Challenging the hierarchy is never simple, let alone overthrowing it. Just look at the culmination of the French Revolution in 1799. However, instead of Napolean Bonaparte staging a coup d’état to overthrow the monarchy, it is the rise of Septime in the liberation of haute French cuisine. No two visits are the same yet it feels like home. The landscape of Parisian culinary desires is changing, and no one wants to be on the wrong side of change.

Situated in the 11^th Arrondissement of Paris is Septime, the neo-bistro restaurant that has added a touch of tranquillity to French fine dining. Unlike some overbearingly exclusive Parisian establishments, visitors are overwhelmed by Septime’s simplicity. Do not be fooled however, with the menu changing seasonally and expertly crafted wine lists that can be paired with the food, guests will never become bored. No two visits are the same, yet it feels like home. This Michelin star restaurant really unifies all that is trendy and exciting about Parisian dining right now.

Co-founded by two childhood friends in 2011, culinary inspiration comes from all walks of life to work its way into the kitchen. Betrand Grébaut, head chef of Septime, initially trained to be a graphic designer, predominantly through his love of graffiti which found its way onto metro stations throughout Paris. Yet his career drastically pivoted when he followed his two passions of cooking and eating. Culinary school only fuelled his culinary desires as he interned for Alain Passard at L’Arpège, which he credits with teaching him ‘how not do be mediocre. Finally, before Septime, he held the position of head chef at L’Agapé which he believes elevated his mastery to the next level. His friend and business partner Théo Pourriat who is head sommelier at Septime. Briefly before the restaurant opened, he moved to Florence to travel around the countryside and source wine-makers who would best fit the restaurant menu.

Reflective of both founders’ style and taste, everything is innovative but carefully considered. A five-course tasting menu is available Monday through Friday at the reasonable price of 85 euros, with dinner involving a seven-course menu at 150 euros. The wine-tasting option is an encouraged addition whereby a carefully chosen glass of vino is paired with cuisine. 90% of ingredients are sourced locally from France with the restaurant specialising in vegetables, whole meats and natural wines. Only the olive oil and limes are drawn from Sicily.

One of French cuisine’s greatest strengths is its diversity as exemplified by the menu which changes every three weeks, meaning no two visits will be the same. Chef Grébaut describes his cooking as ‘naïve, spontaneous, balanced’, but this doesn’t even begin to do his culinary expertise justice. Both vegetarian and meat-based options are available at no trouble whatsoever to the chefs. The main course of the pork belly for example, is replaced with a delightful cauliflower concoction with an abundance of cream sauce. Signature dishes that draw visitors from all corners of the globe include line-caught tuna with raspberries and tomato water as well as pigeon paired with beets and morello cherries.

With the restaurant nestled in the 11^th Arrondissement, visitors may expect an area bustling with ateliers but will come to find a renaissance of avant-garde food lovers. Septime’s interior décor strikes the lovely balance between rustic and modern with natural wood furnishings and plain white walls giving a very local and reassuring feel to the dining experience. There are no tablecloths or streamlined tableware in sight which places the food at centre stage of proceedings. The wooden tables and large windows create a homely atmosphere as if one has been there before. But, of course, if guests do decide to return, be sure to remember that the first experience won’t be quite like the second. With the ritual of fine cuisine becoming rather boring, the design of Septime liberates the dining experience from fancy hotel institutions.

 

It is worth noting how hard it is to get a booking at Septime, it is certainly not the type of restaurant you can waltz in to on the day. Three weeks before the desired date is advised to get in contact, since reservations can’t be made before. Some luck is definitely needed but with persistence it is an experience worth the effort.

In the instance of being unable to book, Clamato is the sister reservation of Septime and accepts walk-ins only. It’s predominant focus is on seafood with some seasonal changes in menu depending on product availability. Another option is the Septime La Café which is a walk-in wine bar serving a delicious selection of natural wines.

Gorgeous fine dining without the constraints of a luxury hotel or restaurant, Septime offers a vibe unlike anywhere else in Paris. At the forefront of the neo-bistro culinary movement, it is easy to see why guests travel from far and wide to experience Mr Grébaut and Mr Pourriat’s gastronomic magistery. No two visits are the same, yet it always feels like home.