By Michael Pickup
  • Copy link to share with friends

Although Cape Verde is undoubtedly Africa, its remarkable landscape and bounty of Portuguese influences make these islands hard to define other than beguilingly mysterious and  enthrallingly beautiful. As a group of ten islands floating some four hundred miles off the coast of Senegal, one would hardly expect to find European traditions prominently shape the local culture. And yet, from the reigning sound of traditional Portuguese fado music to a harmonious blend of Portuguese and African cuisine, Cape Verde has magic enough to entirely transport one to numerous countries and back in a single day. Just six hours from the United Kingdom with 350 days of sunshine, year-round temperatures in the mid to high twenties, and striking lunar-like scenery Cape Verde’s Sal is the crown jewel of islands where even the most discerning traveller ought to visit.

The island of Sal, named after its salt pans, is a huge pile of white sand and rock in the Atlantic. Thanks to the surrounding ocean and almost constant winds, an escape to Sal means a cooler and less humid climate than mainland Africa. Virtually nothing grows naturally here apart from a few stunted trees and bushes, meaning everything other than fish is imported, including drinking water. It is this seclusion and detachment from the wider world that makes Sal a vibrant and expansive oasis and it is no wonder that tourism, with its eager clan of pleasure seekers, is the mainstay of the island’s existence.

Its biggest town, Santa Maria, is both lively and colourful and its harbour, founded in 1830 and originally used for the export of salt, is now the centre of a small fishing industry supplying the local hotels. At the last census, it had a population of just over six thousand with a prominent African vibe that comes alive at night with the sound of traditional Portuguese fado music. Whilst most hotels are all-inclusive, the local restaurant scene heavily focuses on seafood and most dishes have an enticing mixture of Portuguese, African and Creole feel to them. A favourite is ‘pastel com diablo’ which roughly translates as ‘the devil in pastry’. It’s a mix of tuna, onions and tomato covered in pastry. For dessert one will probably find goats cheese topped with jam while the grogue, a rum made from sugar cane is the perfect delicacy to end the evening on a sweet note.

"

"Cape Verde cannot be compared to the Caribbean or the Canaries. It’s a unique, tranquil and under-developed destination offering easy access to guaranteed sunshine."

Although the island is largely barren there are a few items worth seeing. A trip to the salt pans may be of interest where, like the Dead Sea, one can float on salt-laden water surrounded by a lunar-type landscape. There are also a number of fascinating birds to look out for, one of which is the black-winged Stilt with its long red legs that trail behind as it flies. The island also has a breeding ground for Caretta turtles which hatch in the summer and the major tour operator and airline serving the island, TUI, has joined up with local organisations through its TUI Turtle Aid to help protect the species.

The rest of the activities are hotel-based. The newly opened Robinson Club hotel is the latest in a chain of twenty-five club hotels from the successful German holiday company. Sal is known for its laid-back style, a place where you can chill out, read a book and relax in the warm sunshine. However, Robinson also caters for more active guests and makes full use of Sal’s huge sandy beaches and regular breezes. Water sports are king here, with windsurfing and kite surfing being two of the main attractions, along with sailing and scuba diving. However, they are not compulsory. The extensive grounds and vast beaches provide plenty of room to relax for those who want a less energetic holiday. A stroll to Santa Maria along the beach or promenade makes for a fascinating excursion.

The hotel is adults-only and all-inclusive with the main restaurant serving in buffet-style a large variety of dishes. At breakfast, there is a huge variety of buns and bread while lunch and dinner offer sparkling and still water to bottles of red, white or rosé white wines! The speciality Tapas restaurant, Pousada, is a local favourite with a menu that offers a range of enticing dishes and guests are encouraged to choose several. The beach bar is popular for sunset drinks and after dark the entertainment centres on the main bar where an open-air disco and an occasional show from talented locals are performed. At the other end of the hotel, the cosy No Hassle bar provides a peaceful setting for a quiet drink and a chat while the spa, mixed saunas and a number of yoga classes on the beach offer an alternative way to unwind for the day.

Cape Verde cannot be compared to the Caribbean or the Canaries. It’s a unique, tranquil and under-developed destination offering easy access to guaranteed sunshine; a great place to relax, re-charge the batteries and, if you feel so inclined, indulge in some great water sports.

Michael Pickup

Mike Pickup is a widely-published travel writer and professionally trained photographer. He covers destinations world-wide as well as ocean and river cruising. His features appear in many newspapers and magazines and he writes for both consumer and travel trade publications.