Amongst the 9,500 alleys of Fez’s labyrinthine Médina resides the luxurious Palais Amani, an 18 room boutique riad. A welcome of chilled flannel, iced lemonade and crisp biscotti epitomises the Palais’ invitation to relax into Fez life. Arabic calligraphy courses, bread and pastries baking lessons, The Fez School of Cooking, a Hamman and a hike with a picnic in the mountains – all give guests a deep understanding of local traditions. 

Jemima Mann Baha, now co-owner of the Palais Amani, first fell in love with Fez – oranges bursting with juice, bright blue skies in January and the huge royal palace brass doors – visiting from England as a 13 year old. When a waiter at the Cafe Renaissance insisted that her name should be Fatima, she never thought that one day in the future, she should return with her husband to meet her trio of sister-in-laws named Fatima.Drawn to Fez by the sky streaking pink  over the Merinide tombs at sunset, the henna souk and leisurely mint tea – Jemima and Abdel returned to buy “a very tired building in the medina” to gloriously resurrect it as the Palais Amani. 

From the 17th century the Palais was home to the Lahlou family who made their fortune trading with Manchester, possibly cotton and sugar. At one time over 50 of the family lived at the Palais, for it was a mark of shame for a son to leave home.

The Palais blends Arab-Andalusian architecture and Art Deco renovations, completed after the earthquake of 1928. Lanterns hang in the gardens of lemon, orange and pomegranate trees. Fountains play by the blue mosaic-tiled columns. A four year restoration project bestowed Arabian Nights interior design, chic style and essential air-conditioning to the rooms. Contemporary expectations are meet with a Nespresso coffee machine, mini-bar and ample charging points. Thick cedar shutters keep out the babble of the souks and the Muezzin’s dawn call to prayer. Each room is given its own unique fragrance. 

Exuding romance, the intimate Palais is a favoured honeymoon destination. The Grand Suite, occupying one entire floor of the south wing provides the grandeur of sultan living. It has a salon, his and her dressing rooms, a spectacular bathroom, with a vast shrine of a bath. Serene views across the garden and the medina then lift the eyes to the hills beyond. 

 

Breakfast can be taken in the Eden Restaurant or al fresco with birdsong. For some guests, after an early morning meditative yoga class, it is the second event of their day. In the spirit of the Palais the breakfast is an invitation to understand and taste Fez. 

 

Alongside fruits, yoghurt and eggs there is butter, oil and soft-cheese to accompany the warm flatbreads. Then there is a daily Discovery option: the brioche-based krachel, the vegetable soup of chorea with eggy bread, d’chicha which is a thick tomato and semolina soup accompanied by unleavened bread or M’hammer or Bghrir or Harira …..  

The desire to share Fez with the guests, to connect them to the city and its traditions, runs through the three menus of the Eden Restaurant too. The three course Market Menu, adapting to what’s on offer in the neighbouring souk, changes every week. For lighter appetites, recalling Fez’s there is a tapas style menu. An a la carte menu satisfies those in search of Moroccan classics such as a lamb tajine or duck with prunes.

Although it’s easy to find a calming and secluded spot at the Palais Amani, most guests are drawn to the roof terrace. As it’s home to the Fez School of Cooking there is frequently an aroma of smoked aubergine, orange blossom water or a tajine simmering. Chiffon curtained day beds, opulently embroidered cushions and tall planters make the roof-top gardens a fashion-shoot of Moroccan style. 

But what does Amani mean? It translates as wish or desire. The Palais is a retreat where the staff make wishes come true. Yet, months and years after returning home the ache of desire begins. The desire to return to the Palais Amani.