Hawaii is an eternally popular destination, and yet capital city Honolulu had been regarded as more of a gateway to paradise than the main destination. As sprawling Waikiki resorts, large international hospitality chains, and the city’s urban expanse appeared to contradict what Hawaii represented in the public consciousness, it was not surprising that some travelers were drawn to the other islands with their quieter settings, expansive golf courses, romantic beachfront restaurants, and secluded spas. However, Honolulu is primed for rediscovery, thanks to independently-owned hotels such as Halepuna Waikiki by Halekulani, recently retrofitted for 21st century guests without compromising the ways the aloha spirit has expressed itself within the Honolulu lifestyle.

Halepuna’s 2021 reopening coincided with an emergence of a new generation of travelers actively seeking “city break” vacations where they could explore emerging neighborhoods and enclaves, a well-rounded food scene (from white tablecloth experiences to innovative cocktail bars and food truck parks), world class museums, and cultural sites in unexpected places.

Halepuna is walking distance to Waikiki Beach and Royal Hawaiian Center (noted for its unique-to-Hawaii boutiques as well as outposts of Fendi, Hermes, Harry Winston, and others), it also offers easy access to natural and historic wonders with a variety of guest perks prompting visitors to get off the beach from time to time.

All guests get free admission to the Honolulu Museum of Art and the Bishop Museum by showing their room key at the ticket desk of the museums. While the former is dedicated to Hawaii’s natural history, and the latter displays paintings and sculptures from noted artists around the world, both building are also historically significant.

Best-sellers include a reinvention of the traditional “laulau” plate with pork and butterfish arranged on a bed of coconut-stewed luau leaves; Char Siu Coconut Baby Back Ribs; and a “Skizza” flatbread that gives an island twist to the Margherita pizza. The Yellow Umbrella, one of the newer cocktails, is tailored for more cosmopolitan palates with Lilikoi Juice, Coconut Matcha Syrup, Tequila and Mezcal.

Beyond the Beach

At the Royal Hawaiian Center, minutes from Halepuna’s Kalakaua Avenue side entrance, Island Vintage Wine Bar (a favorite of former president Barak Obama) streamlined menu of home-grown and globally-influenced Hawaiian appetizers, share plates, poke, and sandwiches. About 40 selections curated by wine director Mark Cartland (a veteran of Los Angeles’ and San Diego’s restaurant scenes) are available, served in cuvenee dispensers perfect for sampling, or by the glass, bottle, or flights. Local craft beer, hard cider, sake, and a full bar completes this bonafide local favorite. The center is also home to an outpost of the New York City-born Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, with undeniably Hawaiian riffs on its classic formula and a branch of TsuruTonTan, originating from Japan’s Kanto and Kansai prefectures and known for its refined take on udon dishes and soups.

Avid urban explorers will appreciate that city’s buzziest neighborhoods are just a short bus ride or Uber away. Nuuanu Avenue, running through Oahu’s Chinatown, has evolved over the past two decades into one of the city’s definitive cocktail bar and nightlife hubs. The area has been further refined and spiced up with art galleries, quirky shops, and contemporary dining options which can be enjoyed by day. Nearby North Beretania Street is perhaps the most pan-Asian of Chinatowns in the U.S., as many of its business owners are Japanese, Malaysian, Korean, Filipino, and Vietnamese ancestry.  Although the 15-block area had been rebuilt a few times due to fires and other calamities, their impact on Oahu’s cultural scene can be felt through the neighborhood’s Buddhist shrines.

Other arty high-concept retail/dining areas include the SALT Complex, made up of industrial buildings repurposed into coffee bars, surf shops, restaurants, a record store, nightlife venues, and a space where fleas showcasing local artists and designers are periodically staged. South Shore Market is another place to find goods and specialty treats that are proudly Oahu- and Hawaii-made. To escape from shopping and see what living local is truly like, do a jog or bike ride along Ala Wai Boulevard, named for a man-made canal that runs parallel to it a half-mile north of Waikiki Beach. Along with nicely-paved paths, you get great views the ocean and the mountains, minus beach crowds and heavy traffic.

Hawaii is still synonymous with “paradise,” thanks to its beaches, flora, fauna, year-long summer climate, and laid back culture. What’s there not to love about sun, fun, a compelling history, colorful clothing, the surf scene, and perfect weather? Although Halepuna by Halekulani is the newest addition to Waikiki Beach’s urban paradise, it builds upon the legend established by Halekulani during the 20th century even as it reveals that what defines sophistication in Honolulu and Waikiki has come a long way.