By India Gustin
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“There comes a time in every rightly constructed boy’s life when he has a raging desire to go somewhere and dig for hidden treasure.” Mark Twain’s quote can relate to numerous different events in life, literally and figuratively. In this particular case, this ‘raging desire’ is prompted by the need to go above and beyond what we refer to as luxury. The hidden treasure, on the other hand, can be found just outside of Marrakech’s old town. In a quiet area, through empty streets and around luscious trees and bushes, lies Ezzahra Estate. Through the gaps of the walled-off gardens, it is easy to see that the line between exclusive and indescribable luxury has been crossed. Guests can enter without a single thought in their head, reassured that everything within the property is carefully planned for. From the private chefs to the full-time beauty therapists, it is all made just that much better knowing that there are no other guests around to rejoice in the services. As best described by the owner of the property: “It is like being in your own hotel, without other guests.”

Ezzahra Estate lies in the nearby Palmorie neighbourhood, among the rest of the gated properties. It sports five all-inclusive villas, each with their own pool. A multitude of services follow; all three meals cooked by a private chef, personal beauty therapists (yes, guests can enjoy massages all day, everyday if they wish to do so), an exercise room, a paddle tennis court, a billiard room, media room, hammam and spa treatments, table tennis, a guided tour of the Marrakech Medina and souks…run out of breath yet?

Ezzahra — Arabic for ‘Orange Blossom’ — is the largest of the villas, boasting seven large ensuite bedrooms, some of which have open fireplaces. Alkhozama is a two bedroom property, both ensuite. It is surrounded by ancient olive trees and was designed by one of Morocco’s most renowned architects, Karim el Achak. Arabic for ‘olive’, Villa Azzaytouna has three ensuite rooms. The owner of the entire affair, Brian Callaghan, refers to this villa as one of his favourites given the water detail which is incorporated with the design. Last but not least is Azeer, the newest addition to this extravagant collection.

It started out quite innocently. After having fallen in love with the red city, Brian together with his wife Shirley, bought the land on which the Estate sits on in 1990. Having owned the Caleta Hotel in Gibraltar, the dynamic duo had some tricks up their sleeve to transform the area into an ultra-private holiday destination. They spend their time between Morocco and Gibraltar, where Shirley is originally from. “And occasionally Spain,” they add. They started to simultaneously work between Gibraltar and Morocco. In doing so, they started the decade-long project that is Ezzahra Estate. Slowly but surely, they consulted, planned, designed and built each individual villa currently on the land. It started out with the Pavilion, a cosy two-sleeper villa which housed the Callaghans as they continued to realise the rest of the properties. Now, it is the setting of an array of special occasions, made even more memorable by the estate’s extreme level of luxury and service. 

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"Whatever you don’t see, you ask for."

A sudden left turn brings you to a quiet haven, with wider streets and a distinct sense of relief. There are no car horns, and little to no vehicles driving down the roads. Coming from the organised chaos that is Marrakech traffic, the difference in atmosphere is almost intimidating. Tall walls and fence gates line the Palmorie as the taxi approaches Ezzahra Estate. It is very private. Stepping down from the car, a sense of tranquility settles over the area. Apart from a few birds chirping away, there is no noise. 

“I thought you guys were driving here with a car,” Maria, the Estate Manager, says. “If I had known you didn’t have a car, I would have organised a private transfer for you,” she continues, reciting what the Estate package includes for guests staying here. “Let’s get you settled in and then I’ll give you a tour.” Here, ‘settling down’ doesn’t stop at simply dropping off your bags in the room. Hassan, the Deputy Manager, comes in with a smile, extending a tray of damp towels to use before pouring a glass of the infamous Moroccan mint tea.

It is lunch time at the Estate. Following a classic gazpacho, one of the staff brings out the next dish; tender chicken thighs with a light mushroom-based sauce. A moment of fear, as we had stupidly forgotten to mention that one of us doesn’t eat meat. Brian immediately picks up on our wide-eyed faces, “would you prefer something else?” he politely asks. We explain the situation. “Don’t worry at all, we’ll get the staff to prepare something else immediately.” Not five minutes later, a plate with delicately fried sardines and rice gets brought over. This was the start of an exquisite experience, in more ways than one. 

After an initial wander around the estate with Maria, it is clear that they take their 20,000 square meters of completely natural landscape very seriously. The grass, plants and trees extend left, right and centre. It all envelops the villas, wrapping neatly around the numerous arches and merges neatly with the array of herbs growing on the property. From olive trees, to pomegranate and rosemary bushes, guests are met with all kinds of nature as they zigzag their way around the villas.

When guests book, they get the opportunity to choose the villas they reserve (it has to include the main villa, Ezzahra). This also includes the places where they decide to dine at, the pools and the casual places to hang out in. Overall, everyone has free rein. “With that in mind,” explains Mr. Callaghan, “these big parties can hang out together whilst also being able to go back to their individual villas if they want privacy.” 

After having taken a tour around each and every villa on the property, it is clear that the Callaghans dedicated a lot of time not only on the architecture, but on making sure that each house had its own personality. Dotted around are pieces of furniture and decor, attentively sourced to render the house luxurious whilst simultaneously cosy. Each villa represents a different theme, albeit keeping the decor similar and with the same warm, homely feel. 

Villa Azeer is the smallest out of the villas. This however, should not be taken to mean that it is small in size. It was built with one goal in mind; to make it look as ‘normal’ as possible for those with impaired mobility. Before being explained this by Mr. Callaghan himself, it was just another villa with splendid details and cared-for accessories. However, with further inspection it was clear that the doors were electric, half of the shower could be used by those with impairments and the pool was easily accessible by anyone. Other than that, it just seemed like any other luxurious villa. Rooms extend at the far end, a quaint living room is placed adjacent to the bar and a cobbled corridor leads to the outside area. 

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"To refer to Ezzahra Estate as 'all inclusive' would be a gross understatement."

The two-bedroom project was built in a surprisingly traditional manner. It encompasses what Morocco embodies; mud brick walls, wooden ceilings, motifs from Berber culture and Bejmat flooring. Walking down the cobbled hallway, guests enter the living room, a space which can only be described as luxuriously quaint. When one refers to a cushion being plump and soft, they are describing the couch cushions at Villa Azeer to a T.

A table, mini bar and carefully chosen artwork close the area to give it a homely feel. From there, guests can access the outdoor area, the master bedroom and ensuite bathroom — which is just about the same size as the bedroom. Two shower heads make up the shower and even with a double sink, toilet and bidet there is still enough room to get your steps in for the day.

The spotlight shines on the service that Ezzahra Estate provides. There are 20 members of staff, always smiling and always at your beck and call. In the words of the estate: “We consider them part of our extended family.” From tea being brought to your room to private transfers in and out of the old town, there is nothing that they can’t do. “Whatever you don’t see, you ask for,” adds Brian.  

It is without saying that breakfast, lunch and dinner are all included at Ezzahra. Breakfast is much less formal, where guests can gradually meet up in the morning at one of the previously-decided dining areas. As everyone gradually begins to wake up, rubbing their eyes and politely greeting each other in groggy voices, a nice breeze passes through the terrace. Breakfast has commenced.

It is unclear where to start, the fresh fruit or the muesli and yoghurt. Maybe both. The speed picks up as servers discreetly make their way around the table asking each member of the party what type of eggs they wish for. On the other side, another server passes by with a plate of Moroccan pancakes (Baghrir) and layered flatbread (Msemem) which is topped off with a buttery honey mixture. Fresh orange juice, jams, marmalades and other various honeys are continuously passed around the table. It is an incomparable way to start a relaxing day at the estate, one filled with lounging about and taking short walks around the gardens. 

The evenings feel like a much more grandiose affair. Every night is like getting treated at a five-star restaurant. From the flavourful food to the attentive service, everything is cared for. Plates are brought out individually — made even more personal if anyone has specific dietary needs — where cutlery is replaced upon request and glasses are topped up continuously. 

Given the sheer size of the Estate — and a general rule that only one party can rent out two or more villas at a time — there are numerous places for visitors to choose where they would like to dine. From a long, romantic and candle-lit table in the middle of the fresh grass, to a quaint gathering under one of the many balconies. Just about everything and anything can catered to the individual guests. Visitors may even choose to go all out and organise a special Moroccan-themed evening. As suggested by the Estate, it could be held in the Khaimah (Moroccan-style tent) where Oriental dancers and musicians fill in the blanks throughout the night. 

The food is local and most importantly, seasonal. Say goodbye to year-round fruits as everything is served up naturally ripe and juicy. Herbs are taken from the Estate gardens to ensure the most flavourful fusion of tastes and smells. The cook, Jihad, and her assistant, Zakia, warrant an array of traditional Moroccan dishes including harira, tajines, couscous, pastillas and kefta. Western and European style meals can also be served up which ensure that the younger members of the party remain just as satisfied (adults can also feast on this selection, of course). 

Whilst wandering just off to the side of Villa Ezzahra, guests will come across a room which has a somewhat unassuming staircase leading down. One of the estate’s most precious gems is hidden down there: the massage and treatment rooms. The full-time beauty therapists operate this area, offering a list of spa services for anyone who is interested. A traditional Hammam perhaps. Or maybe a simple full-body massage. Manicures, pedicures and facials are all included as well. Although hairdressing is not part of the package, it can be called on request — just like with anything else at the estate. 

To refer to Ezzahra Estate as ‘all inclusive’ would be a gross understatement. It is one of the only places where one can use the phrase, “I need to turn my brain off” and actually be able to do it. The hedonistic lifestyle which guests can only too quickly get used to is heightened by the pristine service. It is a luxury oasis from a dream, especially if said dream includes lounging by multiple different pools, walking through lush gardens and eating exquisite meals prepared by a private chef. From planned excursions to the nearby Atlas Mountains or a tour of the colourful souks in the Medina, it can all be arranged. The best part? When returning to the estate after one of these field trips, the lanterns will be lit, bottles of wine will be opened and food will be served without a second thought. 

India Gustin

India loves to share worldly experiences in the most authentic way possible. For her, the best way to do this is to seek adventure, appreciate cultures and prioritize storytelling in her work. She intends to recount her experiences through the eyes of curiosity and creativity. Not only does she want to bring the reader along with her, she hopes to inspire them to travel in bona fide.