With the selection of the right property, a quick jaunt to tried-and-true beach destination Cancun is a fine antidote to the cabin fever you experienced last year. Although face masks and hand sanitizer will accompany swimwear, chic cover-ups and sunscreen in your beach bag for now, 2021 is the ideal time to re-discover Mexico’s home-grown Caribbean resort town in a more relaxed, “grown up” context. While the night clubs, American chain restaurants and souvenir emporiums you may remember from your college years still dominate Cancun’s “downtown,” JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa , a mile up main drag Avenida Kukulkan) is a most satisfying and sophisticated place to dip your toes back into international travel.

Part of what makes this “JW” a departure from “spring break” Cancun is a bold $40 million 2019 renovation executed by Mexico City-headquartered G+G Interiorismo’s Martha Gaos and Claudia Gonzalez. The designers approached the rethinking of 447 generously sized ocean-facing rooms and suites (including the heavenly “Presidential Suite’), with a cheerful but tasteful color palette, subtle use of Mayan and Yucatan folkloric motifs and clean-lined furnishings.

While the property is in a top-tier category of Marriott, the designers worked hard to ensure it blends boutique and major hotel group sensibilities and amenities. The 4,000 square-foot 14^th floor Presidential Suite reflects the ultimate realization of the Gaos and Gonzalez’s vision for the rest of the hotel. The stylish rethinking of the Cancun experience starts with a backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows that allow sunlight to flood the entire space by day. Executives or guests taking the suite over for a special occasion can wake-up to a perfect day or upcoming dinner party they can make their own with a conversation-starting sitting room, a perfectly stocked office space, full kitchen, bar area and dining room. Sleek oak accent panels ceramic tiles curated by renowned Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola tie the look together.

Executive space Club 91, also on the 14th floor, is accented with rich navy blue and olive-hued chairs and appealing coral reef ceiling décor. Updated menus and top shelf spirits (particularly tequilas and mezcals) further enhance the executive lounge’s ambiance, enabling guests on “bleisure” to plan one-on-one meetings or small gatherings against a backdrop where work and play seamlessly blend. Other rooms and suites follow suit aesthetically, with herringbone floors, blonde wood headboards, marble appointments, rainfall showers and a free-standing soaking tub. Every terrace overlooks tropical landscaping, breezy cabanas, Bali-inspired day beds and the outdoor areas of three of the hotel restaurants and the spa.

The property’s spacious Mayan-inspired spa, spanning two floors, meanwhile, offers a full range of body, face, hair and nail treatments. Beyond the reception desk (and a wall of international spa awards of excellence), there is a sparkling indoor pool,  juice bar, fitness center and gift shop, which are readily accessible to all resort guests. The treatment rooms, saunas, steam room, Jacuzzis and locker rooms located on the second floor, meanwhile, are accessible with a massage or treatment appointment. Couple’s treatments, men’s services and bridal packages are available. Spin, yoga and other fitness classes are available for an extra charge.

Should you opt to stay within the quiet sanctuary of the Marriott expanse, there are several  international dining options and casual eateries with street food-inspired items perfect for poolside dining or on your room’s terrace overlooking the beach. The JW’s restaurants include BeachWalk (the highlight: Grilled tacos stuffed with octopus or shrimp), Sedona Grill (go for the Mexican breakfast offerings and green juice), and the more formal (but not stuffy) Gustino Italian Grill. Gustino offers a la carte and tasting menus filled with vibrant mains and appetizers neatly tying together regional Italian techniques and recipes with Mexican ingredients. Guests are greeted at the entrance with a separate open-concept pasta kitchen that also serves as a site for pasta-making classes. The neighboring Marriott Cancun Resort is decked out with restaurants that can satisfy cravings for Japanese snacks and sushi (Kasai Izakaya) and Southeast Asian cuisine (Sasi Thai).

HANA, Cancun’s first-ever Polynesian white tablecloth restaurant, set to open in fall 2021 inside the Marriott Cancun Resort, has already generated excitement beyond the hotels. Under the direction of Executive Chef Pedro Maldonado, the kitchen achieves a fresh spin on Polynesian and Pan-Asian dishes using Quintana Roo region’s rich variety of produce, fish and seafood. Those coming later in 2021 can look forward to such dishes as spice- and smoke-forward sweet-and-sour pork ribs; luscious sushi-grade tuna poke; grilled and smoked octopus with squid-ink rice, and lobster cakes with accoutrements that were fruity yet not overly sticky or sweet. HANA’s wine menu, meanwhile, boasts a playful roster of Mexican, Argentine, Chilean and New Zealand wines that pair beautifully with the kitchen’s globally informed dishes.

The JW’s mixology program also received a major upgrade. While the property’s fine dining and ethnic restaurants abound with classic margaritas and tropical drinks, the just-launched “150 Margaritas” menu at the JW Lobby Bar is a full-on mixology showcase broken down into “Classic,” “Modern,” “Fusion” and “Exotic” categories. All 150 cocktails are built on a foundation of top shelf tequilas and mezcals, either neat or infused with black tea, beetroot, serrano chili and other locally-sourced botanicals. Although the cocktails are being promoted as “Instagram-able,” imbibers simply coming to the lobby bar—or any other bar-restaurant on property—for a well-crafted drink with quality ingredients and techniques will not be disappointed.

While there are many interesting dining options along Avenida Kukulkan opposite the hotels, Harry’s Prime Steakhouse & Raw Bar is both a stand-out and a five minute walk from the JW’s front door. While it has the bells and whistles of a big city North American steakhouse (table side salad and tartare preparation; the refrigerator with the restaurant’s best Kobe, Black Onyx and USDA Prime cuts; the raw bar and seafood display; Instagram-able drinks and desserts), it merits kudos for taking a minimalist approach to condiments allowing the natural flavors of Quintana Roo’s produce bounty to shine through.

Of course, as most Beau Monde readers are experienced travelers looking to get outside the comfort zone (especially after a year of playing it safe and staying close to home), they’re going to want to get off the proverbial and literal “beaten track.” Luckily, the hotel staff gets it, and one of the companies the concierge coordinates with, Tropical Incentives, DNC (tropicalincentives), is prepared to transport guests to a number of appealing touristy spots (Isla Mujeres, which also has nice diving beaches), golf outings, fishing excursions and trips to “nature parks” with zip lines and other adrenaline-driven attractions. Selvatica is one of the more inspired “nature parks” in the area.

While it has a menu of several packages mixing and matching traditional and “adrenaline ziplining,” cenote (natural spring) swimming, snorkeling, off-road driving adventures and  “Mexology,” it’s also thoughtfully put together trading in Disney-like trappings for boho-cool old cars and interesting bric-a-brac.

Tropical Incentives, however, excels in structuring bespoke day trips to Tulum and Chichen Itza as well as less familiar but equally worthwhile architectural sites such as Coba and Uxmal. All off-property tours are tailored to a group’s size as well as favorite activities, fitness levels and interest in local culture that predates Cancun’s establishment in 1970. Some of the most insightful and interesting packages offered include architectural and food tours of Cancun proper, led by guides who have witnessed Cancun’s growth first hand. 30-year veteran guide Francisco Moo is one of them, and his passion for architecture, local history (pre- and post- development) and food stirs excitement in those he leads.

According to Moo, the “Times Table” tour, which encompasses Mercados 28 and 23 and a few additional neighborhood restaurants, is a customizable food experience that can be organized based on budget, the size of a group, dietary restrictions and structured sit-down dining vs. an informal a la carte approach (where a participant can pick and choose what he or she eats and pay $1-3 U.S. per item). Although it is easy and inexpensive (about 60 U.S. cents) to take a local bus from the hotel to the markets, the guide and the hotel concierge point out that if you’re truly serious about getting an “authentic” experience, a tour like this will not only keep souvenir hawkers at bay but also provide expert guidance on how to locate and fully appreciate Cancun’s ever-evolving food scene.

“When you visit Cancun’s markets downtown, it’s not so much local cuisine,” affirms Moo as my group cleanly weaves through a gauntlet of vendors to get to a colorful stand dedicated to traditional Mexican sweets. “It’s cuisine from all over Mexico…an outgrowth of families from all over Mexico who moved to the area the area to pursue work and get a better quality of life. This gives way to markets that are one-stop shopping for everything from Oaxacan molé chicken to Veracruz-style fish and shrimp and various iterations of tamales, tacos, tortas and burritos from Pueblo, Chiapas and Michoacàn. I have found that the regional differences represented at all of these booths and restaurants can be surprising even for ‘experienced’ Mexican food fans.”

And each state or region, be it Chiapas, Michoacán, Guanajuato, Oaxaca, Jalisco or Veracruz, not only means different flavor profiles and preparations, but also differing times when certain dishes will be available. A guide like Moo will clue you in on what’s available when, and how to order it correctly. Tacos are only a breakfast food in some regions—and at some of the mercado’s stands—while tamales are only available in the evening. If you just want a bite, ask for an “orden,” or single portion, instead of a full dish with rice and beans. No matter what you sample, everything you’ll eat has its origins in a family recipe that the owner or another relative lovingly prepares and carries forward. If time allows, Moo may make a stop at the local outpost of Veracruz-based Cafe Andrade to sample the café lechero and torta de elote (sweet cornbread).

“While Mercado 28 is largely geared towards tourists, local families come to spend the day and for good reason, with the mix of full-service patios, single stand vendors and wandering musicians,” continues Moo. “Mercado 23 is the place where residents stock up on everyday provisions. Even with some stands, this is all about the specialty butchers, cheesemongers, fish vendors and produce stands with glorious displays, bright wall art and some items one won’t see everyday, such as cocoa bean plants.”

The JW Marriott’s Cancun offers the best of the old (based on your personal memories of Cancun), the really old (the ruins a few hours away) and other things that will feel very new—especially as you get reacquainted with international resort travel. The best thing about it is, like one of Moo’s food tours, you can pick and choose what appeals to you the most.

Author’s Note: While there remain many questions and concerns about the safety of travel domestically and abroad at press time, my editors and I hope this story will provide inspiration on how you can plan for interesting, enlightening and responsible journeys in the future once circumstances allow for travel with confidence—such as increased availability of a vaccine or the dramatic slowing of new cases over the next few months. In the meantime, be sure to regularly consult sites such as the U.S. State Department (state.gov), the Centers for Disease Control (cdc.gov) and the official tourism offices and government sites of your intended destination.