Once you’ve set the Ten Commandments in stone there is always someone who wants to shatter the tablet. Those culinary commandments were made way back in 2004 when 14 Nordic chefs delivered their revolutionary culinary manifesto to the world, defining New Nordic Cuisine. Ten points proclaimed on purity, season, ethics, health, sustainability and quality.

But as time passed the once radical became the norm, the avant garde transitioned to the status quo. Even three Michelin-starred Noma, in Copenhagen, felt the need to close down in 2017 and reinvent itself as a Nordic village, driving the Nordic revolution ever onwards.

Now, in what you could call the Nordic New Wave, there are Nordic chefs who want to break the rules, to use ingredients from beyond Scandinavia’s cold shores. They want to reintegrate lemons, olive oils, peppers and sun-dried tomatoes from distant lands. In the generous spirit of democracy they want to take their food to the people.

Born five years ago, Uformel is the cool but edgy younger brother of Formel B, a mainstream Michelin-starred Copenhagen restaurant. But adventurous little bro, who has been travelling and learnt a thing or two, thinks that the New Nordics are taking themselves too seriously.

A cheeky logo, with the prefix U at a jaunty angle to Formel, pokes fun at staid big bro. Uformel shucks out stuffy formality, drains away poncey pretence and rinses holier-than-thou superiority. On top of all that Uformel takes the kitchen knife to inflated prices.

Cycle to Uformel in your jeans or better still cruise into leafy Byhaven on your micro-scooter. Dressing in fancy clothes won’t make the food taste any better. Appropriately, Uformel’s premises were once on the wrong side of the tram tracks, first a Strip Club, then a meat warehouse…

Butchers’ leather aprons, worn by the waiting staff, are a nod to the building’s heritage but Danish Designer DNA had to get involved. Today, the walls are polished taupe concrete. Bronze industrial outsize chandeliers, filament-raw, cast light onto the dark timbered floors and black-topped tables. A backlit, glass-fronted wine cellar, makes for a spectacular feature wall.

There’s something of the night about high-ceilinged Uformel with a soundtrack that ain’t bland muzak. It’s got a beat, identity and gets louder at the weekend when the cocktails are flowing. Mixologist Hardeep Rehal is Danish Cocktail Royalty.

On paper it ought to be an appealing formula for the millennials, especially as there is the theatre of an open plan kitchen, but all of Copenhagen was eager for change. Uformel pulls in a diverse buzzing crowd.

The four-course tasting menu, paired with wines, is a good introduction to Uformel’s “no dogmas” freedom. Though in no way do Uformel’s menus distance themselves from their homeland and seasonality. Small local suppliers are selected for their ethics and sustainability.

There is respect for Danish culinary history. Reminders of ice-hard winter fields and the frozen Øresund, the thin strait between Denmark and Switzerland. Pickled silver slithers of mackerel and smooth oyster cream are a history lesson in Denmark’s need to preserve summer’s plenty for winter’s austerity.

Forget memories of acidic pickled onions. The chef gently uses pickling as a technique to accentuate flavours rather than merely to preserve. Such is the subtlety that the sommelier’s selection of a crisp dry white Alsace wine retains its integrity.

Then a light Pinot Noir pairs with an intense grenade of flavour, a spherical lattice of sun-dried tomatoes wrapping prime Danish beef tartar. The old New Nordic chefs would shake their head at such Mediterranean heresy, such Latinate passion.

With every table burning a candle there’s a sense of hygge, certainly a feeling of lygge – happiness – as the diners relax into sliddersladder. That’s the Danish for gossip. Probably tittle-tattle about who has invested mega-Krone in a new sleek designer sofa. Slanderous suggestions of who has gone foraging for berries and nuts with someone else’s husband.

Talking of foraging – and again of pickling – a porchetta of lamb arrives topped with pickled mushrooms. Spring peas, macho and plump, almost meaty, are far removed from their emasculated mass-market frozen cousins. It is a dish paired with a magnificently robust Italian red.

Selecting dessert wines can be difficult but the sommelier takes care of that First World Problem with a sparking French rosé. It is neither too sweet to overwhelm Danish strawberries nor too brusque to detract from a delicate elderflower sorbet.

Long-live this counter-revolution. Uformel revives the adventurous Viking spirit, kicking against a New Nordic zeitgeist which had become introspective. Uformel’s hashtags say it all – #gourmet#friendly#comeandgetit.