‘’Tis sweet to muse in leafy June,

‘’Tis doubly sweet this afternoon,

So I’ll remain to muse and moon

Before the Swan at Streatley!’

— ‘A Streatley Sonata’, John Ashby-Sterry (1886)

Today, those who visit Streatley will find that not much has changed from the idle summers captured in Sterry’s ballads. Set alongside the River Thames, this pretty, pastoral village is part of Berkshire, a county that’s home to actual royalty as well as fictional nobility (Windsor Castle and Downton Abbey’s Highclere Castle). Charmed by this spirit of aristocracy, the high-society flock to Berkshire in the summer, revelling, as Sterry once did, in the sprawling estates and swathes of sunlit countryside. When in Streatley, they stay at The Swan for a weekend of pleasant sylvan luxuries and romantic waterfront dining.

THE STAR OF STREATLEY: A LUXURIOUS RIVERSIDE RETREAT

The Swan at Streatley has been entirely transformed since its footnote in Sterry’s sonata, from a twee, eight-room coaching inn to a luxurious riverside retreat. Contained within 17 private acres of Berkshire countryside, The Swan makes full use of its stretch of scenery with a riverside terrace, outdoor deck, and manicured lawn (complete with striped deck chairs and garden tables). Guests dine, drink and lounge while enjoying clear views of the River Thames and nearby Goring Bridge. Under the bridge, the river estuary slows to a trickle, providing a poetic resting ground for grooming swans.

The Swan’s centuries by the river has attracted a host of vibrant characters, including a brief stint under the ownership of beloved drag performer and singer Danny La Rue. In the 1970s, it was used largely as a venue for his extravagant parties, where he hosted the likes of Liberace and Shirley Bassey. Since 2015, however, it has existed under the mantle of The Coppa Club. Created by Hugh Osmond, the brand’s signature is its atmosphere, providing an elegant, private clubhouse experience without the members’ fees. The Sixth Coppa Club to launch in the country, The Swan reopened its doors in 2019 after a four year, £12 million renovation.

COUNTRYSIDE CHIC

Staying a night at The Swan is like sleeping in the guest room of your wealthy relative. It’s a luxury, no doubt, but one that still feels comforting and familiar. All 47 rooms are large, light and airy, with wide windows that overlook either the topiaried gardens or the river and surrounding water-meadows. Riverside is the obvious choice, where you’re sure to catch the flitterings of local birdlife, as well as the yachts and colourful canal boats drifting by. If you look to your left, you’ll also spot the slender tresses of the property’s willow tree, underneath which the iconic Magdalen Oxford College Barge is moored (and has been since the early 1980s).

The Swan makes sure every suite feels snug and homely with warm lighting, plush furniture, and quirky domestic touches. Unexpected highlights include the vintage green dial-phone on the bedside table and the cupboard’s clinking assortment of mason jars, generously filled with oatmeal-chocolate cookies and teabags. Their stand-outs are undoubtedly the ground floor rooms, with tented ceilings and private patios separated from the main living space by a stylish set of French doors. With room service a (old-timey) phone call away, guests can indulge in a few aperitifs alfresco, before embarking on the short walk to the hotel’s in-house restaurant for dinner.

TAVOLO FOR TWO?

The Swan’s restaurant is found in a grand conservatory anchored at the river’s edge, bedecked with Bohemian wicker furniture and hanging rattan lampshades. At night, the glass walls become mirrors which reflect the twinkle of strung-up fairy-lights and flickering candles. This romantic waterfront location is complemented by a tempting Italian menu; it’s only right, then, to enjoy it as the Italians do. Turn dinner into the event of the evening and order as many courses as your heart desires.

The Swan’s antipasti is the natural place to begin, a wooden chopping board chock full of delicacies from Northern Italy. Snack on prosciutto di parma, salami, buffalo bocconici and caperberry jam served with a side of warm sourdough bread. All pasta dishes are made fresh in-house with produce famed in the rugged Tuscan region, including rich, velvety buccatini carbonara and aromatic fennel sausage ragu. And for those who decided on the in-room aperitifs — perhaps an affogato for dessert? Finish with a delicious remedy of vanilla ice cream, topped with a double shot of espresso.

Dinner at The Swan is a delight, emulating the coveted Italian experience of slow, intimate dining. It is at breakfast, however, that the restaurant itself shines brightest. East-facing, guests are greeted by the break of day spilling across the restaurant’s cheery tiled floor. While the plates are less adventurous (a selection of artisan pastries, buckwheat pancakes, or a traditional British fry-up), with the sun, the conservatory becomes what it was meant to be. British fare can be savoured alongside the breathtaking tableau of the Berkshire countryside, which leaves little room (or air) to complain.

‘A Streatley Sonata’ belongs to The Lazy Minstrel, a poetry collection that Sterry called ‘idle songs for idle days’. Over a century later, there’s still no better way to describe the feeling of Streatley, or of a stay at The Swan. A languid, luxurious riverside retreat with unparalleled views, first-rate hospitality and delicious Mediterranean dining, it has quickly (and to no surprise) become Streatley’s star attraction.