By Dea Jusufi
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Stepping into the pleasant buzz of Browns, I eagerly greet the hostess: ‘What a beautiful restaurant! I can’t wait for lunch.’ She replies with a warm smile and a nod: ‘Yes, it is a lovely brasserie.’ As she leads us to our table — past the polished grand piano, the staff in their spotless whites, and the rows upon rows of velveteen booths — I realise why I have been so politely corrected. To call Browns Windsor a restaurant would be to cast it in the unflattering shadow of an umbrella term. Paying homage to a gastronomic tradition that has endured for centuries, its charm as a brasserie is carefully curated and deserves to be acknowledged.

Brasseries rose to prominence in the wake of the French Revolution. The palace chefs — finding themselves explosively unemployed — opened their own eateries to continue to display their gastronomic gifts. With this in mind, Browns’ location feels rather tongue-in-cheek, serving both classic British dishes and fine French cuisine practically at the foot of Windsor Castle.

CLASSIC BRITISH DISHES AND ROYAL VIEWS

Browns’ architecture is eclectic, as the original brick tavern was refurbished to include a fashionable, modern mezzanine floor with bay windows and a two-floor outdoor terrace. The reason behind the renovation is no real mystery; now more patrons can sit and stare in awe at Browns’ unparalleled scenery. At the back of the property, the iconographic Windsor Castle is framed by wide windows, transforming every booth into a private viewing gallery. Mounted on a steep chalk cliff, this grand gothic palace has been the home of the royal family for centuries, and is currently the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world. From the brasserie’s front, guests are treated to unobstructed views of the River Thames as it winds its way toward the country’s capital. 

Browns serves classic British dishes and afternoon tea.

Browns Windsor is part of the Browns Bar & Brasserie hospitality chain, established by Jeremy Mogford in 1973. Beginning with a single brasserie burrowed in the quirky, labyrinthine Brighton Lanes, the company has since expanded to 24 inviting eateries across the United Kingdom.

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"At the back of the property, the iconographic Windsor Castle is framed by wide windows, transforming every booth into a private viewing gallery."

With a penchant for purchasing historic buildings and a flair for sophisticated gastronomy, it is no wonder Browns has now earned repute within the country’s most affluent locales. Among others, their brasseries can be found in London’s luxury district Mayfair, prestigious university towns Oxford and Cambridge, and, of course, the regal Windsor.

A STORY TO TELL

Those with a discerning eye will notice a bronze plaque positioned outside Browns Windsor’s doors. Read it before entering, as it serves as memorial to the property’s storied past. This brasserie was formerly a pub known as The Old Trout, which hosted legendary artists Jimi Hendrix, Blur, and Oasis in its intimate backroom music venue. A pre-performance contract written by Oasis, requesting that The Old Trout provide them a modest ‘24 cans of quality lager’ was actually auctioned in 2021 for £4000. Browns is not only an underrated spot for sightseeing, but a local landmark in its own right.

DEBONAIR DECOR

Browns has all the charming hallmarks of a classic brasserie. While the property is spacious, it still manages to feel snug and atmospheric with its dark wooden floorboards, black-painted beams and plush red velvet couches. The term ‘brasserie’ is French for ‘brewery’, as the serving of wine and beer with food was what made these establishments so renowned in the 18th century. Fitting, then, that the bar is Browns’ spectacular centrepiece. Designed with stylish wooden panelling and curved gold edges, the bar’s vast mirrored wall endlessly refracts rows of expensive champagne and kaleidoscopic bottles of liquor. Even the bartender feels plucked straight from the pages of Leonard Dove’s illustrations, a character filling carafes in his starched white linen uniform.

This brasserie may be archetypal, but it refuses to fall entirely into cliché. Inspired by Art Nouveau (and its preoccupation with organic objects), Browns’ intimate, moody decor is lightened by an evergreen touch.

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"While the property is spacious, it still manages to feel snug and atmospheric with its dark wooden floorboards, black-painted beams and plush red velvet couches."

Whether it’s the vases bursting with yellow lilies, the botanical prints framed on the walls, or their signature ornamental wallpaper — a verdant green with curling ferns and feathers patterned across it — every corner seems to teem with flora.

À LA CARTE DINING

Once seated, guests can expect an à la carte menu that balances classic British dishes with fine French cuisine. Begin with an indulgent starter such as the duck parfait, presented with toasted brioche slices and drizzled in a syrupy-sweet orange curd. An edible daisy-chain of chives, caper-berries and watercress sprouts adorn the plate, a thoughtful choice to complement the brasserie’s botanical decor. For an entrée, the steak frites is a classic, chargrilled to your choosing and served with garlic heirloom tomato and fries. Finally, finish as generously as you began with a serving of steaming apple crumble, slathered in vanilla-bean custard and decorated with purple pansies. For those longing to stay abroad, complete your three courses with their crème bruleé or the customary cheese and biscuit board.

AFTERNOON TEA

In keeping with Windsor’s singularly British spirit, Browns also offers an Afternoon Tea spread. While a pot of English Breakfast is tempting, given the setting, their varied loose-leaf tea collection is fit to satiate a fruity, floral, or spiced palate. Once your tea of choice (and a glass of Moët champagne) has been served, a sleek silver tray will be delivered to your table laden with traditional treats. Expect a delicate selection of savoury sandwiches to start; rich heritage hen-egg mayo, ham with dijon mustard, and sharp cheddar with bramley apple. The tray’s second tier promises spoonfuls of sweetness in the form of glazed chocolate rum delice, blackcurrant and vanilla profiteroles, and the quintessential slice of Victoria sponge. A plate of freshly baked fruit scones are served on the side, made complete with clotted cream, strawberry jam, and a dash of icing sugar.

So, when visiting Windsor, take the time to while away an afternoon at Browns. Don’t let its status as a chain brasserie dissuade you — it’s part of a proud tradition of gastronomic excellence, and will be sure to impress with its extraordinary views and traditional, flavourful dishes.

Dea Jusufi

Dea Jusufi is a writer and editor based in London. Fuelled by coffee (and freelance gigs), she's always planning the next big trip. Her interests lie in fine dining, nature writing, and learning about new cultures.