While most people enjoying a beach escape in Tanzania will flock to the white sands of Zanzibar, there is much to be said for remaining on the mainland – where long stretches of unspoiled beaches more than rival their illustrious island neighbour.

A mere 30km drive from Pangani, in northeast Tanzania, lies the idyllic Kijongo Bay Beach Resort. While regular flights from most of the country’s main tourist spots serve this remote gem, it unleashes something of the explorer in you to arrive under your own steam. Only accessible in a 4×4 vehicle, the cross-sand route to Kijongo is an adventure in itself, made all the more rewarding by the oasis found at the end of your journey.

Although named a ‘resort’, Kijongo is anything but the typical image such a moniker conjures up. This is exclusive, unobtrusive beach accommodation. Entirely solar-powered, here you are very much off-grid. The relaxed, informal nature of the service means you feel instantly at home. The communal area nestles among tall palm trees, a stone’s throw from the water’s edge, and there is an authentic Swahili feel to the architecture.

Rooms come in the form of two-storey thatched villas – of which there are just seven – overlooking the Indian Ocean and the seemingly endless, almost deserted, Sange Beach. The downstairs features a large double bedroom with an equally spacious en suite bathroom, including walk-in shower. The upper floor houses a smaller double bedroom and a roof terrace, complete with daybed, from where you can watch dhows sail past and fishermen returning with their catch – or even sleep under the stars. Alternatively, the two-bed Boma House comes with a sitting room and kitchenette – perfect for family stays or those preferring a more home-style vacation.

Perhaps the ultimate activity here is to ‘do nothing’, especially after a hard week’s safari. And this is the ideal place to recharge the batteries. There is surely nothing better than waking up to find a pot of coffee outside your door, then taking a stroll through the shady palms to the beach, feeling the sand between your toes and sinking into the warm sea as the sun rises.

Relax on comfy sofas in the bar, play games, read, jump into the adjacent pool to cool off or engage in convivial conversation with the staff. Barman Abdulshakur Juma, better known as ‘Shak’, is a source of entertainment on his own – his dry, infectious humour and endless stories a joy to behold.

The food is also a delight. Locally grown vegetables accompanying freshly caught kingfish is one such delicacy served in the well-appointed open-air restaurant. Or, to make it extra special, try a candlelit dinner on the beach.

But this is so much more than a beach holiday. A short walk finds you at the Msangazi River, where you can paddle kayaks through its Okavango-esque channels and out into the ocean. The surrounding mangrove forest is home to myriad birdlife, such as kingfishers, egrets, hamerkops and fish eagles; while black-and-while colobus monkeys cavort in the treetops.

This tidal estuary can be explored further by motorboat. A sundowner cruise will take you into the heart of this peaceful water world. As you drop anchor and enjoy a cool Kilimanjaro beer or two, huge flocks of cormorants fly overhead, returning to their nests for the night.

The nearby Maziwe Island Marine Reserve affords the chance to snorkel among a variety of sealife, including a startling array of brightly coloured starfish. Those still requiring their fill of wildlife can join a day trip to the unique Saadani National Park – where the bush meets the sea – which is on Kijongo’s doorstep. Who knows, you may spot elephants taking a swim or lions padding along the beach.

If this isn’t enough, from June-August sea turtles hatch along Sange Beach and take their first forays into the ocean. Further afield, you can enjoy walking tours and river cruises in the ancient Swahili trading post of Pangani, where a mishmash of cultural influences – Asian, Arab and European – collide.

Zanzibar who?

Author Phil Clisby stayed at Kijongo Bay Beach Resort as part of a self-drive trip organised through Tanzania Unravelled .