On a bright and sunny autumnal morning, a walk along the canals of the medieval Belgian city of Bruges holds a special pleasure. The rise and influence of the city date back to the 11^th century, and at only 10 miles inland from the port of Zeebrugge (Flemish for ‘Bruges on the Sea’) it became a strategic location for the Hanseatic League of Northern European international traders. In the 12th century, the wool and cloth market, as well as a wool weaving industry, benefited from the shelter of the city’s imposing walls. By the beginning of the 13th century, Bruges was already included in the circuit of Flemish and French cloth fairs, but when the old system of travelling cloth fairs broke down, the entrepreneurs of Bruges set about innovating. They developed a new form of merchant capitalism, whereby several merchants would share the risks and profits and pool their knowledge of markets. By the end of that century, Bruges had become the main northern European link to the trade of the Mediterranean.

Overlooking the Sint-Annarei canal one finds the Van Cleef Hotel. It is a short five minute walk from the centre, yet in a quiet residential location. The building in its current form dates from the 1780s and was originally built as the home of the Counts and Dukes of the Van Cleef dynasty, industrialists and financiers to the Dukes of Burgundy. If this name sounds familiar, it is because, as well as the Van Cleef and Arpels diamond company, one of the dukes who lived here was the uncle of Anne of Cleves, the fourth wife of perhaps England’s best known medieval king, Henry VIII. The Flemish version of the German name Cleves evolved into Van Cleef.

The hotel’s entrance is set in a road behind the canal, although to appreciate the true elegance of the building, it should first be observed from across the canal on Verversdijk. The Van Cleef describes itself as a boutique hotel as it only has 17 guest rooms. However, with its high celings and impressive features, it possesses an imposing grandeur. The hotel is a family business, since 2015 owned and run by Frederik and Pascale van Haecke, aided by their son Arnaud.

Pascale is an interior designer by profession, and this shows in the hotel’s stunning decorative touches, and the fact that it has been lauded as Belgium’s Best Hotel Concept. On entering the front door on Molenmeers, greeting us in the lobby is the original 18^th century floor, patterned from blue stone and Carrara marble tiles. Vast classical sculptures and other intriguing features are found in unexpected locations. Leading off the lobby are an enticing conservatory and a lounge, cosy in feel but home to a grand piano. Rooms at the Hotel Van Cleef range from a Classic Double to Canal View suites, with a few rooms in each category described as ‘Hermès Collection’ or ‘Missoni Collection’, acknowledging the source of the décor and fabrics used. Utilising Pascale’s decorative flair, the family also owns a small castle outside Bruges comprising four guest rooms and extensive grounds, plus two houses which are rented out to guests, one in Gstaad, Switzerland and the other in Gordes, in the south of France.

Like many boutique establishments, the Van Cleef does not offer lunch nor dinner, only breakfast, comprising a choice of freshly made Belgian waffles, and a selection of egg dishes, plus a Continental breakfast. However, between 2.00 pm and 6.00 pm, it also offers guests an afternoon tea, of which it is rightly proud.  Afternoon tea, whether for guests or non-guests, is by prior reservation only. Frederick explained that guests find the offer of an indulgent afternoon tea after several hours exploring the streets of Bruges, “comforting and relaxing”, and this certainly holds true.

In winter, tea is taken in the attractive Green Room, adorned with a tightly packed collection of contempary artworks, and in summer it can b/e enjoyed on the hotel’s canalside terrace. A selection of black, green and herbal teas are offered, as well as a choice of coffee, all supplied by Javana Koffee and Thee, the best known tea and coffee supplier in Bruges.

The finger sandwiches are traditional English afternoon tea fare; egg mayonnaise with chives and lettuce, and smoked salmon garnished with cucumber. The fruit scones were accompanied by a choice of raspberry or apricot jams, plus a tangy crème fraiche. The patisserie was exquisite. It is baked each day and delivered by Painture, reputed to be the finest patissiers in western Flanders. The cakes consisted of a raspberry mousse, a ‘Misérable’ almond cake, a lemon tart and, as one would expect in the city renowned for its chocolatiers, a rich Samba chocolate mousse.

Echoing the the van Haecke family’s aesthetic dedication, all the chinaware is supplied by Marie Daâge of France, one of the rare maisons to offer fine Limoges porcelain tableware that is still 100% freehand painted, in keeping with the heritage of 18th-century French porcelain.

Walking back to the city centre along the canal, it was not hard to understand why so many memorable movies have been filmed in Bruges. Just a few doors away from the Hotel Van Cleef, on the canalside street of Sint Annarei, I passed number 22. It was here that many scenes in the 1959 classic, ‘The Nun’s Story’, were filmed. It starred Audrey Hepburn, who although considered Dutch, was in fact born in Belgium.

The great wealth of the city is still reflected in its wonderfully preserved buildings; its civic halls, Baroque churches, guilds or individual canalside homes of the merchants. With its network of cobblestone streets and canals, Bruges became known as the Venice of northern Europe. The city centre is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and in terms of accessibility, this magical place is located less than three hours by rail or road from both Paris and Amsterdam. And there’s more: this is the added attraction of Bruges being the home of some of the world’s greatest chocolatiers. In the city centre the seductive smell of freshly made chocolate wafts round every corner and the eye cannot ignore the windows packed with creamy truffles, crunchy pralines and juicy liquor-filled creations. Choco-Story, the city’s chocolate museum found on Sint-Jans Plein, brings the 5,500-year history of chocolate production to life in words, images and tastes, and explains how cocoa arrived in northern Europe from south America. There are over 1,000 chocolate-related objects on display. If this is all too sweet for your palate, just around the corner is their sister museum, this time paying homage to another famous Belgian export, French fries. The Friet Museum is located on Vlamingstraat and is worth a fun detour.

Belgium is well-known for the diversity of its beers, and Bruges is also without doubt a wonderland for beer aficionados. Beer has been brewed here since the 15^th century and there are many historic breweries dotted round the city.  Naturally there is a museum to this industry too, the Bruges Beer Experience on Breidelstraat.

Time spent exploring Bruges, whether a stand alone trip or an extension to a visit to Brussels, Paris or Amsterdam, will not disappoint.