From a distance, Hicce in Coal Drops Yard seems unassuming – just another restaurant in a city already full of great restaurants. However, do not be fooled; there is more to this place than meets the eye. Hicce, a hot spot in London’s culinary world, is where you’ll find succulent smoked meats, old world pickling techniques and vibrant floral cocktails set in the ambiance of jazzy disco beats and a New York style loft and adjoining expansive terrace.

At the helm of this ship is fan-favourite Great British Menu winner, Pip Lacey, and her comrade front-of-house extraordinaire Gordy McIntyre. In 2018, Hicce – pronounced “ee-chay” – opened its doors to the world, showcasing to culinary aficionados an epicurean journey with menu items of a weird and wonderful kind, quite unlike any that of any other classic restaurant. Tucked behind the clamouring of commuter train arrivals and departures of Kings Cross Station in London is the gentrified retreat of Coal Drops Yard, and home to Hicce.

Desolate, derelict and drained. Words used to describe the space where once lay stagnant housing and sheds full of the coal that kept London warm every winter. As there became less need for burning fuel, the area was taken over by illegal rave parties and soon became a habitat for crime. It is hard to imagine that wicked past, now looking at the manicured plaza of Coal Drops Yard, with its organic coffee shops, terraces and upmarket stores. At the time the vicinity was being transformed, Pip and Gordy saw it as a prime opportunity to move on from their prospective roles and finally open their own restaurant.

Pip was formerly head chef and protégé to Angela Hartnett of Murano, a Michelin-star contemporary Italian restaurant in upscale Mayfair. Over Pip’s time cooking at Murano she worked her way up in the ranks, proving her excellence in unique cooking techniques and showcasing classic cookery with a modern twist. Pip first appeared on beloved television series Great British Menu in Season 10, which aired in 2015. In 2017, she returned to the competition and won the privilege for cooking the starter at the banquet celebrating 140 years of Wimbledon.

Pip’s love for authentic cooking with cultural influence with  diverse plates of dense beer bread and tart seabream ceviche as she chats away – her love for food and cooking emanating from her entire process of work.

Hicce offer more beyond the plate with exposed ceiling beams and low hanging brass lights add a charm of rugged, yet polished industrial chic to the space, and the same can be said about the eccentric menu items that complement the setting perfectly. The variation of high and low dining tables offers a relaxed feel to the space, and the terrace is optimal for dining on the rarer warmer nights in London as the sun sets over the façade of the neighbouring buildings.

Hicce is a place of curiosity: you’re never quite sure of what will be on the plate. Tiny dots of puree or sauce pack punches of flavour, and a dish simply of grilled asparagus with egg yolk sounds basic – but it’s anything but. The entire dining experience is an adventure – start to finish. From the classic charm of charcuterie boards, to dazzling grilled octopus on a bed of blackened squid ink risotto. The best way to enjoy both food and drink is to order several plates to be shared between friends across the table.

Start off the unique dining experience by curating your own charcuterie board comprising of tasty beer and rye bread, delicious international cheeses, bite size pieces of smoked meats and jars of tangy pickled cabbage and onion. Main courses of tender pork belly and lightly crisped tempura paneer is accompanied by miso butter potatoes. This is a classic example showcasing the fusion of humble British cuisine made complex with unique umami flavours, vinegary pickled vegetables and intricate plating techniques.

These “main” courses come in two sizes (and two price points) so that wait staff can accommodate for any size of dining party. While some may argue that sharing food is a thing of the past, others would say it is contemporary and cultural. Without question, it is the best way to guarantee a taste of everything on the menu, and Hicce Coal Drops Yard has the option of a set menu – titled “Hicce Experience”. The set menu has the option of food only or wine included – aptly titled “Wine not!”. The Hicce Experience is the best way to sample the best of each section of the menu. The waitstaff are eager to share house favourites when it comes to wine suggestions or pairings – and there’s plenty to choose from; from white to red, rose and orange – Hicce has it all.

Dishing up eclectic plates that tantalise the tastebuds, and in a space that is more akin to a New York City art gallery than a restaurant in central London, Hicce is a tour-de-force not to be overlooked. Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Hicce can claim itself a proud member of the Coal Drops Yard alumni offering unique dining experiences and service with a smile.