For most of us, a brush with royalty is not something that happens every day.  The idea of encountering a royal such as a duke, count or even a prince, who can trace their family linage back for hundreds of years, is a big deal. Often these families have untold wealth, owning castles, farm lands, vineyards and  countless treasures. In the northern most part of Italy, in the small village of San Floriano del Collio , is where you’ll find a captivating and towering gentleman, who can trace his family back to the time of the medieval period. He is Fillipo,  Count Formentini of Cividale, and a day with him is truly an experience to cherish.

The Count can often be found holding court in his castle which  has been part of his family since the 16^th century. The fortified walls, towers and ramparts were once a stronghold guarding against  battles with the Ottomans,  the Hapsburg empire and were even a central figure in both the first and second world wars. Today it is surrounded by the beautiful vineyards of the Collio appellation, a region known for producing some of Italy’s finest yet hidden secret wines.

Count Filippo Formentini is a curious character. With all of his history, lineage and wealth as well as his imposing height (he is 6’4), he is somewhat of a gentle and unassuming type. Perhaps at his stage and status in life, he does not need to flaunt or be boastful and is self-assured without the need of pretense.  The count is often at his castle,  hosting numerous events or welcoming dignitaries and visiting delegations. There are countless weddings at the castle as well.   After all, what bride does not fantasize about a wedding with a castle as a backdrop, especially overlooking the fairytale like surrounding of northern Italy.

When he’s not holding court with his many visitors, the Count is happy to share his family’s history with guests, showing them around the castle. Inside the castle is a walk through the region’s history.  There are suits of armor, artifacts, family crests and priceless oil painting portraits of the counts and royals that ruled these lands over eons past. One area not to be missed is the library filled with ancient leather bound books and a treasure trove of the family’s special letters written to members of Europe’s prominent royal families.

Part of the historical impact of Europe’s world wars was that it redrew the border lines of many countries.  As a result, the San Floriano del Collio area, what was once Austria is now Italy, yet many of the culture and customs of Austria are still present. Many aspects of this region feel more Austrian than Italian from the appearance of the people as well as their dress, food and even language.  The count will share that his family’s history emanates from the Austro-Hungarian empire so as such he still sees himself as part of that heritage.

The chance to experience a taste of castle life goes beyond sightseeing with an indulgent dinner that is literally a feast fit for  king.  The Castello Formentini is regarded as offering one of the top dining  experiences in this region. The first thing that beguiles is the gravitas of the setting. Flags and coats of armor adorn the walls a while long tables traverse the room complete with candelabras that shine on plates emblazoned with castle’s family crest. The  haute table setting, and its occupants,  awaits the eminent seven course meal on which they will soon partake.

After the eyes have been impressed, the rest of the senses are next in line. The sound of sizzling beef as well as the accompanying aromas whet the appetite and allude to the pending feast.  This is not from the kitchen it is from the massive open hearth fire pit in the center of the room. As the chef works his magic with prime cuts of steak flame over the red-hot coals of the pit. And these are not just any cuts of beef or your basic back yard hamburgers, the king deserves his due which for tonight is a one kilo t-bone steak.

This is a destination dining experience where guests indulge over a few hours of samplings the chefs finest creations with plate after dish showing off his culinary prowess. The chef is Massimo De Belli who has worked at  the top Michelin rated restaurant throughout Italy. He brings his culinary dexterity to the fore with each meal served from with an extensive menu of haute northern Italian cuisine.  No perfect Italian meal is service without good wine and the restaurant at Castello Formentini,  is no exception. The wine list is overflowing yet one need not go beyond the appellation just beyond the castle. The Formentini family has been producing fine wines for hundreds of years so an option not to be missed is a wine pairing with the offerings from the family’s winery.

 

In times past, it would take days or more by horse drawn carriage to reach the castle, so where guests stay after a visit an important detail.  A short stroll away from the castle is the Foresteria Castello Formentini. It is a lovely Inn where today guests coming from a far for a castle wedding, for dinner, or those visiting the historical treasures and wineries of the area stay for a few nights.

The building is complete with many historical artifacts, and portraits just like you will find in the castle. It’s not nearly as ornate yet there are fun places to explore and none of the rooms are alike. The accommodations are comfortable with high end furnishings and wonderful views over the country side.  The Inn is run by a count as well and one of the Count Fillipo’s three sons, Alexander. He’s a young fellow and is gracious and welcoming to his guess.  The lovely rustic inn also serves a warm and delicious breakfast to start the day of exploring the Collio region.

There is so much to do and see in the area. There are countless wonderful wine experiences to have from visiting the local wineries and cellar doors. The local historical towns off Cormons, Civadale, or Gorizia are also a treat to explore.  Another special treat is to see the region from the sea and the Gulf of Trieste. In fact the count owns a historical schooner, once owned by Yul Brenner and Dan Marino, that is available for charter on the high seas.

Italy is a special place and its many regions are completely different and unique.  One place that offers an unforgettable experience is the Collio and northeastern Friuli region known for its cool climate wines, rich culture and, of course, visiting the small towns and castles such as San Floriano del Collio. VisitCollio is a newly launched company that brings all of these experiences together and provides personalized service for those wishing to visit the area. Count Filippo Formentini and his castle, restaurant and the hotel are one of many colorful  characters and experiences that makes this region oh so worth exploring.