By Shannon Edwards
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La Dolce Vita is the iconic 1960s film directed by Federico Fellini that captures the essence of the Italian phrase meaning “the sweet life.” Fast forward to today, and the sweet life can be found tucked away in a fabulous hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. During the day guests can be found lounging around the pool while occasionally taking swigs of their Aperol Spritz. And when night falls, it is time for a romantic candlelit dinner on the terrace, perfectly positioned against the backdrop of the Portofino Bay. These are among just a few of the experiences that await you at the Belmond Hotel Splendido.

Perched on a rocky hillside in the picturesque village of Portofino, the Belmond Hotel Splendido is one of Italy’s most exclusive coastal resorts. The five-star hotel features postcard-perfect views from its luxurious rooms and suites, as well as two fine dining restaurants and a host of fantastic facilities. This, along with the exceptional old-school service from a loyal team of staff, and a guest book brimming with signatures from royalty and celebrities alike, make the Splendido an iconic choice of accommodation on the Italian Riviera.

A hotel is always that much more exciting when it has a story. Belmond Hotel Splendido is no exception, with a history dating all the way back to the 16th century. Originally a Benedictine monastery, the building was eventually abandoned by the monks after countless raids by Saracen pirates. Having purchased the building in 1901, it was Ruggero Valentini who transformed the property into the enchanting hotel that it is today. Stepping outside to gaze upon the view, Valentini gave this jewel of Portofino its name, exclaiming, “Splendido!”

Although the hotel opened its doors to guests as early as 1902, its true allure came about in the 1950s. Foreigners descended upon Portofino, eager to experience its natural beauty for themselves. In 1986, Hotel Splendido was bought by Orient-Express Hotels, only to be renamed Belmond Hotel Splendido in 2014 when the company underwent rebranding. Today, Belmond is renowned as one of the most exclusive hotel brands in the world, managing a vast range of luxury hotels, trains and ships, including the Venice Simplon-Orient Express.

Belmond Hotel Splendido has been the top choice of stay among royalty, rockstars, film stars and writers. Such guests form part of the hotel’s history, having played a major role in solidifying its reputation as one deeply admired by countless members of high society. Rows of black and white photographs hang in the La Terrazza Cocktail Bar, honoring various icons and past patrons such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor, Humphrey Bogart and Liza Minnelli.

Bar La Terrazza.

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"Stepping outside to gaze upon the view, Valentini gave this jewel of Portofino its name, exclaiming, “Splendido!”"

There is an understated elegance when it comes to both Portofino and the Belmond Hotel Splendido itself. Surrounded by the natural beauty of sparkling cerulean waters, lush green vegetation and a rugged coastline, the architecture and design of the hotel draws on such elements for inspiration. Looking at it from the exterior, the neutral-coloured four-story building subtly blends in with the hillside’s towering and interweaving trees, with flowers and foliage adorning its walls. The hotel overlooks the Portofino Bay and harbor, filled with potentially the biggest luxury super-yachts on the Mediterranean.

If those are not enough to convince you that Portofino is a magnet for the rich and famous, the red, white, black and yellow Ferrari’s flanking the hotel’s entrance surely will. Guests pass through a gallery featuring a display of white flowers before being greeted by a smartly dressed doorman. The lobby and reception area is elegant and traditional, as is achieved through the pastel colour-scheme, glossy black and white marble floors, arched doorways, and a range of antiques and floral-themed décor. Other nods to Portofino’s scenic landscape include the hotel’s incorporation of natural elements such as wood, stone and marble.

Belmond Hotel Splendido houses 70 spacious rooms and suites spread across four floors. The hotel is well-positioned high above the bay, and so almost all of the rooms feature sea views from a private terra-cotta-tiled terrace or balcony. The doors leading to the terrace from both the bedroom and the living space can be completely opened up, allowing for an immersive indoor-outdoor experience whereby guests may feel as if they are hanging right over the edge of the bay. This also allows for a constant flow of fresh coastal air and illuminates each suite in bright natural light during the day.

Most of the rooms feature fresh white painted walls and subtle accents of pastel grey, green and pink. However, some of the more contemporary rooms such as the exclusive Presidential Suites and Dolce Vita Suite are more vibrant, with botanical wallpapers, pops of turquoise, pistachio and plush velvet upholstered furnishings. King size beds are draped in luxurious linens and feather duvets. ARTIQ was entrusted with curating a charming floral and coastal art collection of over 100 pieces for the hotel.

The Presidential Suite.

While all the rooms and suites are up to standard, those seeking out a more exclusive, secluded stay should opt for either the Presidential Suite or the Dolce Vita Suite, both of which offer incomparable views, ample space, two separate living rooms and garden access for private dining. The marble bathrooms are as lavish as the bedrooms, with the toiletries provided by luxury Italian brand Bottega Veneta. This, along with the welcome amenities – a bouquet of flowers and bottle of sparkling champagne – speak back to Belmond Hotel Splendido’s reputation for providing world-class service.

The marble bathroom in the Dolce Vita Suite.
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"There is an understated elegance when it comes to both Portofino and the Belmond Hotel Splendido itself. Surrounded by the natural beauty of sparkling cerulean waters, lush green vegetation and a rugged coastline, the architecture and design of the hotel draws on such elements for inspiration."

Ristorante La Terrazza is the hotel’s main fine dining destination, and offers seating in either the elegant indoor dining room or out on the terrace overlooking the bay. The dining room sees cozy wrap-around cream-coloured sofas and floor-to-ceiling French windows. For breakfast, a small breakfast buffet is available, featuring croissants, cold meats, cheeses and fruits. Guests may also wish to order the likes of an eggs benedict from the restaurant’s a la carte menu.

Ristorante La Terrazza.

The dining room leads out onto the terrace. A dinner to remember is one that is had here. The view from the outdoor setting is taken to new heights at night, with sequin-jacketed pianist Vladi setting the mood, as well as candlelight and lantern-like lights across the bay ushering in a romantic atmosphere. La Terrazza is led by Executive Chef Corrado Corti, who sees his creative process with food in much the same way a designer would with clothing. Chef Corti starts with a basic sketch and works in his own memories in terms of particular scents and tastes.

Chef Corti, along with the professional waitrons decked out in chic white jackets and black bow ties, serve up a seafood-focused menu of traditional Italian dishes. One of the restaurant’s Ligurian specialty dishes is the Trenette Avvantaggiate – a basil pesto pasta served with potatoes and green beans. It Is Chef Corti’s recommendation that the dish be paired with the Ligurian Vermentino, a dry white wine with a subtle herb-infused aftertaste. Another signature dish is the Spaghetti alla Elizabeth Taylor – the Hollywood star’s favourite pasta made with fresh tomatoes from San Marzano, Sorrento and Pachino. Other must-tries include the crunchy king prawns served with tarragon mayo and the thyme-spiced lamb with celeriac and coffee fondant.

The hotel’s cocktail bar is situated just off the lobby, and is decorated with hand-painted murals of flowers. Head down here for a pre-dinner cocktail and watch on as bar manager Jeff Zanotti crafts you his famous zesty Oro della Liguria made with monkey gin, St Germain elderflower liqueur and lemon juice. Guests can also enjoy “Aperitivo time” on the terrace, sipping on the hotel’s signature basil Mojito’s or classic Italian Negroni’s as the sun sets.

Bar La Terrazza.

The terrace gives way to a narrow walkway leading down to the hotel’s gardens and pool. The heated outdoor saltwater pool sits right at the edge of the hillside, allowing you to soak up the warm water while taking in the landscape. Directly adjacent to the pool is the Pool Grill Restaurant, where guests can enjoy a light lunch or made-to-order crispy pizza.

For those in dire need of a bit of Portofino pampering, there is a small spa on its second floor, as well as a gym and sauna. The spa utilizes some of Italy’s finest natural products, including Mei and Oway, and even offers outdoor couple massage treatments in its charming sea-view garden gazebos. If you have brought along a furry friend, you can rest assured that they will be pampered too – the Splendido spa offers spa treatments for pets.

Such excellent on-site facilities are not all that Belmond Hotel Splendido has to offer, though. The hotel has its own private motorboat, the Chris-Craft Corsair 36. With ample space for up to eight guests, the boat is available for daytrips around the Gulf of Tigullio. Additionally, the hotel provides a free shuttle service down to Portofino and to their intimate sister property, Splendido Mare. Guests are free to make use of the facilities at Splendido Mare, as well as pay a visit to their fine dining restaurant, DaV Mare and gelato shop, Gelateria San Giorgio.

Belmond Hotel Splendido is a classic example of Italian glamour. Its stunning location, spacious and luxurious suites, fine dining and fabulous facilities have undoubtedly kept famous faces coming back for more. However, part of its allure also comes down to the well-versed staff, some of whom have been at the hotel for 20-plus years, who treat every guest of the Splendido, famous or not, the way they should be treated: as a VIP.

Shannon Edwards

Shannon Edwards is a freelance writer and visual storyteller based in Durban, South Africa. Having been captivated by her personal travels around South Africa and Europe, Shannon’s editorial focus now centers on creating inspiring written and visual travel content, with a particular focus on the great outdoors, eco-tourism, wellness travel and oenotourism.