Sicily is what many Italians call the “Real Italy”. Located only a few miles off the mainland at the toe of the boot, this large island is a dream destination full of beaches, baroque villages, mountains, volcanoes and wine estates.

It is possible to easily tour this Italian island hitting many of the popular places as well as some off the beaten path. It is a health food lovers paradise where the food is fresh and organic including the wines and will barely put a dent in your wallet or inches on your waistline. Forget the South Beach Diet. The “Sicily Diet” the most delightful, enjoyable way to eat eat eat, drink drink drink and lose lose lose.

Here’s a suggested Sicilian city by city playbook below to choose from including Palermo, Panarea, Taormina, Noto and Siragusa/Ortigia.

PALERMO

Palermo, Sicily is a good first stop. Palermo is Sicily’s capital city that today includes a variety of UNESCO World Heritage sites to see. This 2700-year-old city has always been multi-cultural with many ethnicities leaving their mark, including Phoenicians, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Jews, Swabians, Angevins and Spanish. Must sees include Teatro Massimo, the largest theatre in Italy and one of the largest in Europe, along with the Cathedral, The Royal Palace, the Church of St. Giovanni of Eremiti, the Church of Martorana, the Church of Magione and the old markets like Vuccini and Capo Ballaro and a variety of unique fountains.

Palermo is a bustling city. The main thoroughfare is a one stop shop for everything from upscale fashions to touristy souvenir stands to pizzerias and historical sightseeing spots. It starts as Via della Libertà, considered the Champs-Élysées of Sicily and continues at the other end as a closed-tourist-friendly shopping street in the historic district. It is fun to cruise the promenade back and forth several times, soaking in all the sights, sounds and smells. Almost every church has a wedding in progress. Love is definitely in the air in Palermo!

Be sure to try an arancini, the infamous fried rice ball filled with a variety of stuffing from meats, cheeses, veggies etc….so simple, but so good when it is cooked fresh for you. Same goes for cannoli. It’s best to go to a shop where the empty pastry shells are sitting in the window and have the shopkeeper fill one up fresh for you with sweetened ricotta cheese. In the patisserie windows everywhere, you can see colorful Cassata cakes, a Sicilian pastry made with layers of sponge cake, sweetened ricotta, chocolate chips, candied fruit and marzipan. A couple of days in Palermo are enough to cover the basics in this active city filled with good energy.

For accommodations, one suggestion is the gorgeous Art Nouveau hotel that dates back to the 19th Century, the Excelsior Hotel Palermo. Stay in a junior suite which is spacious with a nice marble bathroom and huge closet space. The hotel is conveniently located in the center of Palermo, within walking distance to all the major sightseeing attractions, shops and restaurants. It has a gym, restaurant and bar plus a lovely breakfast buffet with a wide selection of Sicilian specialties

PANAREA

Panarea is a hidden jewel off the main island of Sicily. It is the second smallest of the eight Aeolian Islands, which are a volcanic archipelago. During summers the population swells with VIPS from all walks of life, including European aristocrats, celebrities and billionaires visiting their island homes or coming by megayachts to play in this secret sandbox. San Pietro is the central port town with picturesque white-washed homes and hotels and where most of the island’s restaurants, bars and shops are located. Transportation is by foot or golf cart on this eco-friendly island where no cars are allowed. The island is divided into three parts: Ditella to the North, Darutto to the South and San Pietro in the Center. Across the sea is Stromboli island where visitors can catch a glimpse of the volcano spewing red lava in the air at night.

“Those who know the island best eschew its glamourous image, preferring to describe it as a secretive, down-to-earth-place, a hideaway where little happens and simple pleasures rein supreme.”

Panarea is one of the last safe havens for understated luxury and it is still one of the best kept scene secrets in the Mediterranean. It has been a UNESCO site since 2000.

A great choice to stay at on this charming island is the delightful Quartara Boutique Hotel.Transportation to Panarea and the surrounding Aeolian Islands is by hydrofoil. The hotel swoops you up with their own private golf cart at the port and whisks you up the winding narrow pathway to your panoramic “home” on Panarea. You will be greeted with a lemon-flavored granita welcome drink. This is a  Sicilian favorite refreshing “drink” made with flavored ice. Be sure to try many different flavored granitas while in Sicily.

Quartara is perched on a hillside overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea just a few minutes walk to the port. Their tagline says it all, “A place for you to dream”. Yes indeed, Quartara is a place where you can have sweet dreams in their eclectic Bohemian-esque, artsy rooms with ornate teak furniture mixed with Moroccan-style handicrafts, lace details, hand-painted tiles and canopy beds. Request a room with a terrace sea view. Take time to enjoy the hotel’s hot tub adjacent to the sun solarium lounge area surrounded by white-washed walls with fresh fuschia flowers growing. The open-air breakfast area serves up a nice buffet of home-made goodies while lunches and dinners are luscious at Broccia del Quartara.

Take to the trails, hiking both north and south to see the panoramic coastline, beaches and quaint hillside homes. In the evening be sure to stop by the famous Raya Hotel to have a sunset aperitivo from the terrace while being treated to a red light show of lava compliments of Mother Nature coming from the Stromboli volcano. Try some of the restaurants along the port, like the more casual Da Adelina as well as the more refined Cusiritati with plenty of homemade pastas to choose from. Hotel Raya’s nightclub is the spot for partying ’til dawn and then settle back into dreamland at Quartara Hotel. Panarea is called an island for “slow living”. Stay at Quartara Boutique Hotel so you too can daydream from sunrise to sunset. Panarea hotels are open late Spring till early Fall with peak season being summertime.

TAORMINA

Taormina is one of Sicily’s most popular spots. Perched high on a hilltop, the town offers spectacular views as if you are watching drone footage nonstop. It’s Greek-Roman ruins including the ancient open-air theatre that hosts the annual summer film festival is a big tourist draw.

For a value-added boutique hotel try Hotel Villa Riis in Taormina. It is a family-owned and operated property which gives you the feeling of going back in time to the Baroque period living in your very own villa overlooking Taormina Bay below and Etna volcano in the distance. The location is ideal, being only steps from the main shopping street. It has a pool and tennis court so for fitness folks like me, this is an added bonus.

The Belmonde Grand Hotel Timeo is a classic choice located near the theatre. Be sure to dine at Ristorante Granduca located in a 15th Century villa on the main street called Corso Umberto, serving traditional Sicilian dishes with a wow factor panoramic view over the sea and villages below.

Granduca’s sister venue along the seaside, La Cambusa Ristorante with an adjacent beach club in Giardini Naxos at sea level in Taormina is a completely different experience. This is a lively place that also boasts great DJ’s.

Walking along the shopping street, Corso Umberto, you will see a wide variety of shops for fashion, colorful ceramics and most importantly Sicilian treats like cannelli, cassata cakes, gelati, granita (shaved flavored ice), and of course plenty of pizzerias. A very special ceramics shop worth a look is Don Corleone Objects with pieces handcrafted by artist Antonio Forlin. The triangular Trinacria objects of art, are perfect for souvenirs as this is the symbol of Sicily with the head of Medusa and three bent legs which can be found in most shops and souvenir stands. Also, abundant are the ceramic ‘royal heads’ everywhere you turn, supposedly inspired by legends of wild love affairs. A purse store called Astore sells handbags that are like works of art with colorful patterns painted on them.

Artistic expression is found at almost every place you turn to in Taormina. If you take the time to climb some of the steps off the Corso you can find even more hidden gems like outdoor art exhibitions and cooking schools. Musicians also take to the streets to perform for tourists.

The most famous granita shop, Bam Bar is worth a pitstop. Touring the Greek Theatre is a must and climbing its many steps is well worth the view. One of the best places for pizza is Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro with outdoor garden seating in a casual setting. The hardest part is deciding which type of pizza toppings to get. For an after-dinner drink, check out the extremely stylish Morgana Bar just off Corso Umberto.

If you want to splurge and experience ultra-luxury, head over to the privately owned, gated hotel called The Ashbee. This property is beyond luxury in every way. First, the fact that non-hotel guests, cannot get beyond the locked gate, makes it super exclusive….no tacky tourists or paparazzi allowed here. The interior design is impeccable with spacious rooms/suites and gorgeous views. There is also the Michelin chef residing over St. George Restaurant by Heinz Beck. It is conveniently located next to a charming little church so if nuptials are being planned, it’s only a few steps away from saying “I do” to your wedding night/honeymoon suite. There are also several churches worth a look-see on Corso Umberto.

NOTO

Noto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is probably one of the most beautiful Baroque cities in the world. It was built entirely in the 18th Century after a terrible earthquake in 1693 destroyed the original city of Noto Antica nearby. Being rebuilt all in this one century accounts for its uniformity in architectural style.

The entire Noto Valley has become an ‘insiders’ destination for visits and investing among in-the-know Europeans and trendsetters ahead of the packs. It helps to know or befriend a local to get the real scoop on Noto. It’s nice to have both a center city and countryside experience and pick your accommodations accordingly.

San Carlo Suites conveniently located in the historic district overlooking Basilica of San Nicolo and Via Nicolaci is a real treat to stay at. The GM, graciously greets you nearby at Corso Vittorio Emanuele where they are located since the historic street allows no cars. Request the best suite, “Suite San Nicolo” with a little balcony directly overlooking Cathedral di Noto (Cattedrale di San Niccolo, the most important Roman Catholic place of worship in Noto and seat of the bishop). From the suite, you can hear the church bells ringing softly. It has a separated seating and sleeping area. The white linen sheets are freshly pressed, topped with lace detailing which is absolutely divine to sleep on. The bathroom is stylishly remodeled and quite spacious with Ortigia toiletries on the shelf.

San Carlo Suites is a special find. It is in a 19th Century Baroque building lovingly restored into a 6-room suite hotel. The tiles, archways, artwork, furniture et all were so perfectly placed. Waking up to the smell of fresh pastries provides a great aromatic wake up call. The breakfast room is intimate and sweet as is the breakfast buffet table. The fresh tomato bruschetta topped with homemade ricotta cheese is like a true local delicacy worth all the calories!

For sightseeing, walk the length of Corso Vittorio Emanuele taking in the sights which always includes some churches. Love seems to be in the air all over Sicily. More weddings were in progress here. Directly next store to San Carlo Suites is the renowned patisserie Caffe Sicilia, founded in 1892 and today is a world symbol for traditional Sicilian confections. Besides the pastries and cakes, they serve many flavors of granita.

Progress upwards to Palazzo Castelluccio to take a private tour of this 18th Century palace. It was recently bought by a Frenchman who has been restoring it back to its original grandeur. Also tour Palazzo Nicolaci. For a coffee break, venture into the unique concept shop catering to the hipster set called Anche Gli Angeli just around the corner from San Carlo Suites on A. da Brescia. By day it’s a dining establishment with eclectic, artsy items for sale and by night it turns into a live music venue. In the past it was the crypt where the religious were buried and today it retains its vaulted walls.

Try Cantina Modica that is part of his Palazzo Modica on Via Nicolaci for an authentic Sicilian dinner accompanied with wines from the family’s vineyards of the proprietor Prince, Alessandro Modica Di San Giovanni. You can even tour the family home upstairs which is open to the public as a museum. Prince Alessandro also created Aperitives Palazzo Landolina, Buffet Siciliano in a private palazzo courtyard nearby.

Head to the surrounding Noto countryside for a few days and nights near Eloro Beach. Try Zahir Country House, a charming boutique hotel that combines the flavor of an ancient 19th century farmhouse with design and contemporary art. It is truly a peaceful, artsy oasis. Zahir is immersed in nature among almond trees, ancient olive trees, carob trees, citrus groves and the sea nearby. The Vendicari Nature Reserve is only a few minutes from the property by foot, bicycle or by Zahir’s private golf cart. The secluded beach is just yonder reachable only by foot past the reserve.

Zahir Country House was recently transformed by new Italian owners, the cool couple, Luigi and Alessia. It was given the “Alessia Art Touch” as she is also an art dealer and founder of M’ama Art. So now the hotel has an artsy feel and flair. They added an infinity pool and more rooms to this boutique beauty. There is also a gazebo just below the rooftop terrace, an ideal spot for a sunset aperitif sipping their own M’ama Art wine overlooking the countryside.

A nearby drive is Siracusa and the little island of Ortigia, its historic district with winding narrow, medieval passageways weaving around the town. More churches, shops and Sicilian eateries can be found here in this village sitting along the waterfront.

Many of us who travel to Europe love Italy and have been to Rome, Tuscany, and Florence, but there are so many other amazing jewels to explore. Put Sicily on your short list and you will not be disappointed. But for now, Ciao Sicily…until next time!