The impenetrable and commanding defensive ramparts of Mdina, a medieval city in the heart of Malta, coils around a high plateau like an army ready to defend its home at whatever cost. At 200 metres above sea level, it’s not only seen from all parts of Malta, but it’s a timeless reminder of the area’s many conquering invaders, subsequent foreign settlers, and position as the island’s capital until 1530. Forming part of the honey-coloured Bastion walls is the opulent edifice of The Xara Palace – Mdina’s, if not all of Malta’s, most luxurious hotel.

If Mdina’s medieval name, Citta Notabile, means ‘the noble city’, then The Xara Palace is the crown jewel, sparkling with all the glitz, glamour, and prestige that comes from a 17^th-century palazzo once owned by nobility. This history is on display for all to see, with a gleaming brass plaque stating: The Maltese nobility assembles within the walls of this ancient palazzo to elect its committee of privileges. Inside is no different. Corridors are filled with antique furniture: gold-plated tables, Italian-style armchairs that wouldn’t look out of place at the Palace of Versailles, ornate oak doors taller than most houses, and original artworks adorning the walls. Added to that is a modern embodiment of luxury and upper class – a Michelin Star restaurant.

As you’d expect from a historic palazzo, the 17 rooms and suites at The Xara Palace are spacious, lofty, and richly decorated with upmarket tea- and coffee-making facilities, a fully stocked mini-bar, a writing desk, and countryside or street views. Each has a king-size bed, Parisian fabrics and antiques, vibrant paintings of Mdina’s cobblestone streets – and a selection of chocolates, giving the space a homely feel with a personable touch.

But what’s most striking is how everything feels exclusive and aristocratic: easily nine-foot-tall double doors, that look like they lead to a state dinner, open to a gold-framed mirror possibly measuring the size of a large Mercedes Benz. A lounge with a high ceiling, marble floors, a turquoise-and-yellow seating area, and muted-colour walls are also present. The self-command to not touch anything lest you break it is strong upon first entering Room 8 – a deluxe suite. More than one staff member informed me that this is their favourite room in the hotel, and it’s easy to see why. Through an archway is a bed with a gold headboard, surrounded by bohemian-style rugs, and a light curtain concealing an in-room bathtub with expensive bathing products. For those who like to shower, a third sizeable area has a rainfall shower, more luxury products, and seats. Book the room if you can, even if it’s only for this!

Attention to detail extends to the food and drinks served at The Xara Palace. Immediately upon entering the hotel’s double front doors – held open by a gentleman dressed in a clean-cut, polished uniform who always has a polite welcome at the ready – you’ll be treated to drinks in the reception-lounge area. From champagne to water, the choice is entirely yours. The staff will get it to you within seconds.

Breakfast orders are taken during this time, too. It’s not a simple question of “Would you like eggs?” but rather a two-sided menu with an extensive list of cooked and Continental options, and a page full of drinks. The meal is served on the building’s top floor, which has a penthouse feel, sporting large windows and a terrace with views of Malta’s countryside and coastline. Enjoy a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, and ham and poached eggs set on a muffin. The fruit platter with strawberries, oranges, apples, passionfruit, and peaches, and the light and fluffy croissants, are also delectable.In the evening, the same setting becomes The Mondion Restaurant (Michelin Star rating), with a menu containing “soul-nourishing cuisine.” And that’s not your only option – Trattoria AD1530, on the ground floor, is known for serving traditional pizza, pasta, and more.

But my favourite dining spot can only be found by walking a narrow street off Cathedral Square, where you’ll find The Xara Palace’s award-winning Medina Restaurant. It’s set within one of the city’s many honeycombed buildings – originally, it was an 11^th-century Norman residence – but its interior is unlike any other.

An exposed courtyard is filled with indoor plants, a tiled floor, and an iron-patterned balcony. Tables are laid to give guests plenty of space, but all are within view of the long green bar and its dexterous mixologist. Once again, the menu is extensive, but the house risotto made with bell peppers, lemon brine and sautéed peppers, and the Helwa tat-Tork – an almond praline with Xwejni salt and honey – are excellent examples of local ingenuity and fresh produce.

When it comes to downtime, The Xara Palace knows just how to send you into stress-free, relaxed mode. The hotel’s atrium, inspired by a Moroccan riad, is ideal for a quiet afternoon with a cocktail or two. At the same time, guests here also have exclusive access to the outdoor swimming pool at The Xara Lodge. But what makes staying here so special is having the city all to yourself after sunset. Glowing iron lamps light up the narrow pathways, making you feel like you’ve stepped back into the medieval period.

However, if you’d like to explore during the day, The Xara Palace Hotel sits within the centre of Mdina, with St Paul’s Cathedral a stone’s throw away. You’ll find exquisitely painted ceilings here, while its neighbouring museum houses important religious artefacts. Palazzo Falson is a beautiful medieval house with collections of armour, Oriental rugs, jewellery, and more, while Mesquita Square – a Game of Thrones filming location – has Don Mesquita. This is a quaint café, where a prerequisite for having a good time is ordering wine and salads and relaxing for hours.

And that’s precisely what makes The Xara Palace unique – it’s geared towards making its guests feel relaxed and at home (well, an upscale version of home). Staff are attentive, knowledgeable, and a pleasure to interact with, while the rooms and cuisine are the epitome of luxury. The only issue is that you’ll have to leave it all behind once your holiday ends. But there’s always next time…