By Glenn Harris
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Italy has so many gifts to offer the intrepid traveler that it’s hard to figure out which one to unwrap next.  In the Italian Riviera, in a peninsula that juts out into the Ligurian Sea, is where you’ll find one of those gifts. Porto Venere is an idyllic coastal village complete with an old town and picture perfect views into the endless horizon.  There is no access by train and with little parking, it is one of the few places along the sea shielded from mass tourism, especially in the evening when the day visitors leave.  Exploring Porto Venere is an ideal option for the well-heeled traveler and its most fitting place to stay is the Grand Hotel Portovenere.

Exploring Porto Venere

One could say that Porto Venere is the somewhat forgotten sibling of its much more glamorous and sexy sister, Cinque Terre. And for all who have been there, they’ll tell you that it is a good thing.   The destination still offers all the things you love about this part of the world; the cerulean Mediterranean Sea, old towns with winding narrow walkways to get lost in and, of course,  scrumptous Italian seafood.  It’s got all of those things but as mentioned, without the maddening crowds.

You’ll probably appreciate Porto Venere most early in the morning. There’s a crispness in the air as you walk out on your balcony and look out to the sea. This is the golden hour when the sun begins to rise in the east and cast its amber hue over the bay.  At this time, the small town is serene with very little movement as most have not yet risen. You will though see fishermen preparing for the day ahead and a few boats crisscrossing the bay.

This part of the Italian Riviera’s most alluring attribute is the picturesque harbor lined with brightly colored houses that reflect onto the tranquil waters of the bay. There is a small marina lined with fishing boats and a few yachts.  Later in the day, you’ll see the locals out for a walk or enjoying a coffee at a waterfront café and passing the time watching the boats as they come and go.

Just beyond the port is the historic center of Porto Venere which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There you’ll find narrow, winding streets lined with medieval buildings, ancient city walls, fortified gates, and cobblestone paths built during the times when Porto Venere was a strategic military outpost. Today you’ll find its military purpose replaced with tourist offerings from charming shops selling local crafts, quaint cafes serving delicious pastries, and traditional trattorias where you can savor authentic Ligurian cuisine. This is a town best enjoyed on foot where everything you want to see is a relatively short walk away.

One of the town’s most iconic landmarks is the Church of St. Peter. The Gothic-style church is perched dramatically on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea. This marvel of medieval architecture was built in the 13th century on the ruins of an earlier 5th-century structure. Visitors will love its black and white striped facade, distinctive bell tower, and its stunning location which make it one of the most visited landmarks in the area. Inside, the church is simple yet elegant, with beautiful frescoes and a serene atmosphere. You’ll see tourists there on the church’s terrace snapping photos and taking in the panoramic views of the Ligurian Sea and the rugged coastline.

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"Porto Venere is another one of Italy’s gifts to the traveler that you’ll love to unwrap for yourself and see what’s inside."

Another sight to see in Porto Venere is the Doria Castle, a formidable fortress with thick stone walls, towers, and battlements that has stood guard over the town since the 12th century. The castle was built by the powerful Doria family to protect the town from invasions and pirate attacks. Today, it serves as a fascinating historical site and a vantage point offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area.   The climb to the top is well worth the effort, as the panoramic views from the castle are simply spectacular.

The waters of the Ligurian Sea are clear and blue just as you dream about when you think of the Med. There are plenty of places to get lost in, hidden coves to explore, and secluded beaches for sunbathing as well as sublime places to swim, kayak or,  SUP.

Porto Venere is often referred to as the “Bay of Poets” (Golfo dei Poeti).  This picturesque village, known for its dramatic cliffs and beguiling sea views, has long captivated the imagination of poets, writers, and artists.  One of the most prominent figures associated with Porto Venere is the English Romantic poet Lord Byron whose time there is deeply rooted in local lore. He famously swam across the bay from Porto Venere to Lerici to visit his friend and fellow poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.  In recognition of his ties to the town, a grotto in Porto Venere has been named “Byron’s Grotto,” serving as a lasting tribute to his enduring legacy.

Hiking the Cinque Terre Trail
Hiking Cinque Terre Italian Riviera

The aforementioned glamorous sister to Porto Venere is Cinque Terre and boy is she a knockout. Five colorful villages are strung together by a rugged mountain trail that overlooks the Ligurian coastline. It is, in a word, incredible.  Be that as it may, you will not be alone by any means.

From Porto Venere, the first village is about an 18-minute ferry ride away. The villages are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and all offer cobbled streets, colorful row buildings, and quaint boutiques, tourist shops, and cafes.  They also have medieval churches to explore along with beaches along the cove. To call them picturesque would be an understatement.

The Sentiero Azzurro, or Blue Trail, connects all five villages and takes about five or six hours to complete. It is the most scenic hiking trail in Italy where trekkers hike, visit the next village along the trail, and continue. Along the way, hikers will see the terraced vineyards that add to the picturesque landscape of the trail. But don’t be fooled, this is not a stroll, it is a hike up stairs and through undulations along the way but the journey is beyond worthwhile required exertion. The views alone are spectacular let alone the joy of being surrounded by such stunning nature while seeing the coves and rock formations along the coast.

Trekking in Palmaria Island

As mentioned, Cinque Terre is often overrun with tourists. For those looking to hike away from the masses, across the bay from Pontevenere via a 15-minute boat ride is Palmaria Island. Hikers can expect an island crisscrossed with hiking trails and rocky paths that lead through forested areas and coastal cliffs offering stunning vistas of the sea and, the mainland. A great way to explore the island is with a guided hiking tour led by experienced local guides who provide insights into the history, culture, and ecology of the island.

Boating in the Italian Riviera

There is so much to do in the area from hikes, days on the beach, or exploring the old cities. An unmissable experience is to charter a boat for an afternoon.  Typically these private boats are restored fishing vessels, with lacquered wood surfaces and brass fittings, as they were originally constructed over 50 years ago. Today instead of spending time at sea on a fishing mission, they take tourists around for a fun day on the water. Guests onboard see the rugged cliffs, and colorful villages from a different vantage point, or will perhaps go to a private cove for some sun and sea.

One of the highlights of the day trip is to have lunch complete with oysters fresh from the ocean. They are exquisite and taste as if you are eating a piece of the sea. To make the experience complete, guest savor the meal with delicious local wines. For the main course, guests enjoy pasta with mussels cooked before them onboard.  A sunny afternoon at sea spent with friends or loved ones simply does not get much better than this.

Ligurian Wines from Possa Winery

One of the aspects that you’ll love about this part of the world is the wine. Its fresh and crisp taste perfectly complements the local food but you’ll also be impressed by the way it is cultivated. Along the coast, as you’ll see while trekking, are sheer cliffs and rugged terrain that dramatically descend from mountains to the sea.  To think of farming in these conditions would be unfathomable. But that is just what the Ligurians have done over the millennium through terraces carved out of the cliff side and plots of land supported by rock walls. As you pass along the trails you’ll see them from afar. Some terraces are relatively wide while others may only have space for one row of vines.

One family that has been producing wines from this region for generations are the owners of the Possa Winery. The estate is surrounded by breathtaking views of the Ligurian hills and the Mediterranean Sea. As you stroll through the vineyards or relax on the terrace with a glass of wine, you’ll be treated to panoramic vistas that capture the natural beauty of the region.

Possa Winery specializes in producing wines from local grape varieties that are indigenous to the Ligurian region. Among these are Vermentino, Bosco, and Albarola for white wines, and Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo for reds. Their most notable wine is their award-winning Sciacchetrà a dessert wine made from late-harvested grapes, dried on racks to concentrate their sugars, and blended from regional varietals. The wine is known for its complex aromas of dried fruits, honey, and aromatic herbs, with a luscious sweetness balanced by refreshing acidity.

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"The views alone are spectacular let alone the joy of being surrounded by such stunning nature while seeing the coves and rock formations along the coast."

These varietals thrive in the unique microclimate and terroir of Liguria, yielding wines with distinctive flavors and aromas.  The family’s meticulous approach to vineyard management and winemaking results in high-quality wines that have received numerous awards and accolades for their wines, both nationally and internationally.  Visitors to Possa Winery are warmly welcomed into the tasting room, where they can sample a selection of the estate’s finest wines.

A Stay in the Grand Hotel Porto Venere

Sitting on a bluff a few steps away from the old town is where you’ll find the Grand Hotel Porto Venere. As the name implies, this is a grand hotel, regal and refined from the outside and within.  The hotel is situated a stone’s throw away from the old town with commanding views over the bay and coastline.  It is set in a 17th-century building that was originally a Franciscan monastery.  Today the retreat blends modern conveniences with its architectural details from the past, such as arched doorways, vaulted ceilings, and rough stone walls. Indoors the décor is light and fresh with bright colors and a nautical theme as well as exceptional artwork and sculptures by regional artists.

Guest rooms are lavish with elegantly furnished rooms and suites, many with terraces and balconies offering exquisite views over the harbor. The design is modern and fresh with a combination of modern amenities and classic Italian style. The spacious suites offer additional living space and exclusive features like Jacuzzis and separate sitting areas, perfect for those seeking an extra touch of luxury and privacy.

Dining at the Grand Hotel Porto Venere showcases the flavors of Liguria with a mix of modern Mediterranean cuisine. Expect a well-rounded menu of freshly caught seafood, homemade pasta, Ligurian pesto, and other dishes made from seasonal ingredients.

Throughout the day and especially at sunset, you’ll see guests gathering on the expansive outdoor terrace as well taking in the sun and the views of the bay. It’s the ideal place to start the evening with an aperitivo and some delicious cocktails from their talented bar staff.

A stay at the Grand Hotel Porto Venere is an ideal place to take in all that this wonderful region has to offer.

Porto Venere offers an ideal stay along the Italian Riviera. Its main attractions are the sublime Mediterranean Sea with its sun and clear blue waters, and the gorgeous harbor and old town. It’s got the best of what this region offers with access to Cinque Terre yet far enough from the crowds. Porto Venere is another one of Italy’s gifts to the traveler that you’ll love to unwrap for yourself and see what’s inside.

Glenn Harris

Glenn Harris is an accomplished journalist focusing on international travel, fine dining, and luxury lifestyle events. His wanderlust has taken him to over 100 countries where he is constantly straying off the beaten path uncovering new and exotic finds. He particularly enjoys seeking out lesser known travel gems and places to stay, dine, or experiences to capture.