Sunlight glints on smooth waters as the old paddle steamer motors gently along the shores of Lake Geneva, gliding quietly past neat rows of vines cascading to the water’s edge. The ferry halts briefly at the quay to drop off and pick up its guests, where locals rush to snag the best seats on board, stretching their legs out on striped deck chairs dotted about the front deck, eyes fixed on the horizon.

The Swiss flag flaps at the mast, billowing in the breeze as the steamer, named Belle Epoque Montreux after its next destination, gathers pace before flying high as it pulls away from the shore.

This stop is Lausanne-Ouchy, where pedestrians, cyclists and roller bladers share the flowered and tree-lined quays, first opened in 1901. Like Montreux, Lausanne is among a string of beautiful waterfront cities fringing the lake in the stunning Vaud Region, also including Nyon, Morges and Yverdon-les-Bains, all part of the ‘Beau Rivage’ or ‘beautiful shoreline’.

Found in a French-speaking corner of Switzerland, this charming canton, steeped in centuries of culture-rich history, has long been a magnet for artists, musicians, actors and chic holidaymakers with the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel among stylish famous visitors attracted to the region for its tranquil lakes, rugged mountains, terraced vineyards and crisp alpine air. David Bowie married model wife Iman in Lausanne’s city hall in 1992. Cool in itself, yet even better when you discover there’s also wine tasting in the cellars…

A Five Star Grand Hotel on Lake Geneva: Hotel Royal Savoy Lausanne

It’s just a short stroll up the hill from the ferry stop to one of the area’s grandest historic chateau-like hotels – the Hôtel Royal Savoy, standing tall atop a hill set in landscaped parkland, shaded by towering pines.

Dating back to 1909, this historic hotel’s a jewel in The Bürgenstock Selection, one of Switzerland’s largest deluxe hotel groups, renowned for dazzling discerning international guests with its exclusive service and high standards of luxury.

With traditional wooden shutters, fairytale turret rooftops and tastefully appointed interiors, the Hôtel Royal Savoy blends a wonderful mix of old school glamour with modern comforts. The contemporary Park Wing was added to the historic main building in 2015 during a major renovation, notching the room count to 196 and home to a penthouse with 3000sqft of space inside and out.

Regal Rooms and Suites at the Hotel Royal Savoy Lausanne

Rooms with a lake view are the ‘piece de resistance’ option overlooking the tranquil waters of Lake Geneva and out across the area’s residential rooftops to the mountains.

The birds eye views resemble expressionist paintings of Swiss artists. In the foreground, sailboats dot the scene in splashes of white and jagged mountain ranges frame the picture, where wisps of cloud gather. On a sunny day you can spot a dusting of snow on Mont Blanc’s precipitous peaks.

Wrought iron-terraced balconies are shaded under cheerful sunshine yellow awnings overlooking diners enjoying a late brunch at white table-clothed tables on the terrace below, while other guests enjoy peace reading a book on benches in secluded spots of the verdant garden.

Inside, bathrooms are grand with sunken marble baths and walk-in showers. ‘No-touch’ lamps and large comfy beds with luxe thread-count linens and Swiss chocolate on your pillow ensure a ‘bonne nuit’.

Spa Life

Building the modern wing also created space for state-of-the-art spa, The Spa du Royal, where an aquamarine slither of a 20-metre pool’s a highlight. Interconnecting heated indoor and outdoor swimming areas allow guests to swim from the inside out breathing in the Alpine air while bathing in warm water.

Found at the centre of its ground floor, the wellness area stretches over 1,500 square metres, with spa staff on hand for the provision of towels, water, apples and fluffy bathrobes. Facilities wise, there’s a well-equipped gym, a series of hydrotherapy pools, whirlpools and Jacuzzis and saunas with a dedicated area for women, steam rooms, relaxation spaces and eight treatment rooms.

Treatments include indulgent oxygenating facials, a wonderful jet lag treatment and body scrubs in the Hammam. The Jardin de Songes ritual is recommended. The treatment includes a gentle body scrub with Mauritian sugars followed by a relaxing body massage to help disconnect and revitalise. 

Sunset at the roof terrace bar

Sundowners on the Royal Terrace and SkyLounge are enjoyed with 360° panoramic views of Lake Geneva and the rooftops of Lausanne and Mont Blanc.

This place is a sunset lovers hot spot, with a selection of creative curated cocktails, fine wines and small bites.

Eat in

Breakfast is a regal affair at La Brasserie du Royal with a spread fit for kings. A rainbow of fruit neatly stacked in crates is arranged in a market stall-like layout. There’s a variety of crisp salads, freshly squeezed orange juice and excellent strong black coffee. If you can get past the tempting cheese board, which is packed with such Swiss delights as creamy La Tomme Vaudoise then, there’s warm flaky pain au chocolat and croissants to consider.

Eggs are cooked to order and the eggs benedict is worth lingering longer for with perfectly poached farmers eggs perched on an English muffin, with a dollop of rich hollandaise sauce on top and a choice of smoked salmon, ham or spinach. Meanwhile, mimosas are poured using Grand Vintage Brut Moet & Chandon.

Enjoy your start to the day in the sunroom of the bistro or al fresco as tables spill out to the patio where waiters in waistcoats shoo away tiny birds, their beady eyes fixed on the hotel’s perfect pastries.

Hotel Restaurant La Brasserie du Royal

Chef Paolo Principe heads up the culinary operation at the Brasserie du Royal. Rated 15 in the 2024 Gault Millau, seasonal four-course menus reinvent classic brasserie dishes. Think arctic char with a pea tart made of delicate pastry and drizzled with almond milk coulis, chicken supreme in a delicious wine sauce and an elevated elegant variation on a strawberry Eton mess topped with gold leaf.

The wine cellar is a treasure trove of excellent Swiss gems and renowned French Grand Crus. Leave yourself in the sommelier’s hands for top notch pairings of predominantly Swiss wines.

On summer nights, perch fish from Lake Geneva are char-grilled and served with chips with smoked tartare on the terrace at convivial barbecue evenings.

The Lobby Lounge and Lounge Bar or ‘Goûter du Royal’ is the place to enjoy casual eats and graze on a selection of small bites including in-house sweet patisserie or savoury antipasti share boards.

Eat out in Lausanne

Cosy bistro Sardine is an ideal place for an early evening bite and hangout close to the Cathedral where you hear the nightwatchman (or watchwoman) ring a bell on the hour between 10pm and 2am each night to let the locals know all is safe in the town, a tradition dating back to the 14th century…

Sardine’s traditional minty green and white striped chairs and its jungle of plants are the off-beat setting for creative plates like ‘liquid pizza’…

Exploring the Sights in and around Lausanne

This beautiful under-the-radar lake-side city is located on the north shore of Lake Geneva or Lac Léman to the locals. Built on three hills with cobbled streets leading to squares with fountains in its historic old town, known as the Cité and its 12-13^th century cathedral.

Lausanne is also the Olympic capital of the world, where over 40 international sports federations HQs are based. The Olympic Museum is sure to elicit a marathon of emotions. Here you can relive great Olympic moments and feel the pulse of champions gone by.

Lausanne’s a tranquil and green city, with an Alpine nip in the air and plentiful green spaces to explore. Home to 360 hectares of parks and public gardens, Lausanne is also looped with 60 kilometres of cycling routes, and 11 kilometres of shoreline. Glacier 3000 and the Alps are within two hours train journey away.

What else is there to do?

Taste the local Lavaux wine

A 15-minute train ride to the terraced vineyards of the Lavaux (free with your travel pass), is a must-do. Stroll downhill through emerald vineyards past the vines laden with grapes neatly lined up in stone terraces, cascading down to the lakeside village of Cully. The terraces were built by monks who planted vines here to make wine here as far back as the 11th century. This now UNESCO heritage site is ideally situated to soak up what the locals describe as the ‘three suns’ – the sun, the reflected light from heat-retaining walls and from the lake.Take in historic family vineyards like Domaine de Crausaz founded in 1515 and the place for a glass of the local zesty white, Chasselas and a tasty cheese fondue.

Visit the galleries and gorgeous gardens

The new Platforme 10 arts district plateforme10.ch has three buildings showcasing classic and modern art in world class museums built in brutalist style and located on a sprawling former train yard close to Lausanne’s train station. There’s also an on-site café at Platforme 10, with a flower-filled art installation called Le Nabi.

The fragrant rose garden of Place du Générale Guisan, which has over 130 different species of flowers is worth a wander.

Getting there

Found in the Ouchy district of Lausanne the Hôtel Royal Savoy overlooks Lake Geneva and for visitors arriving by private jet or helicopter a 15-minute transfer from Lausanne-Blécherette airport.

Transfers from Geneva Airport take around an hour from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg and it’s just over two-and-a-half-hour journey from Zurich. Paris and Milan are also in easy reach, within just three and a half hours by train.