The cathedral bells chime the hour along Summit Avenue, a stretch of stately mansions in brownstone and brick – relics of the Guilded Age. Here one will find the best view of St. Paul, Minnesota, where each day waxes poetically in a sunset reflecting in the ripples of the Mississippi River.  Nestled in this hilltop neighborhood at the top of town is The Davidson.

A turn-of-the-century Tudor mansion-turned boutique hotel perched prominently amidst Victorian architectural splendor, the Davidson’s three stories of granite are as intimate within as they are eminent without—no matter where travelers are coming from, a stay here gives one a sense of coming home.

The Davidson reflects the demure disposition of Saint Paul, a quiet capitol harboring the hush of a raucous history. A labyrinth of abandoned caves and tunnels burrowed under neighborhoods and along the riverway evokes echoes of prohibition-era gangsters and the secret glamour of speakeasies. Here, too, is where celebrated American writer F. Scott Fitzgerald grew up. He completed his first novel, This Side of Paradise, in the drafty attic room of a townhouse just up the street from The Davidson, the novel that brought him instant renown as the chronicler of the jazz age.

Entering through the front door of The Davidson, a quiet wood-paneled hallway suggests guests have the house to themselves—lush carpets beckon, but all must leave their shoes at the door. As a home away from home, guests have access to a sumptuous sitting room for basking in the daylight or enjoying a nightcap before turning in. Across the way is an extensive library which offers a day’s diversion with a treasury of written words and the promise of armchair travel to every corner of the world. But the most imposing feature beyond the foyer is the half-turn staircase, wide and sweeping, swathed in sunlight that streams through the windows on the landing. A trip up the stairs seems to take guests through the ages.

This boutique hotel is an intimate household with eight sunny suites, each warm and inviting with a homey array of antique décor and plush furniture—loaded bookshelves and welcoming fireplaces offer the finishing touch of coziness. Every room preserves the timeless charm of history in conjunction with modern amenities—complete with a kitchen, each suite truly is a home away from home.

Suite 101, though situated on the ground floor, offers guests the height of luxury with a pair of French doors that open into a stately set of rooms with sweeping ceilings, bountiful windows, cabinets of carefully curated antiques, and a baby grand piano for good measure.

But suite 302 on the top floor enjoys one of the best kept secrets in the city, a private panorama from the bedroom window of the Mississippi river valley. Watching Smith Bridge light to life with the turn from day to dusk is sublime scenery not to be missed—looking out at this framed urban vista shimmering with city life, guests sink into pillows with daydreams of a world all to themselves.

A meal is just a brisk block down the street to the University Club, perched proudly on a bluff overlooking the city. Dining in the Ramsey Room, subdued lighting and the murmur of conversation accentuate a wall of windows which grants guests an equally awe-inspiring outlook of a thousand colored lights shimmering from the city into the river. The menu mirrors the view as it changes with the seasons, but a glass of wine pairs perennially with American comfort cuisine. Any time of year diners can look forward to succulent steaks, savory seafood, or the iconic Varsity Burger, but seasonal seasonings keep palates coming back for more.

Evenings wane elegantly at W.A. Frost and Company, which brings guests two blocks North of Summit Avenue and a hundred years back in time. Setting the standard for fine dining in St. Paul, this Victorian pharmacy-turned upscale restaurant offers a secret garden patio oasis for dining en plein air, or any number of cozily juxtaposed nooks and crannies indoors, where oriental rugs and stone walls compose a timeless ambiance. The sweeping, salvaged bar is perhaps the most prominent feature, and lures patrons to its marble-topped splendor with the promise of libations that afford a bit of history with each sip.

Time travel is a singular charm of St. Paul. Gatsby-era galivanting is all the rage at the Wabasha Street Caves just across the river, which offer gangster tours of the city and weekly swing dancing in a subterranean wonderland—live music and laughter echo, and the sequined swish of a flapper dress is no uncommon spectacle. When not strolling the jazz-infused streets that inspired the words of F. Scott Fitzgerald, guests will find even more of a throwback at Como Park uptown, which exudes Edwardian elegance with acres of aromatic gardens surrounding Como Lake. But for all the timeless splendor of St. Paul, one of the best ways to experience the city is indeed from the cozy comfort of The Davidson, where views of the Mississippi river valley add prestige to all the comforts of home.