Chester’s history is rich, from the Roman Legionaires who marched to war, to the Viking raiders who wreaked havoc and Norman invaders who conquered the Anglo Saxons. Inside Chester’s city walls is the largest Roman Amphitheatre in Britain,  a 1000 year old Cathedral and 700 year old Rows now repuposed into designer shops for a bit of retail theraphy. A wonderful as Chester’s historical treasures may be, it is anything but old.  This city is offers all the modernities and creature comforts for the well heeled traveler from swanky hotel stays to gastronomic adventures at Michelin star restaurants. Chester’s greatest gift is its ability to give reverence to the past while embracing the future.

There’s so much to see and do in Cheshire’s largest city, Chester. Visit the oldest racecourse in the country and have a flutter or spend your days browsing the expensive boutiques in the famous rows for jewellery and the best attire. Graze in fine dining restaurants, or stop for a drink in some of the old pubs. As you meander down the rows admiring at the architecture, be sure to gaze at the glorious Eastgate clock built to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897.

Chester is an ancient city, and its origins stretch back more than 2,000 years when the Roman Empire built Fortress Deva here to suppress the Welsh tribes. They built a wall around the city and two main sections remain, along with the ruins of the largest Roman amphitheatre in the UK which once saw mighty Gladiators clash. Chester Castle was built by the Norman invaders under the orders of Hugh Lupus, a nephew of William The Conqueror, who also commissioned the creation of the 1,000-year-old cathedral.

In the Middle Ages, Chester was the largest port in North West England welcoming sailing ships from across the world until the River Dee silted up. Yet Chester retained its reputation for commerce on land when 700 years ago, its merchants developed the world famous ‘Rows’. These are two-tier galleries of Tudor style shops fashioned out of black and white.

 

The local economy prospered until the outbreak of the English Civil War when the city supported King Charles I over Oliver Cromwell. The Royalist city of Chester was under siege for two years by parliamentary armies which caused it to suffer. But it bounced back and became resplendent under the great Georgian and Victorian eras with many glorious architecture examples still standing today.

Hotel Indigo, an IHG hotel, is a modern and stylish place to stay in the heart of the city. It is close to the Roman Amphitheatre and a short stroll away from the rows. Step into a world of timeless elegance. From the moment you check in at the quilted leather reception desk, concierge can take care of aspects of your stay, from ensuring you have the key card to your room to booking a day out at Chester Zoo for the whole family. Take the lift upstairs to the bedrooms and be transported into a classical and elegant world.

The rooms are spacious and dominated by classical features. Every feature, from the comfy king-sized beds to the rich colourscheme to the iron mirrors and soft lighting and modern art which reflect different aspects of the city. All this works in harmony. The bathrooms are large with a spacious walk in shower and vanity sink and Zenology amenities. Just a stroll away you can access all the evening entertainment Chester has to offer. You’ll need to park in a public car park nearby as the hotel has no parking facilities.

You needn’t leave the hotel to find great food. The Forge is a meat lover’s paradise, which specialises in game and meat. Not only does it serve succulent steaks in the evening, it also whips up delicious breakfasts for hotel guests. Featured in the Michelin plate guide, The Forge is deemed one of the finest restaurants in the city. As you are seated, in the forest themed dining room prepare to be mesmerised by the skillful chefs preparing fine food in front of you on a live cooking counter as well as on the barbeque flame. Dine under a forest canopy immersing yourself in a world of nature with every bite.

As you sink into the verdant cushions, settle in for the evening and prepare to be pampered. The menu is bursting with unusual dishes with an emphasis on game and meat. The tastes of the countryside are woven into each exquisite dish. There is a theme of hunter, gatherer here from the moment you select your own cut of steak from the fridge, Vegans might want to look away at this point. The chefs will tenderly cook your meat over flames as you make your way through the wine list. Start with a glass of champagne and oysters or since game is the specialty of this restaurant, why not indulge in the trio of pheasant? For a sharing snack, the game lollipops are a wonderful introduction to this earthly meat which is coated with a rich sweet sauce. The venison scotch eggs are also a good choice.

Owner chef Mike Robinson supplies the finest venison in the country to Michelin star restaurants, so it goes without saying that you must try the fallow deer. This dish is so succulent it melts in the mouth. Since the deer are fed an organic diet, this cut of meat is beautifully lean and flavoursome. Accompanied by mushrooms freshly foraged from the woods, the rich earthy aromas tantalise the tastebuds. This is paired beautifully with creamy dirty mash. The restaurant is great for children, who can try a venison burger with triple-cooked chips. For dessert, there are plenty of options including the Cherry Bakewell souffle with almond ice cream and marzipan.

The ambiance is just right, Motown music softly playing in the background, genteel chatter and laughter as the backing track, you instantly feel at ease. The restaurant staff are patient and attentive and great with children. The VIP private dining space is also worth hiring out if you are dining in a large group.

Chester has many fine places to explore. Located in the historic 13th Century crypted cellars on Watergate Street, Vin Santo is a wine shop and wine bar run by four friends.  Separate from the main bar is the “Snug”, the perfect space for private wine tastings which can entertain six to ten people. Meanwhile if you are looking for entertainment for the whole family then look no further than the Storyhouse featuring a theatre, cinema, library and 800 -seat auditorium, 200-seat studio theatre, a restaurant and two bars and also a 100-seat boutique cinema. History buffs will also love to have a pint in The Boot Inn which was was built in the early to middle part of the 17th century, opening as an inn in 1643. Its façade was rebuilt and restored in the late 19th century.

While exploring the rows be sure to stop off at the Cavern of the Curious Gnome and head upstairs through a wine bar to discover craft ales and delicious cheeseboards, or alternatively enjoy a warming brew in the Naughty Badger Coffee House or escape into the world of Lewis Carroll Mad Hatter’s Tea Room. While in the rows, you might also want to have a spot of lunch at La Brasserie which serves oysters and champagne.

Chester Zoo is a wonderful day out for the whole family which provides the chance to view rare and endangered animals like the cheetah and many species of bears. The zoo has giraffes, monkeys. penguins and elephants and additionally, there is a fruit bat forest which you can experience as well as the chance to get up close and personal with lemurs.

The Oakfield is a red brick manor house that was the former home of the founder of the zoo George Mottershead who in 1930 bought the property and surrounding land. He set about realising his vision of creating a zoo without bars, a haven for exotic animals. The Oakfield’ became the family home, a tearoom, an aquarium and now a contemporary British pub that celebrates the rich heritage of Chester Zoo. Today The Oakfield has been lovingly restored creating a relaxed space that will be the perfect setting to enjoy the best food and drink we can provide. It feels like you have stepped into the home of a great explorer as you glance around at all the precious family photographs and early zoo memories whilst sipping on a ‘g and t’. The Oakfield serves traditional Sunday lunches, small plates and afternoon teas in a great explorer’s home.

When visiting this vibrant city ensure you spend some time getting closer to nature in the surrounding Cheshire countryside. Just half an hour up the road by car is Anderton, a beautiful village on the river Weaver. Enclosed in a nature park along the river, the village has a historic boat lift that is a remarkable feat of engineering and the meet up point to embark on an epic journey on a heritage steamboat called The Daniel Adamson, or Danny for short, bound for Sutton Weaver. This beautiful boat was built in 1903 when she was known as the ‘Ralph Brocklebank’. Her raison d’etre was to tow long strings of barges laden with goods from the inland towns of Cheshire and the Potteries to the great seaport of Liverpool.

She made her appearance on the Mersey at a time when old-fashioned sailing ships still jostled for space on the Liverpool waterfront with the great steamships and ocean liners of the Edwardian era. She is entirely coal-powered.  As you approach the vessel one is stuck by the shiny exterior and her proud chimney which emits the smoke from the coal that powers her. It takes three days to fire up The Danny. As the volunteers stoke the fires her proud chimney begins to spurt out smoke, and she sets off down the river on her journey.’

Today, The Danny is one of the few remaining examples of its kind, lovingly restored by the Daniel Adamson Preservation Society. She was rescued from the scrap heap when she was bought her for £1 and with the help of lottery funding restored to her former Art Deco glory and full working order. A passionate volunteer force ensures that she sails smoothly on every voyage and keeps her in ship shape. She has been restored to exactly how they would have been in 1936, with opulant wood panels originally intended for the Oceanic luxury liners creating a sense of finery aboard the proud ship.

Ladies and gentlemen aboard the ship can order a drink from the small art deco bar and settle down on the seating covered in plush fabrics copied from the original photographs of the interior. Be sure to admire the carpets as you gather around the tables which also include hidden ash tray holders. Such a venue makes the perfect backdrop for a classy social soiree and the magic of the Danny can be experienced when you join the Nomad Wine and Cheese cruise.  

During a four-hour cruise, you can savour fine wines as you nibble on delicious cheeses. Tanguero Chardonnay is paired with Heler mature cheddar, while Les Boules Rose goes well with Orsom Breeze Brie, while Obdarre Rioja Crianza is well matched with Mango Chutney and cumin flavoured Red Leicester.

Feel the wind rippling through your hair, as the comforting smell of burning coal tickles your nostrils. It truly is a remarkable way to travel.  A cruise is a fine way to take in all views of the river’s wildlife on the way as you spy a heron fishing for an afternoon snack or a meandering swan as you sip on your glass of wine. On a calm, clear sunny day look out for landmarks like the Devils Garden, a bank on the river where Victorian’s liked to frolic.

The volunteers on board ensure you are kept refreshed and are only too happy to tell you all about the ship and how they became involved onboard. There are also interactive screens to tell you more about her heritage, which are great for all ages. Furthermore, children are very welcome on board and love the thrill of going to visit the captain’s cabin and giving the wheel a steer. Staff ensure that period teddy bears are hidden throughout the ship’s public areas, which bring smiles to the faces of the littlest guests.  The Sutton Weaver Swingbridge is a sight to behold as you approach the final destination. This journey can also be done in reverse.

Cheshire has so much to offer for families and adventurers, from the city smoke and all its charms to the peace of the countryside aboard a 20^th-century steamer. You will not be disappointed by a visit to Chester, which holds so much in store for the whole family.