School-themed eateries, dining in the dark and black cab cafes. Today, London’s dining scene is peppered with gimmicks, as restaurants vie for the attention of a crowd who’s seen it all. While some strike success, others fade into insignificance with the next new craze, lacking the real substance to retain their customers. However, there’s one restaurant whose eccentricities have endured the capital’s fickle ways, sustained by the backbone of high-class cuisine. Rather than tacky or overwhelming, Bob Bob Ricard Soho is endearingly flamboyant, with tabletop toasters, candy-pink waistcoats and that famous ‘press for champagne’ button.

Located minutes from London’s Piccadilly Circus, Bob Bob Ricard has become a staple of the Soho scene. Opened in 2008 by Leonid Shutov (known as Bob) and Richard Howarth, the name alludes to ‘Bob’ having invested twice as much money in the restaurant – a title silly enough to match the absurd indulgence behind its doors. Recognised for the decadence of both its menu and interiors, Bob Bob Ricard serves up classic English and Russian cuisine in a theatrical Art Deco environment. With a sister restaurant in the city and plans to open a third in Tokyo, the restaurant in London has acquired a cult-like following, composed of truffle-lovers, champagne enthusiasts and celebrity clientele.

In 1883, the Express d’Orient set off on its maiden voyage, offering high-class journeys at a time when travel could still be rough and dangerous. Today, a slice of the Orient Express can be found in the striking interior of Bob Bob Ricard Soho, where food is served in gold-accented booths, with royal blue chairs, tasselled curtains and sleek marble surfaces. Designed by David Collins, the restaurant flaunts a Gatsby-esque colour palette of blue, gold and crimson, treating guests to an extravagant refurbishment of the past.

However, unlike the original Orient Express, the peril at Bob Bob Ricard isn’t rugged roads or choppy weather, but resisting the temptation of the restaurant’s ‘press for champagne’ feature. The establishment is notorious for pouring more fizz than any other restaurant in London, and it’s easy to see why. Each private booth is equipped with a shiny button, encapsulating the restaurant’s advocacy of dangerous adventure and indulgence. Saving visitors the awkwardness of catching a server’s eye, a flick of the switch will trigger the sweet sound of ‘‘Ayala, Moët or Bollinger?’’ as pink-suited waiters come dashing with a refill.

Matching the restaurant’s eccentric interior is its equally decadent cuisine. Overseen by relatively new Head Chef, Tom Peters, the restaurant serves a signature menu of Anglo-Russian comfort food, assembled with traditionally sourced ingredients. If they’re feeling daring, visitors can begin the meal with a Russian vodka shot, served at -18˚C, or choose from Bob Bob Ricard’s flashy selection of caviar and oysters. The main menu is profuse in truffle and champagne – highlights include the Turbot Coulibiac, served with a champagne beurre blanc, and the Truffle, Potato and Mushroom Vareniki, a portion of rich Russian dumplings bathed in wild mushroom velouté. The Beef Wellington for Two is certainly worth a mention: a 28-day aged fillet dripping with beef jus.

The escapade doesn’t stop there – a legendary dessert menu has earned Bob Bob Ricard Soho special recognition within London’s dining scene. Particularly renowned is the BBR Signature Chocolate Glory, a perfect golden sphere doused in steaming hot chocolate sauce, as well as an equally dramatic Flaming Crème Brûlée, flambéed at the table. For an extra-intimate experience, guests can enjoy all three courses in the restaurant’s private dining area, a 16-seater room modelled on the Royal Dining Carriage.

With so much opulence, Bob Bob Ricard Soho could have easily bordered on gaudy or overdone. Yet, somehow, it manages the opposite, achieving a unique sophistication which leaves visitors wanting more. Distinctive cuisine, lavish décor and loveable quirks strike the perfect balance between elegance and absurdity, leaving guests with no choice but to suit up and embrace the ostentation.