A towering fortress looks out from the hillside across the rust-coloured roofs of the city. Cobbled streets traverse the land and steer visitors through ancient walkways framed by pastel landmarks and stone statues. A dappled river wends gently through the centre, past the colourful umbrellas of waterfront eateries and under the angled arches of the Triple Bridge. Ljubljana is a magical city with all to discover.
Previously bypassed by the popularity of other European destinations, Slovenia is finally receiving the attention it deserves and was ranked as a ‘top country’ in Lonely Planet’s Best of Travel 2022. This is no surprise considering the country’s rich cultural heritage, verdant landscapes and diverse culinary scene. Capital city Ljubljana is dubbed the Dragon City for its powerful emblem and myriad architectural depictions of the creature and for those with only a short amount of time to visit the country, holds the key to all these components. Whether you want to taste a traditional dish, embark on an outdoor adventure, marvel at architectural wonders, or discover fascinating history, there is all to discover in Ljubljana.
It is impossible to truly understand Ljubljana’s heritage without first sampling some of the city’s cuisine. There is an array of quality restaurants in and around the capital – many boasting coveted awards and accolades – but three in particular stand out. First is Gostilna AS, which has been recognised by the inspectors at Michelin. Gostilna AS is a cornerstone of Ljubljana’s culinary scene and rightly so. Located at the cobbled heart of Ljubljana’s central streets, Gostilna AS features an expansive outdoor terrace from which guests can enjoy striking views of Ljubljana Castle. But, of course, it is the food that is the real treasure here. From pappardelle with venison ragù and light herbs to Slovenian beef with creamy green pepper sauce, Gostilna AS is defined by traditional dishes with a creative twist.
Valvas’or – named after famed historian Janez Vajkard Valvazor who was born across the street – should be high on your list. A charming traditional tavern enhanced by modern design offers an atmosphere full of history and character in which to enjoy a Michelin-starred dish. The tasting menu features playful plates such as marinated octopus in lime juice, and cuttlefish spaghetti with artichokes. Much like many restaurants in Ljubljana, Valvas’or is inspired by the produce of the Adriatic. Last, but certainly not least (and boasting yet another Michelin star) is Ljubljana Castle’s Restavracija Strelec. This is both a historical and gastronomical delight considering the restaurant’s location within the ancient Archer’s Tower. Framed by the panoramic backdrop of the city below, guests can enjoy chef Igor Jagodic’s renowned cuisine including lamb with aubergine and sumac as well as trout with citrus, macadamia nuts and trout roe.
Ljubljana has a rich history that can be explored through a number of cultural activities. Perhaps the city’s most famous attraction is Ljubljana Castle. The impressive fortress commands the area from atop a hill and has looked out across the urban landscape for more than 900 years. To get there, visitors can choose to take a short funicular ride or instead embark on a leisurely stroll up the hill. Both options will certainly provide excellent views of the city even before you reach the impressive Outlook Tower. Inside, Ljubljana Castle offers educational and inspiring activities including the Exhibition of Slovenian History, the Puppet Museum, pop-up art installations and, in the summer, an outdoor movie experience aptly named Film under the Stars. Visitors can also enjoy an on-site café, wine bar, and the Michelin-starred Restavracija Strelec.
Having looked out over Tivoli Park from the heights of Ljubljana Castle, visitors should consider exploring the city’s largest green space and certainly its most tranquil. Designed in 1813 by Frenchman Jean Blanchard, the park has long since been a social hub of relaxation, enjoyment and education. The expansive green lawns play host to school sports sessions, peaceful picnics, running races and cultural exhibitions, and the historic Tivoli Mansion showcases memorable works as part of the International Centre of Graphic Arts. Tivoli Park is a popular way to escape the bustle and noise of the capital. Equally worth a trip is Prešeren Square; bordered by traditional coloured buildings and myriad stone statues, the square is steeped in history as well as beauty. It is named after the famous Slovenian poet, France Prešeren, a monument of whom has proudly stood since 1905. Nearby, visitors can find the striking Triple Bridge and Franciscan Church.
It would be impossible to discover all that Ljubljana has to offer in a single day; at least three would be a good start. Zlata Ladjica is a boutique hotel just steps away from the meandering Ljubljanica River. The tranquil retreat can be found within a skillfully restored house that champions the history of the building and its surroundings. The tasteful rooms honour those that lived within their walls, for instance, Cobbler’s Room pays homage to a group of shoemakers that once had their home here. This is not to say that Zlata Ladjica shies away from modernity; the hotel offers all the amenities expected of a luxury stay including private access to the peaceful wellness facilities. The hideaway also showcases traditional Slovenian cuisine in its own fine-dining restaurant.
Grand Hotel Union was built in 1905 and has become somewhat of an architectural icon of Ljubljana. Guests can enjoy the elegant Art Nouveau décor that runs through every room. Bright colours characterise the spacious rooms and verdant plants and artwork add character. Grand Hotel Union’s bedrooms are… grand, but not over the top, with woven rugs offsetting the brilliance of some of the more ornate décor. Guests can make the most of the hotel’s wellness area that includes a fitness suite, indoor and rooftop pools and, of course, a host of massage and beauty treatments. Grand Hotel Union offers a sumptuous culinary experience across its different restaurants and cafés.
The InterContinental Ljubljana looks out across the city’s Old Town and certainly lives up to the brand’s reputation for luxury stays. InterContinental Ljubljana’s rooms and suites set the tone for comfort and sophistication, with walk-in showers and luxurious furnishings. The Serenity Spa extends this tranquil feeling to the 18th floor where guests can discover a sauna, steam bath and zero-edge indoor pool with stunning views of the city. The rooftop B-Restaurant offers a chic dining experience that presents creative cuisine distinguished by local ingredients and contemporary flair.
Whether you are limited to a few days in Ljubljana or have a little more time on your hands, it is worth considering a day trip from the city to discover more of what Slovenia has to offer. The country’s great lakes – Bled and Bohinj – where the dappled water gently rocks the small boats on a surface that stretches to faraway banks. Both lakes are within reach of the city via car or public transport and are certainly worth a visit. Elsewhere, the Primorska region is a coastal province widely known for its wine and striking views. Wineries here are some of the best in the country and have often taken influence from Italy, which is just a stone’s throw away. Visitors to the region can discover historic coastal towns such as Koper and Izola as well as the Skocjan Caves, Vipava Valley and Secovlje Salt Pans.
There’s a certain charm to Ljubljana that, without experiencing the city firsthand, would be difficult to put your finger on. Those who have discovered Slovenia’s capital will tell you that there is a distinctive feeling of comfort and peace that promises a memorable, and relaxing trip. Whether you are visiting for the first time, or you have lived there your whole life, Ljubljana feels like home. With outdoor adventures, plenty of food to enjoy and a history that can be found all around, this is definitely one of Europe’s most impressive city breaks.