The Luxury Travel Magazine
The Luxury Travel Magazine
One rarely gets to eat in the favourite restaurant of the late Coco Chanel and Princess Diana. While there, one will surely pause while lifting their silver spoon to taste a lobster bisque, thinking that one day they’ll tell the grandchildren about their time here. The location is close to Theatreland, and all the shops are tucked away so VIPs can enjoy the ultimate privacy. This is L’Escargot in Soho.
The Edwardian house is homely and exactly what you’d want in one of London’s most chic restaurants with eccentric works of art. One will find memorabilia from the 1920s through the present day, including a stunning art deco chandelier in the main restaurant downstairs and celebrity photographs donated by the stars themselves upstairs in the Library Room.
Exploring the three floors of the restaurant you’ll encounter a photo of the Beatles and another of Mick Jagger, along with vibrant artworks by Picasso and Matise elsewhere. The bar area is located on the top floor with rooms for private dining decorated in an art deco style with a gorgeous chandelier as the room’s centrepiece. The restaurant is both intimate and largely popular with repeat visitors and romantic couples. Ratpack music plays in the background creating a wonderful atmosphere.
L’Escargot is London’s oldest French restaurant and is in its historic French quarter. Originally called Le Bienvenue, L’Escargot made a name for itself as the only place to enjoy the French delicacy of snails. This inspired its change of moniker to L’Escargot when it relocated in 1927 to its current Greek Street home. Since then, the restaurant has hosted many celebrities from Coco Chanel, Dame Shirley Bassey, Petula Clark, HRH Princess Margaret, Diana and even crime bosses, the Krays twins.
Nowadays it is owned by Brian Clivaz of the Arts Club and a group of his friends. In more recent years Sir Elton John and Sir Anthony Hopkins have been known to dine here. L’Escargot has such a fabled history that it has become somewhat of an institution.
The restaurant is lively during lunchtime and even more popular in the evening when you will need to book a table in advance. And you never know when you might spot a celebrity of two. Those seeking privacy can opt to dine in the lavish private dining room upstairs. The grand table is framed by a giant mirror and there is an armchair in the corner of the room and a statue of dogs. Fitting, since the restaurant’s owner has a dog called Dorris, who is a regular visitor to the venue. On the same floor is another private dining space and a bar and private members club. The walls are painted in deep colours and decorated in art, there is a Matisse snail cut out and Beryl Cook prints.
L’Escargot has had many famous chefs including Marco Pierre White and is currently helmed by James Tyrrell who previously led the chef team at Claridge’s hotel creating a legacy of fine culinary offerings. The snails are the draw and come smothered in garlic butter. They must be carefully picked up with special tongs. You can also taste them already shelled and concealed within a Roquefort pie but the Lobster bisque, is a safer bet, and still a typically French dish. This warming starter was accompanied by a Côtes-du-Rhône, ‘Château Beauchêne’ 2021. You can follow this up with more lobster if you wish, or a famous beef rossini.
The roast grouse is a delicacy which must be tried between late summer and autumn when it is in season, accompanied by game chips and bread sauce. The Gigondas, Domaine Gour de Chaulé 2019 complements it perfectly. For all the dishes, the ingredients are high quality, and the cuisine is extremely well presented. The wines on offer complement the food perfectly.
The service is impeccable, not too hurried and you can enjoy a relaxed afternoon. In France, lunchtime is celebrated, and it is in L’Escargot. Expect a two-and-a-half hour experience as you are welcomed like an old friend whether it is your first visit or your hundredth. France has a reputation for fine food and wine. Therefore, at the fanciest French restaurant in town, you can expect the very best of the best. A visit to L’Escargot is like watching a symphony. All the ingredients combine with finesse for an experience that not only nourishes you but entertains as well as inspires. L’Escargot truly epitomises the good life, la belle vie. Once you taste it, you’ll want to visit for more special occasions.
