The Luxury Travel Magazine
The Luxury Travel Magazine
A river of straw boater hats trickles down the high street in a genteel market town. The sunshine makes the Thames glisten as coxes and pairs scull down it. Spectators arrive in their finest attire -the men in blazers or pinstripe suits and the ladies in their best dresses. All are here to enjoy the rowing action at the world’s most famous garden party-come-sporting event catering to high society. This is the Henley Royal Regatta.
In the Chilterns valleys, in Oxfordshire, you’ll discover the quiet English village of Henley-on-Thames. Life here revolves around the river and rowing is a key part of its heritage. The Henley Royal Regatta sees people travel from all over the world gather, either as competitors or as spectators. Since it is the social highlight of the year, attendees like to dress to impress. Choosing what to wear to Henley Royal Regatta is an exciting part of the occasion. Some might say fashion is just as important as the event itself.
A Royal connection
The town has been associated with royalty since the 12th Century. In 1179 King Henry II bought land here and the Thursday market was granted by a charter of King John around 1269. King William III even stayed at Fawley Court, designed by Christopher Wren, on his way to London during the Civil War, in 1688. Henley flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries, trading glass, malt, corn and wool. From Henley, London was supplied with timber from the Chilterns and grain from the surrounding agricultural land. The river was the perfect place to transport it. The current five-arched and distinctive bridge was built and opened in 1786, and the tower of St Mary’s church nearby dates to the 15th Century. Even older than this it is believed that the Old Bell in Bell Street was built in 1325, the oldest known building still in existence in Henley.
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"A river of straw boater hats trickles down the high street in a genteel market town."
The town is renowned for the prestigious Henley Royal Regatta rowing event. It was first established here in 1839 because of the straight part of the river known as the Henley Reach. The idea for an annual event was suggested by Captain Edmund Gardiner. The Regatta became ‘Royal’ in 1851. Today it is the essence of an English social event, attended by the cream of British society and Henley Royal Regatta is undoubtedly the best-known of its kind in the world.
The original event took place on a single afternoon but proved so popular that by 1840 the racing had been extended to two days; in 1886 two became three, in 1906 the event was extended to four days and in 1986 the regatta was extended to five days, with an increase in the maximum entry for certain events. The first royal patron of the regatta was Prince Albert in 1851, but since his death the reigning monarch has always consented to be patron, meaning the event can be called Henley Royal Regatta.
A sporting event with social flair
You will see world champions and Olympians competing across a variety of races covering all distances. The rowing takes place over five days and culminates in a thrilling finale. Participants from all over the world compete including the top universities in the States such as Harvard and Yale pitting themselves against Oxford and Cambridge. For those watching the action the most coveted invitations are to the private member areas such as Leander Club, founded in 1818, or to the Stewards Enclosure.
These are places where you are either a member or someone’s guest. Perfectly positioned with a view of the finish line the dress code is almost as strict as the VIP enclosures at Ascot, hems must be below the knee and straw hats and bonnets are favoured over fascinators. The area boasts two Grandstands from where one can watch the racing with sweeping views of the regatta course, Henley town and St Mary’s Church tower. There is the chance to meet friends in the bar and admire paintings in the art gallery and prize tent. Punters can enjoy pre-bookable three-course lunch or a choice of afternoon teas as well as options to graze on seafood platters and sushi.
Riverside Action
As you meander down the river, you’ll pass a clutch of private rowing clubs that have been established for centuries. There is no doubt that this is one big social soiree, that can be enjoyed whether you are a rowing fraternity, charity sponsor, old schoolboy network, socialite, or a simple sports enthusiast. As you make your way to whatever club you are in for the day, you pass local pop-up champagne vans to picket-fenced pubs and meet people from all walks of life. The whole riverbank is buzzing with activity and joviality.
Chinawhite VIP Party
Located at the end of the canal path, away from all the genteel garden parties, is the exclusive Chinawhite enclosure facing Temple Island. This is the place high-society revellers come to party. One can reserve VIP sections inside the tent and listen to top DJs such as David Morales spin the decks. Tables have a £1,000 minimum spend, while it is at least £500 for an outside table with a front row seat to the rowing. This makes it an ultra-exclusive location.
The garden is picket fenced, lined with sports cars and deckchairs. There are tables complete with parasols, and a garden bar as well as large deckchairs to sit back on and watch the scullers and coxes go past. There are food vans selling delicious burgers and a bar for Pimms and Aperol Spritz for the perfect sundown chill.
As the sun goes down, the DJ mixes a steady beat under the canvas as the last races of the day finish. Revellers flock inside the tent, where VIP parties begin. The Champagne is flowing, a £700 bottle of vodka has just been ordered as well as various mixers. The atmosphere is electric as more and more people fill the dance floor. Everyone is here to party, dance and enjoy the house music as they clink champagne.
Henley Nightlife
On the way back down the river, the pubs are buzzing. Handsome men in pinstriped suits queue outside The Angel on the Bridge as their ladies sit on the riverbank enjoying the views. This grade II listed drinking hole dates to 1728 and is one of the most photographed and painted pubs in England. It is the only pub in town to stand on the river. In the town itself, there are many more bars and restaurants to discover including The Old Bell, where Charles I drank.
Another way to experience Henley is on the prestigious Hobbs of Henley boat tour. Crockers Henley has teamed with Hobbs to offer a unique stay, dine, and river experience. The package allows one to check in at the quarters into one of their luxurious rooms and enjoy a gourmet experience at the chefs table combined with a river trip on a luxury launch. You can enjoy a relaxing trip along the river Thames whilst enjoying a bottle of something bubbly then moor back at the Hobbs boatyard before returning to Crockers for a ‘g and t’ before dinner.
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" Henley Royal Regatta is the essence of an English social event, attended by the cream of British society and undoubtedly the best-known of its kind in the world"
Where to stay
There are regular trains back to London direct to Paddington. However, if you want a full Henley experience it is recommended to book into one of the premium hotels. Overlooking the majestic River Thames, The Relais Henley is a wonderful place to stay. The Grade II listed heritage building is being fully renovated and restored to its former glory and in keeping with its Royal history under Grace Leo. Offering 40 contemporary character rooms and suites, it is just two minutes from the market square, The Relais Henley is just a five-minute walk from the Henley Railway Station and a short drive to the M4 and M40 motorways, allowing for excellent access to London and the surrounding areas.
Alternatively, book a room at the prestigious Phyllis Court Members Club. Founded in 1906, the hotel is situated in a historical manor dating back to 1301. The Club is on the finish line of the regatta, ensuring front row action during your stay. The 17 individually decorated rooms have complimentary Wi-Fi, a flat-screen TV, an en-suite bathroom, and tea/coffee-making facilities. Most of the rooms overlook the landscaped gardens or the Thames.
Additional accommodation options are the Hotel du Vin in Henley, housed in a historic former brewery. Rooms have rustic, original features, and the beds are dressed in fine Egyptian linen. This is just 50 yards from the beautiful riverside, so it is wonderful for the boating action and the hotel features its own French bistro. Each luxurious room at Hotel du Vin Henley features comfortable hand-sprung mattresses, and deep baths and powerful drench showers in the private bathroom. Guests can relax with a plasma-screen TV in the room. The sophisticated French bistro serves fine cuisine, while the bar offers an extensive and excellent wine list. The walk-in humidor has a rare selection of cigars from around the world. Henley’s historic centre and its market square is just a 10-minute walk away.
Those visiting Henley on Thames will find themselves in an English paradise. It is a desirable place to live. The singer Dusty Springfield once lived in Henley as did Beatle George Harrison and poet George Orwell. Present famous residents of Henley and the villages around include Phillip Schofield and Liam Gallagher. Orlando Bloom also has a property in the town, while famous former MPs for the town include Michael Heseltine and Boris Johnson. Indeed, it has been voted the best place to live in the English countryside by the Times. In the town, one will find scores of designer shops with the latest fashions and art galleries galore. There is also a dedicated Henley Rowing Museum to keep the whole family entertained and St Mary’s is a wonderful attraction to see whilst in the area too. Visiting at any time of the year is recommended but summer is particularly charming.
While in town, extend your stay to enjoy the renowned Henley Festival that follows the regatta. There’s also the Rewind Festival, but of all the social occasions this town is famous for The Henley Royal Regatta is the social occasion of the year that one simply must attend.
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