There’s a flamingo in the bathroom. No, not a real one. He or she is about a metre tall, plaster-cast, eyeing the flamboyant Belle Époque gold fittings – and just about to get down to some serious preening. This is exactly the type of eccentricity that you can expect at Malmo Sweden’s most decadently fun hotel and restaurant, MJ’s Hotel.

MJ’s likes flamingos. Spotlights pick them out on the carpets flowing round the central atrium. They feature on the cushions that top iceberg-size pillows on ridiculously wide four-poster beds. Forget the grim greys of Scandi -noir investigations. It is party time for Malmo, Sweden’s third city, at MJ’s. So, symbolically the bar-slash-reception-slash-cafe multi-tasks.

As an antidote to contemporary pared-back minimalist Scandi design – all white light and functional natural timbers – MJ’s is a colourful riot of aubergine carpet, vibrant tropical rainforest prints and deep, dark pools of darkness. It’s Gauguin on a South Seas roll – flowers of paradise, flowers of passion. Undoubtedly a romantic getaway.

As Junior Suites go, the opulent rooms on the top fourth floor, with their exposed brickwork and mid-grey walls are warehouse ginormous. There are 17 electric power-points in Room 402. Will that make the Guinness Book of Records?   There’s so much space that the coffee-table is virtually a roundabout. Two table-top books, “Where Bartenders Drink” and “The Coveteurs: Personal Style, Personal Space” epitomise MJ’s fashionable vibe.

But If you fancy a quiet night in with the backgammon or chess set provided, there is a hefty silencer of two doors between you and the atrium. Pull the thick wooden shutters closed and you would never know that the rest of Malmo is partying just a few dozen metres away around the Lilla Torg square.

The hotel’s good-times-party-times photographic art-work is by Johann Gluck. A 1960s permissive collage of Afghan ruffles, a big Afro – another Guinness Book of Records contender – sexy black leather boots and cheesecloth blouses drifting open would not be out of place in a gallery of Contemporary Art.

When the hotel was built in the 1990s, the central atrium was an under-utilised void until the ESS group took over in 2017. Now, as a restaurant, the Italianate style cream decor, verdant ferns and trailing creepers, brings outdoors indoors. There is lush Garden of Eating planting and a chillax-cool playlist.

The 2019 Swedish White Guide identified MJ’s Chef of Chefs, Frida Nilsson, as the country’s culinary Rising Star. Above all MJ’s is a party animal so Frida produces menus made for sharing. On the tasting menu, paired with wine recommendations, three-into-two does go with the arrival of Spring Potatoes, Chard and Gooseberry, plus Various Cabbage.

Various Cabbage? Their marketing guru needs to get linguistically creative with that one. Something has gone missing in translation. In fact, the dish is European / Middle Eastern fusion: harissa representing Syrian immigrants’ heritage. One foodie announced that Malmo had the best Syrian food outside Syria. Arriving with goats yogurt and toasted Valencian almonds, this plate works a glamour makeover for the humble brassica.

Starters, mains and dessert are so last millennium. Now there’s Green Stuff, Fishy Stuff and Meaty Stuff. Pick ‘n mix as you like. Though with the Green Stuff of “Chard and Picked Gooseberries” there’s a dreamy fishy chunk that comes as close to steak as mackerel gets.

MJ’s takes pride in providing surprises so two wines arrive for the next course. A discretely oaked 2015 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay and a ruby red 2015 Baron de Ley Rioja with soft tannins. The Chardonnay is for the Arctic Char, the Eskimo’s trout. Then the Rioja pairs with pork. Though the headline for the Arctic Char is “Turnip and Zuchini”. Whilst the pork only just makes it into the small print after “Variety of Carrots.” Malmo folk are open-minded and adapting to the revolution: it is midweek and there is not a table to spare.

Again two wines appear for the last course. Strawberry Field  to drink with the intense sorbet. Then a rich liquor-meets-Madeira-meets-white-port Macvin du Jura to go with roast strawberries on a tahini tartlet.

Few countries are better than Sweden at breaking the mould. IKEA revolutionised furniture. ABBA reinvented the four minute pop-song whilst Volvo took automotive reliability to new heights. Currently Malmo’s throwing off its industrial past and – with new universities – reinventing itself as a Knowledge City. If writing your own future is the way to go then the fires that MJ’s and Frida Nilsson are lighting with  MJ’s Hotel may well spread beyond Malmo.