Tucked between Belgium, France, and Germany, the oft-overlooked Luxembourg is a little country with a big spirit. It is true that it’s significantly smaller than its neighbours in the heart of Western Europe. Yet, the only remaining Grand Duchy is a heaping treasure trove of charm. With its medieval castles and forts, stone-carved underground tunnels, and cobbled bridges traipsing over the Rivers Alzette and Pétrusse, the country’s capital is a real-life fairy tale city.
Situated within Luxembourg City’s UNESCO Heritage Old Town is the Hôtel Le Place d’Armes. The hotel, like the city itself, is an unexpectedly beautiful union of unlikely elements. Combining 18th-century architecture and Art Nouveau décor, it’s the perfect mix of historical allure and modern, off-centre style.
The Hotel Le Place d’Armes’ wish is that guests feel so at home that they forget they’re in a hotel. This ‘Luxembourgish Home’ operates under five core values: Excellence, Attention, Aesthetic, Kindness, and Authenticity. These values are apparent in all that they do.
Before it was the site of the Hôtel Le Place d’Armes, this city-centre location served as the home to a printing house in the 18th century. The structure is in fact a conglomerate of seven independent houses dating back to the Age of Enlightenment. It is therefore no surprise that the boutique hotel has managed to create such a homey atmosphere. Expansive verandas overlooking vibrant courtyards and suspended terraces with skyline views serve to link the disparate houses, resulting in one cohesive unit.
As a mark of its excellence, the Hôtel Le Place d’Armes earned an affiliation with the Relais & Chateaux group in 2012. Established in 1954, Relais & Chateaux is an association of independently operated hotels considered the crème-de-la-crème of the hospitality world. Thus, inclusion in their association is a concrete marker of belonging to the absolute upper echelon of hotels.
Like the buildings that comprise it, each of the 28 rooms within the Hotel Le Place d’Armes is unique unto itself. There are 16 standard rooms, (although the name is misleading, since these rooms are anything but ‘standard’) and 12 suites spread throughout the seven conjoining buildings. Each room has its own fingerprint, with special details and inimitable character. Yet every room is united through the quality of sumptuous luxury.
The Cristal Suite, for example, exudes Grand Siècle splendour. The King-sized bed is topped with velvety golden pillows, complementing the tasteful gold accents of the décor. Crystals drip down from the chandelier, catching and refracting soft light in a myriad of colours. In a separate living room, the act of lounging on the couch or lying in a chair is elevated. Guests can drape themselves across silvery velvet cushions or sit supported by golden gilded back and armrests. With 24/7 room service, one can bask in the palatial setting all day without ever needing to leave.
The other rooms are equally grandiose and playful, but in different ways. Junior and Executive Suites offer a variety of unique personalities. Perhaps the atmosphere will be reminiscent of regal relaxation, with a suite accented with the deep purple colour of royalty. Other rooms, with exposed wood beams accented by mint-coloured baseboards, create the feel of staying in a fairy tale cottage.
Hotel le Place d’Armes also plays host to three first-class restaurants and a lavish cocktail bar. For a meal worthy of Dukes and Duchesses, La Cristallerie is the place to go. This gourmet restaurant is headed by chef Fabrice Salvador, whose menus changed based on what is in season. Following the rhythm of the earth’s different phases, the cuisine is at the whim of the changing of the times. In late autumn, diners can expect a melt-in-your-mouth grilled foie gras with Soissons white beans and an earthy Crau Hay broth. For dessert, the Pear and Fir Tree soufflé is a taste of winter.
‘Le Plëss’ is the hotel’s classic rotisserie, serving only the highest quality cuts prepared homestyle. Red Label Farm chicken is served with a creamy potato mousseline and drizzled with a nutty morel sauce. The ultimate fresh catch of the day comes from l’Île d’Yeu and is accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a lemony beurre blanc sauce.
For a slightly more casual but still just as cosy ambiance, Bistro Café de Paris is the answer. Their large outdoor patio is a premium place for enjoying morning coffee in the sun. The fare here is simpler, but still of exceptional quality. A classic tagliatelle, for example, is elevated with Brumale black truffle and parmesan. In the evenings, this homey restaurant is transformed. Serving tapas along with a wide selection of alcoholic beverages, the place takes on new life to the soundtrack of house music.
At the end of a busy day enjoying the surrounding the fairy tale city that is Luxembourg’s capital, enjoying a cocktail at ‘Le 18’ is the perfect way to unwind. Jazz music drifts out into the elegant atmosphere and carefully crafted drinks flow.
Their signature drink, the 1867, is crafted with a warming rum from Barbados, sugar cane sweetened Velvet Falernum, sparkling Luxembourgish Crémant Mathes, and the sweet and citrusy combination of honey and lime. If seeking something totally unique, the barmen will create personalised cocktails especially for you.
Situated in the centre of the fairy tale city, Hotel Le Place d’Armes is in an ideal spot to explore Luxembourg’s capital. Luxembourg City is an amalgamation of different cultures, customs, and languages, ideal for the culturally curious traveller.
Only a few steps away from the hotel of the same name is the actual Place d’Armes, a paved city square dating back to the 17th century. While the French troops of Louis XIV once marched within the historic plaza, today it is used to very different ends. In the winter season, this open-air-square plays host to a lively Christmas market where music fills the air and chalets offer warm melty raclette. In the summer, the area also known as ‘Parlour of the City’ is bustling with people who have gathered for concerts in the outdoor kiosk or luxury shopping in the surrounding boutiques.
Also just outside the doorstep of Hotel Le Place d’Armes is the Palais Grand-Ducal, the town residence of Luxembourg’s Grand Duke. The palace, built in 1572, boasts an impressive façade in the 16th century Flemish Renaissance style. With its spiralling turrets and wrought-iron balconies gilded with gold, it is easy to imagine medieval princesses waltzing through the palace’s grand rooms or a dragon coiled around its spires.
At the edge of the green Luxembourg Gardens, the must-see Casemates de la Pétrusse consist of the preserved fortifications of Luxembourg City. In certain months, visitors can explore these concealed stone chambers, feeling the air cool and the natural light fade as they disappear into the remnants of the former sanctuaries.
From the authentic 18th century period touches in the rooms to the excellent quality cuisine prepared in each of its three restaurants, the Hotel le Place d’Armes acts as the standard for all other boutique luxury hotels in Luxembourg. The surrounding Luxembourg City will transport you back in time and place to a fairy tale city. Thus, a stay here is nothing short of magical.