. Beynon maintained that Behind was doing well at the time that it was being considered for a Michelin star, and will only continue to grow and succeed as time goes by. Behind is an enjoyable change of pace within London’s busy, crowded restaurant scene. It is a cozy space where patrons can retreat and enjoy exceptional cuisine and wine while observing a sort-of performance before them: an open, unconcealed view of the restaurant’s small team of chefs working in the kitchen to make the experience the best that it can be.

Shannon Edwards

Shannon Edwards is a freelance writer and visual storyteller based in Durban, South Africa. Having been captivated by her personal travels around South Africa and Europe, Shannon’s editorial focus now centers on creating inspiring written and visual travel content, with a particular focus on the great outdoors, eco-tourism, wellness travel and oenotourism.