The Luxury Travel Magazine
The Luxury Travel Magazine
For Francophiles, the three-bedroom gite in the grounds of the 15th century Chateau de la Fuye, is the most luxurious French gite. For romantics there is also a tower for two. Chateau de la Fuye is a white honey coloured dream, which for over six centuries has seen France’s history come and go.
Once a weekend bolt hole for the aristocratic owners of the nearby grand Villandry chateau, La Fuye is now thoughtfully, lovingly curated by English couple Rowena and Simon Michaels. They lived in the gite for years, making it their home, whilst restoring the seven bedrooms chateau. Gloriously, celebrating the spirit of the Loire Valley.
Consequently, the aesthetics of the gite are more chateau than holiday home. The gite could be a rural Louvre outpost. Rowena, an avid collector of art and antiques, is addicted to auctions. She is a woman who doesn’t have “C’est pas possible” in her vocabulary. Knowing the elegant ambience she seeks: a sophisticated and respectful fusion of antique with the present day.
Her collection of artwork ranges from the thick-oiled style of old masters, through country themed watercolours and onto contemporary avantgarde. In fact, Period Living visited Chateau de la Fuye to photograph and write a feature on Rowena’s eclectic style.
“We intended to design both gite and tower for English travellers,” says Rowena. “Back in COVID times, when overseas travel was difficult we found that it was the French who were booking in, often as an escape from Paris, happy to relax by the pool. And many of them keep returning.”
It is ironic that it has taken English flair to design a version of the French good life that the natives adore. Nothing is more French than the farmhouse kitchen. Within the dark olive drawers guests find forks for snails and a truffle shaver.
A welcome pack announces that La Fuye is a gourmet’s retreat. A round of cheese, butter with salt crystals, a fine bottle of local red wine, eggs freshly collected from the estate hens, La Fuye honey and the obligatory baguette serve as an introduction to local food. If a baguette crisis should occur, the gite’s guide directs you to a boulangerie with a baguette vending machine. For emergencies.
For foodies a visit to Chinon’s market, overlooked by a statue of Joan of Arc, it was at Chinon that the teenager persuaded the French king to give her an army to defeat the English, is not to be missed. Top up on oysters at the fishmongers, on cheeses at the fromagerie stalls and a vast array of breads from the bakers. Chinon is a place to get hands-on with France’s finest food.
After foraging through the market, relax with a wine at the aptly named A La Pause Rabelaisienne. A philosophical wine bar that celebrates Chinon’s intellectual hero. Though locals in the know head for Cabane a Vin and Cave Voltaire.
Though at La Fuye, foodie talk frequently turns to the truffles that may or not be growing in the 10 acre orchard. Truffles are the ultimate hit-and-miss crop. As elusive and mystical as the Northern Lights. Their scarcity is much reflected in their high price point.
From November through to January guests, may or may not, enjoy the spectator sport of the truffle harvest. Three local ladies, three generations of the same family, plus their dogs, may or may not arrive to search for the aromatic, earthy nutty and woody delicacy. Last harvest truffles were only found around every eighth tree. Those truffles were sold to the best restaurants in Paris.
For true chateau aficionados and for the uber-fit, La Fuye can be the start and conclusion of a lengthy walk that takes in eight of the local chateaux: a dreamy meander through fairy tale towers and acres of formal gardens. Azay de Rideau, with tuffeau stone reflecting in the moat, is the quintessential Loire chateau. Fascinating not just for its architecture but also for some intriguing Renaissance va va voom injected by Catherine de Medici. She brought more to the table than the civilising influence of forks at dinner time. Amongst the dark corridors and secluded bedchambers she also imported ruthless Machiavellian politics.
Azay le Rideau displays a travelling liquor cabinet. It’s a civilised and indulgent tradition that La Fuye picks up on with a supremely well-equipped cocktail trolley: bourbon, champagne, gin, vodka, whisky, lemons, limes and mixers are all to hand.
The romantic tower for two and a gite sleeping six tempt families and friends to hire both properties for relaxing gatherings. Eight can be seated under the timbered loggia looking out over the boules court and croquet lawn, around the farmhouse kitchen table or at the tables in the diner and lounge.
The Stables at Chateau de la Fuye has to be a contender for the title of most luxurious Loire hotel. It is loved by both the English and the Down from Paris Crowd, both seeking an idyllic escape in one of France’s most scenic regions. C’est magnifique!
