There’s a bold restaurant on the culinary block, one that isn’t afraid to spiritedly mingle with British traditions and renovate dishes that offer natural flavours. Though some may say it’s tablecloth free with a lack of chinwag, it doesn’t account for the excellent dishes and exceptional dining experience. If one is looking for a place to devour a menu with both balance and variety, then look no further than The Clove Club.
The Clove Club is a relaxed fine dining restaurant located in the striking Shoreditch Town Hall. The hall is somewhat of a Victorian beauty and was known as one of the grandest Vestry Halls of its time and it also operated as the centre of local democracy and civic life in the borough of Shoreditch. The restaurant which is set inside the historic room of the Town Hall serves a seasonal tasting menu which features contemporary and tasteful dishes alongside an extensive wine list that showcases some of the most modern winemakers. It currently holds two Michelin Stars and has won a variety of other awards including the No.1 restaurant in the UK in the Sunday Times Top 100.
Led by Scottish Chef Isaac McHale, the restaurant can only be described as his lovechild. From a young age, McHale worked in restaurant kitchens across Glasgow before deciding to travel to gain more knowledge and experience in restaurants around the world. During his travels he trained at Rene Redzepi’s Noma, Eleven Madison Park, and The Ledbury. Following his departure from the Ledbury in 2013, he ran a series of experimental pop-up restaurants and supper clubs across London and during this time, he was acquainted with Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith.
The trio used a crowdfunding website called Crowdcube to open The Clove Club in 2013 and won their first Michelin Star a year later followed by a second star in 2022. Yes, you heard that right, this is a Michelin star restaurant which was crowdfunded, nonetheless, The Clove Club has indeed flipped the capital’s restaurant scene on its head with their sensational dishes and their five-course tasting menus, which they take great pride in. They have designed their menus to reimagine the often-overlooked British ingredients for something a little cutting-edge and innovative.
The Clove Club consists of two rooms; the bar where locals come in without reservations to have a bite to eat from the bar menu or to down a heavenly cocktail, but the real crowd-puller is the brilliant tasting menu served in the small dining room next door. Upon entering, the room is impressive as one would expect given the municipal heritage. There are towering ceilings and gorgeously grand windows, giving in lots of light.
White walls and mahogany floors give that minimalist but sophisticated look whilst splashes of green from the small plants placed on each table allow for all the colours to perfectly blend, showcasing an era defining modern British restaurant. There are only 11 tables, all of which are angled to look toward the snug and slick, blue-tiled semi-open kitchen almost like a theatre so visitors can marvel at their delicious creations being prepared and plated. It’s like a grand performance all leading up to the moment one can devour their delicious dish. The food is a magnificent and extensive take on British cuisine with a meticulous emphasis on vegetables.
To begin with, there is a ‘snacks’ section of the meal to help kindle the palate. These are a selection of flavoursome tarts each wrapped in crunchy shells like the beef tartare tartlet with a charcoal cream, elderberry and capers or the devil crabbed tartlet which has a refreshing taste and with the gentle peppery spicing, it’s not too strong on the tastebuds. Another popular nibble is the Buttermilk chicken, displayed beautifully on a bed of pine needles and a sprinkle of pine needle salt. A charismatic and easy dish to make one’s acquaintance with because its full of Southern flavours and invigorated with that touch of pine.
Now the main dishes begin to surge out: a hot smoked Wiltshire trout served in a lagoon of almond milk and watercress, toasted almonds, and prune kernel oil and a spoonful of caviar. Everything comes together beautifully with the flavours of the almonds cloaking the trout and the salty caviar adding a delightful bite. Paying homage to Isaac McHale’s Orkney childhood; a taste of the raw Orkney scallop will have guests feeling transported to another realm entirely. It comes with hazelnut, clementine and Périgord truffle on a squid ink base. This truly is a flawless and elusive dish which exquisitely manages to balance an intricacy of flavours.
And to top of the perfect meal there is an insanely fine selection of desserts as well as wines. The main dessert is a Gateaux St. Honoré using forced Yorkshire rhubarb, Chantilly cream filling speckled with choux buns laced with lemon curd with a rhubarb sorbet and ginger ale crumble on the side. The dish is pretty looking and unthinkably rich, there’s a strong creamy taste but a subtle balance from the acidity of the rhubarb, it’s the perfect mix of sweetness to satisfy the sweet tooth.
The Amalfi lemonade and Kampot white pepper ice cream is heavenly and with the fluffy Madeleine on the side, it’s a divine combination. A delicious white wine that pairs perfectly with this is Le Peu de la Moriette, 2009 which has a honey-like sweetness and rich fruit hints, the pairing is faultless and unforgettable. Other delicious drinks include the 2015 dry Moscatel and the Wild Boy Santa Barbara Chardonnay.
It’s truly a wonderful experience at The Clove Club. There is unified service with a completely amalgamated team of chefs, servers and kitchen staff working to embellish dishes and affix toppings with steady hands. There is love and adoration for ingredients with intricate and precise cooking creating reimagined dishes bursting with layers of flavour. There is one focus here at The Clove Club and that is to take guests on a gastronomic pleasure journey in one of the most adroit kitchens in the UK.