It’s hard to believe that American travelers are not familiar with Madeira beyond the fortified wine bearing its name. However, generations of Europeans and British travelers have thought of it as their equivalent to Hawaii. Like our 50^th state, Europe’s version of an island paradise is shaped by ancient volcanic activity, a mild climate, distinctive foliage, and an interesting convergence of outdoor adventure and culture. Although it is roughly 500 miles from the Moroccan coast, Madeira unquestionably Portguese, evidenced by architecture and cuisine, while also boasting indeilable ties to Great Britain dating back hundreds of years.

This spirit is embodied, by design, through the properties operated by the Savoy Signature Hotel Group. The Savoy Palace, opened in 2019, exudes modern luxury through its sensual water-inspired architecture yet retains several hallmarks of the original Savoy Hotel woven into the interior design of the public areas. It also has going for it several exceptional restaurants, a tastefully luxurious spa and easy access to downtown Funchal. Hiding in plain sight, there’s an emerging “neighborhood” with cool mixology bars pushing the envelope beyond the “Ponche” spots in more touristy parts of town.

In Calheta, thirty minutes west of Funchal, Savoy’s Saccharum Resort & Spa makes a mighty first impression, presenting itself from the road as an extension of the mountain it abuts. The interiors are  filled with a fresh, spare palette of fresh greens, pale beiges and browns, while the exteriors (up to the much-Instagrammed rooftop infinity pool) mimic the steep, terraced cliffs that define Madeira’s unique geography. In public areas, there is a clever repurposing of sugar cane processing plant machine elements, various found objects, and wooden floor carpeting design and upholstery. Together, everything sets the tone for the kind of active and outdoorsy guest it was designed for.

The two properties have in common Madeiran-born interior designer/artist Nini Andrade Silva, whose global reputation is solidified with the Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva, a museum dedicated to her work (ninidesigncentre.com/en) in the heart of Funchal. She teamed up with local firm RH+ Arquitectos to create luxury lodging that delivers a definitive sense of place in both locales.

“My design speaks about my references and memories, not only of my personal history but about the history of Madeira Island,” said Andrade Silva when asked about how she brought the Savoy Palace to life. “This project, an homage to my homeland, brings together a number of standout elements from Madeira’s traditional art, history and culture, (such as the) exuberance of the surrounding landscape, man-made elements like the levadas (old irrigation channels) and tunnels, and traditional arts such as Madeira’s reknowned embroidery, wickerwork and, of course, the production of one of the best fortified wines in the world. These specific features underlie the metamorphosis between the conceptual inspiration and the interior design project.”

The Savoy Palace (Madeira’s only member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ consortium) continues to further distinguish itself as the island’s ultimate luxury property because of the management’s willingness to tweak the formula atop the collaborative foundation set by interior designer Nini Andrade Silva and RH+ Arquitectos. The concept is further enhanced by the Savoy’s “Premium Experience” packages, offered at all its properties, but refined to perfection at this flagship hotel.

There are 200 native plant species evoking Madeira’s lush forests, famed “levada” hiking trails, and botanical gardens (particularly Monte Palace) across the island. The Savoy Premium Experience, in turn, brings greater depth to Madeira stay. “Palace” perks includes easy booking of the larger rooms and suites on top floors with ocean views, exclusive access to quiet breakfasts and snacks in Jacarandá Lounge, a regularly restocked in-suite minibar, premium amenities (Chopard and Guerlain), adults-only private pool area, indoor garage with direct hotel access, unlimited phone privileges and, for those booked in presidential or three-bedroom suites, complimentary transfers to other properties and the airport. There is also unlimited access to its Laurea Spa’s therapeutic water features and steam rooms. Although spa services are extra, they are exclusive to the hotel and inspired by Madeiran culture and terrain.

“Premium Experience” guests also have priority reservations to the three primary fine dining restaurants, devised by award-winning chef Carlos Gonçalves. Galáxia Skyfood & Skybar has the vibe of an 80s disco (as it existed in the former Savoy Hotel), but boasts a tasting menu that carries Madeiran ingredients and techniques well into the 21^st Century. Jacarandá Club transforms into an “izakaya/kaiseki” hybrid later in the week. Its range of Japanese dishes are crafted with Madeira ingredients, resulting in some genre-defying delights.

The recently-opened Pau de Lume, however, is the Palace’s standout. A Josper charcoal oven (lit by matches, inspiring the restaurant’s name) brings a defined Portuguese sensibility to the various share plates, appetizers and entrees. Rice dishes similar to paella (especially a smoky vegetarian variation with eggplant, peppers and sun-dried tomatoes and a zesty lobster version) are menu highlights as are the simple-but-flavorful grilled meats. Other must-try’s include sharable grilled octopus with kimuchi sauce, truffle and yuzu mayonnaise and the dessert kitchen’s variations on a banana trifle and a millefeuille localized with raspberries and fruit from the island.

As Saccharum was originally conceived as an outdoor adventure/wellness-oriented destination, the convergence of industrial chic, tropical elements, and minimalism makes perfect sense. Unique features include the 1419 gallery, which could effectively be an extension to Calheta’s Sugar Cane Museum with displays of century-old photos, machinery parts, and vintage rum bottles. The adjoining lobby bar, even by day, features soft rum-colored lighting emitted from chandeliers made from the (metal parts of rum barrels) which also can be found in its public second floor and eighth floor restaurants.

The posh environment of Laurea Spa at the Savoy Palace is swapped out with straight forward simplicity at the Saccharum’s spa expressed through Andrade Silva’s exploration of Cahleta’s natural and man-made attributes. It clearly appeals to both active men and women who are less likely to book a spa day and instead prefer to spend more time outdoors and then hit the spa for a pre-hike swim, a post-bike ride massage, or a sauna circuit session after a rigorous day on the trails. That said, signature Savoy pampering and luxury can be found where it counts: The superb massages and treatments perfectly executed by the spa’s therapists.

Most suites are compact, but efficiently laid out. Brown chaise seating and a desk are merged together and built into the wall. Sugar cane photography wallpaper, modular storage, and a king sized bed complete the interiors. Over a third of the room’s space is dedicated to its outdoor terrace, not only complimenting Madeira’s unusual landscape, but also allowing for great daytime views and for soothing sounds of the Atlantic Ocean to pour in at night.

Although much of the resort falls into the four-star category and is family-friendly, Saccharum ascends to a five-star experience with the Savoy premium package. With that, this ideally located base camp becomes more like glamping, with full access to private pools only for premium guests as well as access to the private 8^th floor club with made-to-order breakfasts as well as excellent restaurants at neighboring properties. Dining highlight is Trapiche, which features a separate vegetarian and vegan menu with simple, flavorful dishes. Onda Azul, at Savoy’s Calheta Beach Resort across the street, serves a fresh array of traditional Madeiran, Mediterranean and vegetarian dishes along with a nice selection of Madeiran and Portuguese mainland wines.

 

 

 

Those seeking an “eat like a local” experience beyond the hotel are advised to sign up for a Madeira Food on Foot walking tour. Rather than fill participants up on an endless run of food samples, guides dole out an abundance of history and culture at every stop to add context to what is sampled. Founder Jaqueline Freitas and her team are not shy about offering their picks for the best restaurants not included on the tour. Among her Funchal recommendations, Lá Ao Fundo is a perfect departure from the many Portuguese-Madeiran offerings. Chef/owner Jaime Cruz’s menu showcases the flavors of former Portuguese colonies Goa, India and Mozambique and then throws in such inspired twists as a hit of Thai curry. She also pointed to several excellent finds in Calheta, including Manifattura Di Gelato, noted for its exceptional gelato as well as pasta dishes and pizzas.

Madeira Mountain Expeditions, meanwhile, offers 4×4 adventure tours covering the entire island’s varied and unusual terrain and can be tailored for visitors of varying athletic abilities. One of the more relaxed tours includes stops in numerous villages, breathtaking nature-carved selfie spots such as Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela, Porto Moniz Natural Pools, and Cabo Girao’s glass bottomed overhang. The foodie highlight on my tour was a visit to Quinta do Barbusano that shows Madeira’s volcanic soil vineyards have more to offer than fortified dessert wine. A tasting of red and white table wines harmonize beautifully with a simple but satisfying “traditional” meal that includes buttery and garlic-y bolo de caco bread and Espetadas Madeira (a.k.a. steak on a skewer).

Finally, if there’s one can’t-miss Madeira attraction that would appeal to every type of traveler, it would be the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, which is hard to describe but easy to fall in love with. While travel guides list it as a botanical garden, this just scrateches the surface. It incorporates elements of art and natural history museums, as well as exquisitely landscaped trails with varying levels of steepness (meaning, one can get a good workout here). One of the main walkways is adorned with elaborate tile murals that tells the history of Portugal from the Middle Ages forward.

It still takes some effort for travelers to access Madeira from the U.S. (even with the recent introduction of direct flights between New York’s JFK and Madeiran capital Funchal on Azores Airlines, United’s direct flights from Newark and connections through mainland Portugal on TAP Airlines), but Madeira worth the trip because it is a “something for everyone” destination by its nature. And if you’re the type of traveler who wants a bit of everything, go for it.