Growing crops on the Faroe Islands is a Sisyphean task; the Atlantic lashes relentlessly at the treeless islands. Every inch of the rugged terrain is veiled in green but cultivating food is nearly impossible. Nonetheless, it is here that Johannes Jensen launched Koks, the world’s best remote restaurant. A recent move to Greenland has made this widely acclaimed eatery all the more alluring.

Standing proud on the craggy shoreline of Greenland’s UNESCO World Heritage Ilulissat Icefjord is Ilimanaq Lodge, the temporary home of Koks. Relocated due to the renovation of its former site in the Faroe Islands, Koks is taking creative inspiration from its dramatic new surroundings. The talented chefs, led by Poul Andrias Ziska, work with fresh and locally sourced ingredients found within this expansive northern territory. The flavours here are undoubtedly unique and a compelling combination of both ancient and modern cooking techniques only enriches the restaurant’s exceptional culinary offering. Ziska transforms the limited edible resources of such an extreme environment and translates them into extraordinary delicacies.

Koks was founded in 2011 and immediately garnered the attention of food critics around the world. Today, the innovative restaurant’s earthy and refined style champions sustainability and the use of local produce. Ziska was named executive chef of Koks in 2013 and under his direction, it has racked up an impressive collection of awards. In 2015, for example, Koks won Best Restaurant in the Nordic countries from The Nordic Prize.

The restaurant was awarded its first star by the Michelin Guide Nordic Countries 2017 and in the same year, Ziska was named Denmark’s Chef of the Year by Den danske Spiseguide. Only two years later, Koks gained a second Michelin star and Ziska received the Michelin Guide Nordic Countries 2019 Young Chef Award. The accolades have continued to come and Koks’ fame has been growing. “Always inspiring to receive an award, of course. But it’s all about the guest who comes to us feeling satisfied and thinking we’re doing something well,” Ziska says.

Working in an environment as desolate as the Faroe Islands, and in an equally challenging location in Greenland, is ambitious. Ziska employs traditional Faroese culinary techniques such as ræst, the process of airdrying and fermenting meat that is a result of the islands’ food scarcity. Given the restaurant’s proximity to the ocean, both in its original location and at its new home, many of the dishes showcase sea creatures such as langoustines, scallops and sea urchins.

The chefs pair these with other local ingredients sourced from the natural surroundings and meticulously present dishes that seem to emphasise the natural forms and colour palette of the rich surroundings; shells and shrubbery are some of the natural elements that feature on plates here, whether they are to be eaten or not. Koks also champions modernity and experimentation. The juxtaposition of traditional techniques with a sense of innovation lends a unique element to Ziska’s creations. Despite the scarcity of typical ingredients of contemporary haute cuisine, Koks’s Michelin stars prove that the restaurant is more than capable of competing with its peers with every resource in hand.

Alongside its innovative food and impressive chef, Koks’ attraction is its unique landscape. As the world’s best remote restaurant, now in an equally exciting location, it is safe to say that Koks’ fame can be attributed – just a little – to its striking surroundings. The natural forms of the archipelago are extraordinary; sheer cliffs, tiny islands and a generous blanket of greenery make the Faroe Islands one of the most beautiful places in the world. Eighteen islands rise dramatically from the North Atlantic Ocean in which whales are often spotted. Greenland’s landscape is equally impressive. It isn’t hard to see where the team at Koks get their inspiration.

Koks offers a unique experience. Its incredible location is an obvious pull, but the culinary journey provided by the talented Ziska is of unparalleled value. With fresh and local food produced using a fascinating mélange of traditional and contemporary techniques, the sumptuous dishes here are truly memorable.