By India Gustin
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This precious subterranean morsel is often referred to as black gold, the edible kind. Truffle is a super ingredient that inspires delicacy, which is meant to be prepared with the same farm-to-table precision as the rest of a refined tasting menu. John Leverink and his team of chefs subtly demonstrate why this establishment is placed right in the middle of a truffle orchard. From the restaurant itself to the luxury cottages and even the chance to go truffle hunting with experts, Beltana Farm really immerses itself when truffle season comes around.

Canberra is the capital city of Australia, filled with insightful museums and luscious green parks. Within one of its gorgeous suburbs in Pialligo, foodies can indulge in a dining experience one can only describe as carefully innovative, located within an 800-tree truffle estate. nBeltana Farm is one of the restaurants on the gastronomic scene that takes the seasons and fresh produce seriously. It is no surprise therefore that when truffle season starts, the team of chefs come up with some of the most creative ways to incorporate this black gold. 

Owners, Alice and Doug O’Mara, bought the land a decade ago. The journey to harvesting their first truffles was painfully slow, with their first real successful harvest only eight years after first acquiring the land. After that, it was all about turning their blueprints for the estate into a reality. When it came time to decide who would run the restaurant, they had two reputable names in mind, John Leverink and James Souter.

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"By giving guests the opportunity to subtly experiment with the variety of sapidity and textures, the meal becomes a comfortable and easy affair"

The restaurant was designed by award-winning designer, Terry Ring. As you step into this impressive pavilion, your are immediately met with a regal stone fireplace which becomes the focal point of the interior. That is until you get distracted by the floor-to-ceiling windows which unveil the endless truffle trees surrounding the building. The simple dining room layout with tall beams and minimalistic decor marries well with the timeless yet indulgent dishes.

The taster menu begins with an eloquent selection of starters. The potato damper with macadamia dukkah is flavorful on its own but can be taken advantage of by blending it with the other starters. Similarly, while the whipped brie and burnt onion dip has a strong kick, it marries well with the warmth and delicate notes of the dukkha. As far as starters go, Beltana showcases its innovative techniques by serving a sharer plate of truffle and cuttlefish salami. By giving guests the opportunity to subtly experiment with the variety of sapidity and textures, the meal becomes a comfortable and easy affair. 

The truffle cauliflower and gruyere croquettes were effortlessly flavorful, demonstrating how Beltana Farm resorts to traditional and simple ingredients while elevating the flavor palette. The same can be said for the potato and carrot galette, a careful swirl gently placed on a buttermilk and sage sauce. The wagyu that followed was silky and its delicate flavor paired nicely with the side dish of caramelized, lemony brussel sprouts. 

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"The entire course of the meal dips in and out of the district truffle notes, ensuring that this otherwise delectable ingredient doesn’t become overpowering"

One of the standout dishes from the mains was the barramundi. The fillet lay on top of a bed of sweet, slow-cooked baby tomatoes while it was blanketed with a mix of green beans and fennel. It is one of the those dishes which you can’t help but try to fit each component onto one forkful. The entire course of the meal dips in and out of the district truffle notes, ensuring that this otherwise delectable ingredient doesn’t become overpowering. 

This doesn’t mean that the truffle journey ends there, however. Their truffle ice cream with caramel is not only light but the perfect way to come full circle on such an inspired tasting menu. Whilst exploding with flavor, the signature sharp truffle taste is nicely controlled by the creaminess of the ice cream. So much so that their truffle schnapps actually pairs nicely together for the digestif. If too much truffle just isn’t your thing, their Anzac biscuit cheesecake with raspberry, honey and whiskey details is just as good a way to finish the meal off.  

Beltana Farm is noticeably a haven for truffle lovers during the season. However, this detail alone does not take away from the fact that the team of skilled chefs know how to transform mediocre ingredients into a refined culinary experience. The team somehow manages to create multiple intensities within the truffle palette, perfectly curating the dishes, desserts and even digestifs to not become overbearing. The location, decor and added daytime activities ensures that guests can venture into a credible farm-to-table affair.

India Gustin

India loves to share worldly experiences in the most authentic way possible. For her, the best way to do this is to seek adventure, appreciate cultures and prioritize storytelling in her work. She intends to recount her experiences through the eyes of curiosity and creativity. Not only does she want to bring the reader along with her, she hopes to inspire them to travel in bona fide.