It is not uncommon to presume Chinese cuisine as one best served in front of the television on a Friday evening when cooking seems too much of a chore. In plastic containers, rich syrupy sauces drown slithers of pork and beef served up alongside lukewarm fried rice – comfort food at its best. Yet, the top-notch dishes of A. Wong London are anything but humble, and certainly not to be reserved for lazy Friday nights spent at home. In the centre of a round table are ten sharing plates, an array of glossy main dishes of fresh slices of meat, rice noodles and tofu, paired with water chestnuts and tangy pickled carrots – fresh, sublime and anything but ordinary.

On an unassuming street located near London’s hectic Victoria train station is the contemporary wonderland of Chinese cuisine, restaurant A. Wong.  In a unique and completely informal setting, upmarket dim sum is served up with intricate toppings of pickled ginger, finely sliced shallots and lightly poached tapioca pearls. Andrew Wong offers up an interesting mix of authentic regional cuisine with a modern twist, adding his own flair and take on traditional foods of a country that holds many secrets, most of its nooks and crannies unknown to the rest of the world.

Andrew Wong is the Chef Patron of restaurant A. Wong. Inspired by his travels around China, he decided to dedicate his meticulous skill of cookery to create awe-inspiring dishes that reflected the diverse regions of China. Andrew is a humble man, and he talks often about how he “fell into” cooking after applying to cooking school as a joke after finishing college. Well, that “joke” that he conveniently “fell into” has paid off – and his respectable love for Chinese culture and cuisine has awarded him two Michelin-stars – a first for Chinese cuisine located outside of Asia.

Andrew’s parents, Albert and Annie ran the eatery as a Cantonese-style Chinese restaurant, which is a classic form of Chinese cuisine that was imported into the United Kingdom. After the passing of his father, Andrew began to take cooking more seriously, enrolling in Westminster Kingsway College, where he nurtured his love for the marriage between food and culture. He then went on to spend six months touring the regions of China, uncovering incredible authentic cuisines.

Andrew is continuing this effort working alongside anthropologists to resurface historical foods of China that have been lost over the years. The product of his love for food, cooking and culture is the restaurant his parents once owned, refurbished and aptly called “A. Wong” – not for himself, but in memoriam of his parents.

The refurbishment meant for Andrew a fresh start. There are plush velvety chairs tucked under polished wooden tables in an intimate but informal setting. Some guests sit on high stools at the bar, chatting over shared plates of Andrew’s “smacked” cucumber with trout roe. Warm, brown hues blended with emerald and gold detailing make for stylish, cosy ambiance. Intricate Chinese artworks hang amongst gold painted details on the wall façade and white orchid flowers, the centrepiece of the larger tables that are perfect for groups.

There are several menu variations at A. Wong and dining at different times of the day offer up different specialities. The consistent promise of the food at A. Wong is that it provides a multi-sensory journey through China, full of diversity and richness and in honour of the fourteen international borders that create such unique cuisine and culture.

During the day, guests can enjoy from two menus of exquisite and refined dim sum options. This is no ordinary soup dumpling, though – prepare to be wowed, as you’ll be spending the lunch just nodding in appreciation, “mmm” being the only available exclamation of joy between flavoursome mouthfuls.

The first menu is the “Dim Sim Lunch” where Andrew sticks to his roots and refines classic sharing plates into elegant dishes worthy of writing home about. The steamed duck yolk custard bun oozes – literally – of flavour, and the Shanghai steamed dumpling comes infused with vinegar dip and topped with small, orange tapioca balls.

The second lunch-time menu is the “Touch of The Heart” experience, which is a set menu showcasing Andrew’s favourite dim sum dishes that he believes best reflect both his style of cooking and the origin of the dish. The Rabbit and Carrot glutinous puff sounds ambiguous at best – and sure enough, when it is set down, it looks of two large carrots on a plate which is in fact puffed rice balls filled with rich rabbit and carrot filling, utterly incredible and true wizardry on the plate.

The evenings at A. Wong also provide two menu options – again, an A La Carte and Set Menu dining option. The dim sum makes way instead for larger sharing plates, sizzling and sensational. The star of the show and certainly the best way to sample all the incredible cookery that Andrew has on offer is the “Evening Taste of China” set menu. It consists of fourteen incredible courses, all unique to the provinces of China but with a modern twist, like shavings of truffle or Foie gras.

Combining the regions of Shaanxi and Xinjiang, A. Wong pulls out all the stops with a Chinese take on a pulled lamb burger and pomegranate salad. In Xinjiang, pomegranates are aplenty and have featured throughout regional historical cuisine and art – and the dish is a subtle nod to those humble roots, transporting the diner to the markets of Kashgar. The dishes are small in size but pack a punch – and there’s plenty of them to work through. Soft, tender meats are topped with crunchy nuts and noodles and each plate tells a story. The fourteen courses of the “Evening Taste of China” take approximately three hours to complete, so come hungry and prepared to be taken on a culinary journey.

A love for culture and food has provided Andrew with a passion that he translates to every dish served at A. Wong – a passion that he gracefully has shared with the world. Each bite tells a unique story, and when taken altogether becomes a tasting journey through Chinese cooking which Andrew promises to deliver. The skilled cookery of A. Wong brings Chinese cuisine to life, in a refined and well-received manner. There’s no wonder A. Wong is always fully booked months in advance…