Marlow. The place where Mary Shelley conjured up her tale of Frankenstein: a young scientist who undertakes an unorthodox experiment that unleashes a horrific monster into the world. Today, far from otherworldly and monstrous, the town’s current master of experimentation is none other than chef Tom Kerridge. His culinary lab, The Hand and Flowers sits tucked at the end of a bustling high street, serving up concoctions that resemble no monster, but familiar faces and friends.

The light at the end of a dark, tree-lined stretch, where the heart of Marlow ends, but its stomach starts to growl, the hanging wooden sign reading The Hand and Flowers glows in the distance. Beyond its white painted brick decorated with hanging baskets of ruby red flowers, exposed beams, wooden and brick features warm you through, with spotlights and glass chandeliers savouring a brightness into the dark evenings.

Welcomed with a seat and a sip of their signature cocktail, Pirates of the Caribbean, their rich combination of dark rum, fresh lime, caramelised sugar, pineapple juice and the real secret, velvet falernum liqueur ensures an unmatched smoothness. As the server places the glass down on the table, what appears to be the white tire figure of the Michelin Man comes into view. “Is that a Michelin tattoo?” Spinning back around with a smile that spells out immense pride on her face, she boasts “yes, it is!” Gazing up into the lofty ceiling, there the icon of culinary excellence is again. Nestled neatly on a ledge, the Michelin Man watches over the scenes of diners and drinks below: his presence, a continuing sign of approval.

There is nothing that displays quite the same level of affection and dedication as having your team’s successes inked onto your skin. Opening in 2005, The Hand and Flowers is the first pub to be awarded 2 Michelin stars and with staff and managers boasting 10-15 year careers investing in the restaurant, this is both a professional and personal achievement. As your eyes wander further, a 4 AA Rosettes plate corners a shelf, followed by a GQ Food and Drink Award, an AA Notable Wine Award and many more. Humble, but honest, these displays of fruition are just an indication for what is to arrive by plate.

Sat beneath a black and white portrait of a grimacing man clenching a pig’s trotter, Tom is a chef that is certainly involved with his food. No white cloths in sight, only two sets of cutlery rest against the simple, wooden table tops. Tom is all about honest food, the manager explains. This is a ‘pub’ after all and a pub serves proper food. Presented with a basket of chunky wedges of fresh, crisp sourdough bread, butter and a Hand and Flowers sausage roll with mustard mayonnaise, this is proper.

A proper pub serves proper pints. With four ale pumps, including a special Hand and Flowers ale and Marlow’s local, Rebellion, as well as larger, stout and cider on draft, expectation is taken seriously here. They even have fifteen cottage bedrooms available to book, just down the high street. Bed and breakfast may be as traditional as it sounds, but when your eggs are Michelin made, then free-standing roll top baths and hot tubs are just some of the treats that you can come to expect behind those doors.

On the table, every fine dining haunt has that dish that sings its soul and essence. Here, that dish is glazed omelette of smoked haddock and parmesan. Gossiping through the menu like two excitable children, this is the point the manager’s eyes light up. This is Tom. It’s pretty much the only thing on the menu that has remained unchanged, standing the test of time and still delighting diner’s tastebuds to this day. An old dog that still has its tricks, its rather retro ingredients – light sponge of whisked egg, torched creamy hollandaise, salty parmesan and flaked haddock – coat the mouth in the most indulgent embrace.

Somewhere along the Marlow to Henley Road is a tasteful detour to France. Slicing down the height of a pork and mushroom terrine and spreading it across a slice of sourdough, topped with mushroom truffle butter, the foundations are délicieux, but the produce, particularly British. The Hand and Flowers go to exhausting lengths to source the very best ingredients from independent butchers, fishmongers and vegetable suppliers. The result: a soulful menu that serves up respect, community and care in abundance.

A man who’s last meal would be fish and chips with a can of Lilt makes a familiar chef, one who starts with the feelings of comfort and home, then redesigns it. The fillet of beef comes resting on top of what is described as a potato buttermilk waffle. However, as the meal goes on, it is increasingly apparent that no description can convey what Kerridge creates. So crisp and delicate, it is almost impossible to predict the pillowy Yorkshire pudding-like texture that awaits inside. It takes a lot to make an onion ring Michelin star, but garnishing the top of this dish, it’s unapologetic batter is the perfect invite to tuck in.

Accompanying the “Fish du Jour”, something tastes recognisable, yet texturally disguised. A fond richness of tomatoey bolognaise takes your taste buds to lasagne, but not quite. Layers of squid replace the pasta sheets to epitomise this institution’s mastering of the fine balance between old and new. Bold, but unpretentious. Professional, but approachable. This is a style of cooking and service for which the team openly aspires.

By this point, an all too frequent feeling arises. Stomachs are satisfied, but a strange pudding shaped hole remains, just about the size of an English apple and cinnamon soufflé with calvados caramel, custard ice cream and stem ginger. Standing to attention within eight minutes, you are not kept waiting long before this weightless pillow is coated on your spoon and vanishing on your tongue. Tom’s wife, Beth has described how she wanted people to leave The Hand feeling as though they had just received a big hug. Mission accomplished.

The flavours are hearty, the company is engaging and the evening, a delight. Run by a normal guy who loves his food just as much as the next person, dining here is like watching the child in us grow up before our eyes and mould into their more sophisticated and mature selves. Most importantly, the true essence of playfulness is still there.

Greatly distinct from Shelley and her Doctor Frankenstein’s unrecognisable creation, Tom Kerridge is a nostalgic, master manipulator of time in his restoration of these old classics. In true British fashion, it doesn’t get much better than draft pints and starting your meal off with a sausage roll. Then you go and dollop a couple of Michelin stars on top.