By India Gustin
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There are only a few scenarios which allow you to have a fine dining experience with the possibility of spotting a shooting star. In a renovated riad within the Marrakech Medina lies Pepe Nero, an Italian-Moroccan fine-dining restaurant which allows customers to do just that. Its exterior courtyard is surrounded by water details, wooden-beam arches and intricate lanterns, creating a perfectly rectangular cutout to dine alfresco. From an Italian starter to a Moroccan main, guests must make a tough choice between two equally gourmet yet technically different cuisines. 

Just a five minute walk away from Djemââ El Fna square in the vibrant Marrakech Medina lies Pepe Nero. An Italian restaurant in Morocco may spark hesitation — embracing the local cuisine is something which likeminded travelers thrive for. However, Italian gastronomy is not the only area which the chef spotlights. Pepe Nero offers two menus; one Italian and one Moroccan. Whilst the Italian menu is more elaborate, Chef Robé uses his culinary experiences to revisit the gastronomic delights that Morocco has to offer: “We strive to always be precise in our gestures, attentive to the oven, skilled with knives, a sharpened sense of smell, an eye to the market.” 

The beautiful design and haute cuisine come together in harmony at Pepe Nero. The open area in the style of a traditional Moroccan riad complement the decor, creating an atmosphere which only enriches the dining experience. Historically, it is thought that a riad was adapted from a traditional Roman villa, reserved for only the wealthy among society. The entire structure is inward-focused; a detail which leads some to believe it has to do with Islamic beliefs. Historically, many of the buildings don’t include many windows which ensured that women could enjoy their lives without watchful eyes from outside. Therefore, the open-air courtyard — typically centered in the middle of the building — allows plenty of natural light inside. Using said type of design, Pepe Nero adapts this detail to create a well-rounded Moroccan experience, all whilst serving sophisticated Italian dishes.   

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"We strive to always be precise in our gestures, attentive to the oven, skilled with knives, a sharpened sense of smell, an eye to the market"

Whether or not guests decide to indulge in the local Moroccan cuisine, everyone is guaranteed to experience an array of flavor pairings. The Italian starters range from a traditional eggplant parmigiana to a more sophisticated salmon tartar. They precede an array of specialities such as a king prawn risotto or home-made butter and sage tortellini. Chef Robé transforms the unassuming veal agnolotti with roasted meat sauce into an explosion of flavors. The herbs and ingredients used are balanced enough to not overshadow the veal, leaving it to be the shining element of the dish. 

The tandem Moroccan selection is short but sweet. Traditional salads as starters and hearty couscous or tajines follow. With either menus, the selection of wines work to complement all the dishes. Experiences are made just that much better when the small things are taken into consideration. Instead of having a bottle of wine in the middle of a two-person table, it is placed on a smaller side table, a detail which keeps the dining affair clean and organized.

The walk up to the restaurant is unpretentious, leading guests down the narrow streets of the old town in the Medina. An assuming sign ensures that visitors are in the right place. The bland exterior changes with the first step inside , opening up the place with intricate Moroccan interiors. To the left, a shallow but long pool stretches in the middle of the courtyard, making up the more coveted seating areas of the restaurant. Only a handful of tables are scattered around the riad-style courtyard which creates a perfect atmosphere to dine under the Moroccan sky. Inside, the wooden beam ceilings elongate above the additional seating. There are stained glass windows which outline the perimeter, enhancing the restored Moroccan floor. All these fine details guarantees a refined dining experience, whether or not guests dine inside or outside. 

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"Chef Robé manages to create an atmosphere which strictly reminds guests that they are well within the walls of the old town, yet they can experience a refined culinary affair which stretches far and wide"

The Riad Al Moussika is located within Pepe Nero. Around the courtyard, on the upper floors, are where the rooms are located. From large rooms, to smaller and more intimate places, guests can venture around the riad through windy staircases and small passageways above the restaurant. Some rooms have private access to their own rooftop terrace which overlooks the energetic dining atmosphere from down below. They are all decorated in a warm and cozy fashion, some including small office areas with comfy armchairs and library-style bookshelves along the walls. All of them, however, are fitted with grand bathrooms. The walls, ceilings and beams are all decorated with fine and intricate Moroccan-style details. Some rooms house two-person showers whilst others hold large and round tubs, perfect for after a candlelit dinner under the stars, located right below. 

Deep inside the Medina, zig-zagging through the streets of the old town, guests can find themselves in a dual between innovative Moroccan cuisine and Italian gastronomic dishes. Pepe Nero merges the intricate decor which Morocco offers with the sophisticated dishes of Italy. Chef Robé manages to create an atmosphere which strictly reminds guests that they are well within the walls of the old town, yet they can experience a refined culinary affair which stretches far and wide.

India Gustin

India loves to share worldly experiences in the most authentic way possible. For her, the best way to do this is to seek adventure, appreciate cultures and prioritize storytelling in her work. She intends to recount her experiences through the eyes of curiosity and creativity. Not only does she want to bring the reader along with her, she hopes to inspire them to travel in bona fide.