“Glass of Champagne?” asked the British Airways lady as I settled into my seat. It was only breakfast time, but it seemed impolite to say no. After a highly efficient meet and greet service at London’s Gatwick Airport, I was soon on my eight-hour flight to St Lucia.

It can get a bit confusing. St Lucia was originally settled by the French in 1660, but as a result of battles with the British, it swapped hands fourteen times until 1814 when the British took final control. As a result, the official language is English but French-based Creole is widely spoken, cars drive on the left as in Britain but the town names are in French.

“There are no straight roads in St Lucia”, said George as we drove away from Hewanorra airport. He could have added that there are hardly any level ones either. Roads on this Caribbean island, with mountains rising to over three thousand feet, are more like those in the Alps. Numerous hairpin bends mean it can take two hours to get from one end of the twenty-six-mile long island to the other.

Home for my stay was Windjammer Landing, comprising hotel rooms and villas built up a steep hill that led down to a sheltered sandy beach. The hotel offered a choice of self-catering with breakfast, or all-inclusive. I’d chosen all-inclusive and been allocated a luxurious two-bedroom villa at the top of the hill. The accommodation included a large, comfortable lounge and a huge kitchen diner with cooker, microwave, fridge freezer, washing machine and tumble drier. Outside there was a neat patio with recliners and a pool with stunning views over the sea. Air-conditioned shuttle vehicles were always available on-demand to ferry guests up and down the hill’s twisting roads.

Several restaurants by the beach offered a wide selection of food from light bites to multi-course feasts and there was an authentic Italian restaurant, Papa Don’s, just up the hill from the main beachfront area. There was also a well-equipped gym, beauty spa and a children’s recreation area as well as several pools, and a water sports area away from the swimming area.

It would have been easy to stay put, but I wanted to explore this unusual island. Cocoa trees abound and it was interesting to discover that the fresh beans in the pod were white and very sweet, changing colour and taste as they dried. No wonder the most popular visitor attraction is chocolate making, and on a visit to the 120-year-old Howelton Estate, I gave it a try. Grinding the cocoa beans in a mortar and pestle was energetic but satisfying, and soon the chocolate mix was liquid and shiny. I decided to add a little mint before it was poured into a mould and popped into the fridge. After enjoying a cold Piton beer, my now solid home-made chocolate bar was expertly wrapped for me to take home.

The island has a huge variety of vegetation and wildlife. The enthusiastic guide at the Lushan Country Life trail pointed out herbs and plants and explained their medicinal and culinary uses. He also showed me early cooking devices known as coal pots and scooped up a huge, friendly black and yellow caterpillar with orange feet and a tiny black tail that happened to pass by.

The Tet Paul nature trail offered more information on plant life and, at the top, a stunning view of the sea and the twin Pitons for which the island is famous. They were formed by lava erupting from the seabed and cooling to form the characteristically steep-sided domes.

Just outside Soufriere I visited the Caribbean’s only drive-in volcano, an area with steaming sulphur springs and bubbling, hot grey pools. Visitors can also enjoy the mud baths where, having been artistically covered in volcanic mud, they can soak in naturally heated pools – a process designed to leave the skin fresh and smooth.

Another fascinating trip was on an aerial tram through the pleasantly cool mountain rain forest. A guide explained the vegetation as well as spotting a few hummingbirds along the way. In fact, the island is a bird spotters paradise with over 180 species to be found. They include black finches, orioles and six species that can be found only on the island.

My visit was over far too soon as George drove me back to the airport. I was left with memories of a unique Caribbean island, mountains, lush greenery, winding roads and, above all, genuinely friendly people who were always ready to help and chat.

FACT BOX

The St Lucia Tourism Authority (stlucia.org]provides comprehensive information on the island. Windjammer Landing (windjammer-landing.com) offers room and breakfast from $170 per person per night. The all-inclusive package is $129 per person per night. British Airways (ba.com) flies from London to St Lucia from £499 return. I love meet and greet (ilovemeetandgreet.co.uk) provides valet parking at Gatwick and Stansted airports from £110 a week.