Overhearing an American congressman compare the River Thames unfavourably with the Mississippi, MP John Burns famously retorted: ‘The Mississippi is muddy water, but the River Thames is liquid history.’ This exchange happened in 1929, but the phrase ‘liquid history’ has endured — a fitting epigram for the river that was here before Britain was even an island. For those eager to explore the winding waterways of England’s lifeblood, do so in style with LeBoat’s self-chartered luxury yachts.
Fair warning, however; there’s no rushing the River Thames. With an eight-knot per hour speed limit, your boating holiday begins when you decide it’s time to take things slow. Besides, following the whims of the water will soon prove to be a pleasurable pastime. In the Thames Valley, the sun shines uninterrupted by the great shadow of skyscrapers. Delicate birches and drooping willows line the riverbank and bleed their brilliant green colours into the river’s glassy surface. As you drift further, the sight of civilisation emerges from the water’s winding path — you’ll see quaint painted townhouses, antiquated chapels, and charming riverside restaurants. Admiring the English countryside from the fresh perspective of the water is a revelatory experience; doing so from the front-row seat of a luxury yacht is an enviable one.
Beginning in the late 60’s with eight bateaux in the Canal du Midi, LeBoat now operates over 900 self-chartered luxury yachts and canal boats across Europe and Canada’s inland waterways. With no license or prior experience needed to take the helm, the excitement of taking on a new challenge transforms a holiday into an adventure. Bowlines, river locks, nautical chartbooks; LeBoat’s comprehensive introductory briefing will soon wash away any apprehensions, leaving only anticipation, the thrum of the engine, and an open stretch of water waiting to be discovered.
Their Premier fleet brings a taste of Monaco wherever your destination with a fleet of yachts designed exclusively for the company. Spacious, sleek, and fitted with all worldly amenities, passengers have their pick of three sizeable cabins equipped with an ensuite bathroom and cozy twin or double bed. But the call of the outdoors will entice you out of your rooms earlier than you’d expect. Most of your time will probably be spent in the open-air upper deck, which features a cushioned sundeck, built in barbecue and dining area — ideal for dinner and drinks alfresco. A bimini top can be opened for shade (or in the event of particularly British weather), but this will always be done with a slight reluctance as you find yourself unwilling to part with even a portion of the illustrious views on display.
The captain of your own yacht, you have the added luxury of charting your own course. Choose between LeBoat’s 3-5 night boating break or their indulgent 7-10+ night vacation, beginning in their marina in Chertsey and ending in the bucolic village of Benson. To experience the wonders of the Thames Valley to the fullest, however, there are some cities and towns that are not to be missed in-between.
A luxury cruise on the Thames is incomplete without a visit to Windsor, the cradle of the royal family and the enduring honeypot for international tourists. You’ll know you’ve arrived when, to your left, the grassy riverbank flattens into perfectly manicured grounds. Troops of oak trees guard the first glimpses of Windsor Castle, the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world. Windsor is an enchanting town, so much so that it is quickly forgiven for being tourist-heavy — the historic Long Walk, opulent State Apartments, and grand gothic arches of St. George’s Chapel mesmerise the masses for a reason. With most shops in Windsor selling swan-safe food, why not indulge in a bit of childlike whimsy and feed the royal swans? Watching them glide across the river to flock around the side of your yacht is an unparalleled experience, made more striking against the backdrop of the royal town’s stately silhouettes.
Of course, there’s no better place than Windsor to participate in the great British tradition of afternoon tea. Brown’s Bar and Brasserie is a music venue turned elegant eatery whose priceless views — the Thames on one side, Windsor Castle on the other — complement an afternoon spent drinking tea and eating freshly baked scones. Also offering an indulgent afternoon spread is the Sir Christopher Wren, the only hotel in Windsor to overlook the Thames. Sip sparkling champagne in their romantic riverside terrace, or snack on a delicate display of sandwiches by their drawing room’s crackling fire. Wherever you decide to have your British banquet, make sure to return to your yacht in the evening for a sleep under the stars.
Marlow is a market town far less frequented but no less lovely than Windsor. Made up of Georgian architecture and charming cobbled streets, visitors will discover the centre of town with some surprise; at its heart is a fashionable and modern high street, filled with boutique stores and luxury brands. Sitting at the foot of the Chilterns, Marlow’s circular walk (beginning in the town centre) will lead eager nature enthusiasts into their own promised land. Ramble across acres of beech woodlands carpeted with vibrant wildflowers and sprouting mushrooms as you revel in the fresh air of the English countryside. Climbing higher up the path, the trees will eventually part to reveal a truly breathtaking panoramic: the shining ribbon of the river Thames, threading its way through the rolling Chiltern hills.
As the sun sets, the evening calls for an exploration of Marlow’s sparkling gastronomic scene. The Hand & Flowers is the only pub in the UK to have 2 Michelin Stars; Sindhu is run by Atul Kochler, the first ever to win a Michelin star for Indian cuisine; The Vanilla Pod has been awarded 2AA Rosettes and serves award-winning French-English fusion in T.S Eliot’s former home. In as little as 15 years, these acclaimed restaurants have secured Marlow’s future as a lynchpin of luxury British tourism.
Henley is a delightful riverside town whose crowning achievement is, of course, the Royal Regatta. Earning its royal status when Prince Albert became its patron in 1851, this quintessentially British sport is an unmissable event on the social calendar of the elite. For a few sunlit summer days a year there’s a buzz in the air, breaking out into riotous applause as rapt bystanders watch the athletes row furiously down the river. Henley’s slice of the Thames comes alive in the summer, but Henley-on-Thames is a lively and elegant town whatever the weather, retaining an aristocratic air rivalled only by Windsor. There’s a wealth of stately homes and glorious gardens to explore, including Nuffield Place, the former house of acclaimed poet and textile designer William Morris.
For luxury dining options, dock your yacht and roam riverside to find the charming, family-run Bistro at the Boathouse. Awarded a Michelin plate, you’ll be able to savour a selection of dishes sourced from the British Isles — soft shell crab, crispy battered haddock, and steamed Cornish mussels — all while drinking in the outdoor terrace’s idyllic views. In colder weather, Bistro at the Boathouse offers sophisticated heated seating pods in the style of London’s West End eateries. With the Regatta now back to its traditional summer slot post-Covid, there is no better time to start planning your visit to Henley.
Known for its legendary music festival and lively shopping district (including iconic leisure mall The Oracle), Reading has rightfully earned the moniker of ‘The Thames Valley Capital’. But this youthful district is built on old bones. A mere ten minutes away from the river lies the vast medieval ruins of Reading Abbey. Shut down in the 16th century on the orders of Henry VIII, it has lived many a fascinating life since, both Elizabeth I and Jane Austen having wandered through its once-hallowed halls.
For a luxury tour of this vibrant town, The Roseate should be first port of call. This townhouse hotel revels in its own maximalist splendour with its marble flooring, red velvet chaise lounges, and cascading crystal chandelier. Dine at their glamorous restaurant Cerise or make the pilgrimage to L’Ortolan in Church Lane, which serves Michelin star French cuisine in a former vicarage.
Another restoration project worth visiting is Thames Lido. Having revitalised Reading’s historic Edwardian swimming baths, it is now a chic urban retreat where members have free rein over the heated outdoor swimming pool and Scandinavian-inspired saunas and steam rooms. The new thriving cosmopolitan for the jeunesse à la mode, this town is a must-see on your LeBoat itinerary.
There’s a curious charm to LeBoat’s luxury cruisers, captured in a line from Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows — a book whose whimsy was, in fact, inspired by the wildlife of the Thames Valley. Whether you’re feeding the swans from the side of your yacht, playing a boisterous game of cards in the upstairs saloon, or simply sitting on deck with a glass of whatever-you-fancy, ‘there’s nothing half so much worth doing as messing about in boats’.